


' 0 * X 


* * 


*%\ /' “ VV:/,.s **< 

*^4. - •>• < <- f. , ^ A' S 

^ C ,0c „ .-• :«:.._J^ < 4 ^ 

» ** ^ V / - & <*> 

A, jr A “ >” -y o i, ' •<•■"* o y y "*"‘ * T <a 

*> ’" 0 -° % > g' ^ ^- *»«.’ * f 



<0* o * * x & '■'£.■ 

>* *’•*, % *•" V> s'” '« "> 





v9 v * 


1*0 


, 0 N c 

>TS * C ,. C f- 


* Ay tA 

.V> ,A - 

* <V * 



A ^ X c 0 N c * <r b 

^ ^ ^ .J> 


r v\*£ 


A > : C; 

; - ' o x 0o * ^ 


>i * 'A 

' - Vd> ^ « 

« ^ <*- e 

<** 

* * v ' <S J 

v - * ^ G 0> s' r^'t ^ 

•A.' 1 ^ C-'V" - . Y)'^& + v £■ I 1 x • <t ^ -V 

^ V ' '"o 0 ' ; *-±... . v- ^ v* 

,0 O . ty^' i-’ ’ H ' 

- vc # s o' s. %l|\'v^ * = \~ A* " vj >-T7mqa < -a 

^ -V ^ %•• • )J " # ^ J 5 vj'b 1 ^V, c t/ 

"■ ^ ^ ^ **°" C OW * ,0^ 

o{y c#> •"■ © ^c > 







0 » k 


& r y 



k Q 



A ^ ,A 



V <?>' 

\V 


<\ o o "' " s. ■ fA 

v N c» N S 7 o ^ S ' .v 




■v 


" V 


*• <\v <JK „ ^ 

V- ^ -... 

. * O *, 

^ A X C 0 ^ C * 'c 

■t <-> *o > x 

•ji 'A <«■ A 

^ ^ 

--' )> 0 °V. ' J 4 ^ 

* °'? V" ’ ■ v'^>; ^ /; ,..,V'''’ V' *♦•• 

| % % ^ aV * A-’>- '* A , T .; ^ o. * 

^ %• \yj^?s ^ %. : -B * ^ ^ 





Cj^ ^ ^ 

rjs y ' 

' 1 ' * * <« ° ” V si O N c, 7- ',,!' -;U <• y 0 . k 

% a - °o o c % 

-A > < -ST” 'A, ^ N >>■ . . y «*' - i r 

‘ ^ K •' nl' ^ ^ v- ^ v 


\° >■ 


{ ^ r 5^' > 

”■>, * ^0 o t 

0 -\V 'o # 

. vA^ ^ ^ ^ 0 /• w 1 



^ c' * V. ;- >. 

o v c#* v « ‘A 

1 ,\ X ^ , , , , ^ * 0 N 0 ? ^ 
N ' v s L/v'+ > .o^* 


\ 0o v 


^P* «v 

»> X* «p 


> 1 


S\ X 0 N c # % 1 * * s -4° L , 8 C ' 0 . ^ <\ 'o O'- 

^ ■^V\ 1 *?(L ■* 's a*;, -V, / 4 r ^fs, ■* -J 

y = ^ ' .v v k JFm>' <a a x s •• ; W > v 

i, °\i! n t A « :o' * ^ 4 •”• •-:• - .•:•< V- V 6 O Ztx ^ \ 


■n? 0 X * 


^ V> 











, *> c° vc < '~*b ' * ''\ ' .§• c • N ' * J ' U o. 

\ % W* / As', ° <■' * ■%. £ ■- 

+■*- Y = aS^lEI ; ■*'o o' ; -. */ 




_Jft t * o - / ' * « i 

V V *. Y 0 /■ *r> _v s s 







L* << 


v* v ' . ',, V a "° /*.»*.,*% *•” -V 

<v ^' r “ \a / » a® 

k \* ^ v , - - •, *' * ^ /r 

V 

O ^ O v/w; 4 0v v " Vf ] O c> <<* = ' 

♦ c? ' '-AK * «\v ^ » v 

% . ^- N w ,> «S> e» -4 *V^ x ISuIf . ^ flV 


m,\ %<(?' 





;V V'W^V*• - v\ < • S ’••’*'/. 

^ «e 5» * ^ .- ^ ,-v ,\» V . R 3d ^ , . v 



c, x* * 52*®2fc\S* - \. - 

N. - v? Vf- ,J -v *» A v w ,i>. * 

•• /-W * a' ^ x 

«> *,m^\ v / /<sssir<' ° . 0 



<V> ’ o If 

s *o .. <* 


'<y 

V, 5 N 0 

* <" ,0' o 

^ -* r <’ x * -A, 

^ - <" sf* 

a© ,’ "* 7 V l ' 

^ V, v - 

x 


'<■• A A 1 ' „N c % "‘ » '' 4° 



^ y . 







4 

" K k C 0 N c ft 1 

" -f 4 

•f v >^ AN 

- it- 

.0 o 




























WILLIAM IlFTTON E S Q. F.S.A.S.^T. 8 


Published bi/ J. Niche Is .*• Sen, i^NevTiS 04 













































THE 


HISTORY 


OF THE 


wan, 


WHICH CROSSES THE ISLAND OF BRITAIN, 
FROM THE GERMAN OCEAN 
TO THE IRISH SEA. 

I ' 


DESCRIBING 

x 

ITS ANTI ENT STATE, 


AND 

ITS APPEARANCE IN THE YEAR 1801 . 


» V 

By W. HUTTON, F. A. S. S. 

THE SECOND EDITION; WITH CORRECTIONS. 


LONDON: 

PRINTED BY AND FOR NICHOLS, SON, AND BENTLEY, 
RED LION PASSAGE, FLEET-STREET. 

SOLD ALSO BY F. JOLLIE, CARLISLE j W. CHARNLEY, 
NEWCASTLE 5 R. DICKENSON, HEXHAM 3 BEILBY AND CO. 
BIRMINGHAM ) AND J. DREWRY, DERBY. 

1813. 








To JOHN NICHOLS, Esq. 


' Sir, 

e 1 . 

« • r 

I take the liberty, without 
soliciting your consent, to inscribe this 
Work to you. 

Although your laborious and successful 
pen has embraced a County; you will not 
overlook a few mutilated Ditches, and a 
broken Wall. It is characteristic of the 
spreading Oak, to shelter the humble Bush. 

• - * • * *■ A .. * 1 ( • 

Whatever is worthy of remark, will at¬ 
tract your eye. — Though your humanity 
will feel, for the antient animosity, the 
plunder, and murder, upon the Borders of 

a 2 the 


IV 


DEDICATION. 


the two respectable Nations; yet you will 
rejoice, that concord is established along 
the line of the Wall; and that, Instead of 
rancour, robbery, burning, and blood, civi¬ 
lization has not only taken place, but even 
generosity. 

You will also pardon the errors of the 
Work; for you know I was not bred to 
Letters, but, that the Battledore, at an age 
not exceeding six, was the last book I 
used at school. 

I am, Sir, respectfully, 

Your obedient servant, 

WILLIAM HUTTON. 

Birmingham , 

April IS, lsC2. 


ADVERTISEMENT 


TO 

THE SECOND EDITION. 


The kind intentions of my highly-re- 
' spected Friend Mr. Hutton, in presenting 
me with this Work*, were frustrated by 
an unfortunate Accident, which consumed 
all the Copies of it that were then unsold. 
Enough, however, were in the hands of 

the publiek, to establish its character, and 

• - . 

considerably increase the reputation of its 
ingenious Author. 


* See page 253. 


The 




ADVERTISEMENT TO 


t 


VI 


The good opinion I originally enter¬ 
tained of the Work, is so strongly con¬ 
firmed by the unanimous Approbation of 
the various periodical Critics; that I can¬ 
not resist selecting some passages from 
the principal ones: 

“ Singular characters undertake singular ad¬ 
ventures, and relate them in a singular manner. 
We have a case in point before us. A gentle¬ 
man, at the age of 78, takes a pedestrian 
journey of 6 00 miles, with a black wallet and 
an umbrella at his back, to explore the whole 
length of Severus’s Wall, for the purpose of 
ascertaining its present state! Animated by 
the enthusiasm of an Antiquary, the relics of 
this the most stupendous monument of Britain 
might be to him a matter of curiosity ; but 
can an old man render his account of an old 
wall interesting ? Yes. Mr. Hutton, though 
by no means in his c second childhood / is as 
alert and playful as a kitten ; and that reader 
must be saturnine indeed, who can peruse his 
book without being amused. We will not say 
that Nature, after she made Mr. Hutton, 

broken 


THE SECOND EDITION. 


Ml 

c broke the mouldbut we may venture to 
assert that we might stand at Charing Cross, 
and not meet one individual like him. If he 
has oddities, he has much sense and goodness 
of heart blended with them; and he seems to 
have more wit than commonly falls to the 
share of an Antiquary. From the title of his 
work we anticipated no great entertainment: 
but we were agreeably disappointed: and his tour 
to the Roman Wall has afforded us not less 
pleasure than information.—This tour, the 
result of singular enthusiasm in a man of jS, 
will be of use in correcting the errors of writers 
who have copied from each other without exa¬ 
mination. Mr. Hutton supposes that he is the 
only man who has travelled the whole length 
of the wall, and is probably the last who will 
attempt it. The former part of his assertion 
may be true: but it is not unlikely that his 
book may put some other Antiquary on the 
trot; and if this should be the case, we recom¬ 
mend it to him to take a servant, provided 
with the means of excavating the earth near 
the military stations; for it must be remem¬ 
bered that, if Mr. Hutton, considering his age, 
performed wonders, his survey was rapid, and 

merely 


/ 


\ 

vili ADVERTISEMENT TO 

f 

merely superficial. Any farther examination, 
also, should be undertaken without much 
delay; for this Antiquarian Pilgrim states, with 
great indignation and sorrow, that important 
dilapidations are making on the remains of 
this precious relic; and he gives it as his 
opinion, that it has suffered more in the last 
century, than in the fifteen preceding ” 

Monthly Review , March 1806,7?. 269. 

s ■ 

“ Mr. Hutton has often contributed to the 
entertainment of the publick, and is very face¬ 
tious and good-humoured. At the age of 78, 
Mr. Hutton undertook and performed a journey 
of six hundred miles, to see what he laughingly 
calls c a shattered wall,’ but what really is the 
first and most remarkable specimen of Anti¬ 
quity, which our Island has to boast. Camden, 
Horsley, Warburton, and Gough, have all 
treated on the subject; but probably the. pre¬ 
sent Author is the only individual who ever tra- 

* * 

versed the whole length of the wall. His nar¬ 
rative is accompanied by many pleasant anec¬ 
dotes, related in his accustomed tone of vivacity 
and humour; and by eight plates, illustrative of 
the objects of his journey.” 

British Critic , Jan. 1863. 

, “ Various 


THE SECOND EDITION. IX 

u Various circumstances have called off our 
attention from the works of this lively and re¬ 
spectable Veteran, whose f sear and yellow leaf* 
of life is well employed in little excursions, 
which he describes with peculiar spirit and 
naivetd. The Roman Wall seems to have 
haunted Mr. Hutton’s fancy from his early 
years. Not the tomb of Amandas and Amanda 
so filled, of yore, the mind of the facetious, the 
whimsical Yorick: but more happy our Author; 
for he found at least the remains of a wall on 
which to drop a tear, the ruins of another Troy, 
over which he might heave a sigh. This c won¬ 
derful structure—the united work of a com¬ 
mander in chief and two emperors, assisted by 
three powerful armies, and aided by a long se¬ 
ries of years,’ — he at last visited at the age of 
78, having walked 6'00 miles to see a shattered 
ruin. Mr. Hutton blames, with equal justice 
and severity, the usual dry forbidding style of 
the Antiquary. He has pursued a different 
path.—Our Author’s Tour is entertaining in 
many respects, and in some instructive. We 
leave him with regret; but we shall soon re¬ 
join him in his w r ay to North Wales, and again 
accompany him to Scarborough.” 

Critical Review, l804 5 Vol. III. 7?. 187. 

“ The 



X 


ADVERTISEMENT TO 


“ The entertaining, interesting, and novel 
manner which this worthy Veteran adopts in 
his topographical and antiquarian writings* 
must be pleasing to almost every class of rea¬ 
ders. In the Preface to the Present work, we 
discover particular and engaging traits of the 
Author’s mind, and at the same time meet with 
that information on the subject, and on Anti* 
quities in general, which afford us much grati¬ 
fication. Mr. Hutton proceeds to relate some 
historical particulars of this celebrated rampart, 
and discriminates the parts that were erected at 
different periods, and by different generals. 

This part of his work furnishes many interest- 
♦ 

J ng traits of the history and policy of the Ro¬ 
mans, and strikingly characterises the unhappy 
times when plunder, murder, and all the conse¬ 
quent miseries of savage war, conspired to de¬ 
luge the plains with blood.—Mr. Hutton gives 
a description of his journey in tracing the Wall 
from the first station at Segedunum, or the 
Wall’s end, to the eighteenth station, Tunnoce- 
lum, now called Boulness. In this excursion 
he meets with various characters, scenes, and 
incidents, which are related with much £ood- 
humoured quaintness; and the account lie gives 

of 


THE SECOND EDITION. 


XI 


of the present appearance of the works serves 
to gratify our curiosity, and correct some mis¬ 
statements of preceding writers.—The preced¬ 
ing extracts and remarks will enable our rea- 
ders to appreciate the character of the volume 
before us, which on the whole we consider as 
an amusing and interesting portion of topbgra- 
phical history. The lively and cheerful manners 
of the Author captivate the fancy, and we follow 
him through the progress of his journey with 
sympathy and curiosity. The venerable relick 
which attracted his notice excites the latter; 
and we cannot but sympathize with the re¬ 
spectable and amiable Author, who at the age 
of 78, undertook such a c laborious, romantic, 
and quixotic undertaking,’ as he terms it.” 

Aikin’s Annual Review , 1802, p. 46*8. 

“ You never can bring a Wall : — What say you. Bottom ?’* 
“ Some man, or other, must present Wall ?” Shakspeaiie. 

u We have received much pleasure in re¬ 
viewing former topographical works of this 
Writer, who keeps up the ball of curiosity and 
narrative to the last. Some good stories, and 
suitable observations on them, are told of the 
state of the Border, and the debatable ground 
in succeeding times, till the latter was divided 

between 


ADVERTISEMENT TO 


• • 

Xll 

between the two nations in 1549*—At Penrith 
the father and daughter parted—he for the 
Wall, she for the Lakes. Antiquaries as we 
are, we wish they had kept together.” 

“ Thus have 1, Wall, my part discharged so. 

And, being done, thus Wall away doth go.” Shakspeare. 

Mr. Gough, in Gent. Mag. 1S04, p . t> 33 . 


Sanctioned by such respectable autho¬ 
rity, I hesitate not to submit this second 
Edition to the candour of the publick. 

On application to its venerable Author, 
who, at full twenty years beyond the age of 
man, still enjoys his strong mental faculties, 
I was favoured with some material correc¬ 
tions ; accompanied by a letter from his ex¬ 
cellent daughter; which I am permitted to 
prefix to her Father’s work, for the gratifi¬ 
cation of its readers ; who will not be dis¬ 
pleased to see the Portrait of Mr. Hutton, 
introduced as a Frontispiece to the Work. 
Oct. 1, 1813 . J. Nichols. 


THE SECOND EDITION. 


Xlll 


a 


To John Nichols, Esq. 


Dear Sir, 


j Bennet’s Hill , 
June 3, 1813. 


My Father is happy to 
find his c Roman Wall’ possesses such a 
portion of your esteem as to engage you to 
re-print it. He has nothing to add on that 
subject; but I transcribe the copy of a 
letter of my own, written some years ago 
to Mr. Pratt, who requested me to furnish 
him with some particulars of my Father’s 
journey. Though my letter was written 
without any idea of its being published, 
Mr. Pratt thought it contained so faithful 
a pic f ure of my Father, that he asked, and 
obtained, leave to insert it in his ‘ Harvest 
Home.’ This, however, for some reason of 
his own, he declined doing; and it is very 
much at your service, if you think it a 

proper 


I 


\ 

\ 

XIV ADVERTISEMENT TO 

proper appendage to your new edition of 
the ‘ Roman Wall/ My Father says, it tells 
him more of himself than he knew before, 
and has copied it into his Manuscript Life. 

9 . ’ 1 J ( K* 

I am, dear Sir, with great regard, 
Your very grateful and obedient servant, 

Catherine Hutton/’ 

“ To S. S. Pratt, Esq. 

Dear Sir, 

Our summer’s excursion 
in 1801 was ardently wished for by us 

i 

both. My Father’s object was, to see the 
Roman Wall; mine, the Lakes of Cum¬ 
berland and Westmoreland. We talked it 
over, by our fire-side, every evening the 
preceding winter. He always insisted upon 
setting out on foot, and performing as 
much of the journey as he should be able 


in 


THE SECOND EDITION. 


XV 


in the same manner. I made little objec- 
tion to his plan ; reserving myself for a 
grand attack at last. 

When the time drew near, I represented 
to my Father that it was impossible he 
should walk the whole way ; though I 
agreed with him that he could walk a con¬ 
siderable part: the only difference between 
us was, whether he should ride to prevent 
mischief, or after mischief was done. I 
besought him, with tears, to go as far as 
Liverpool in a carriage, and walk after¬ 
wards as he might find it expedient; but 
he was inflexible. All I could obtain was, a 
promise that he would take care of himself. 

I rode on a pillion behind a servant; 
and our mode of travelling was this. My 
Father informed himself at a night how 
he could get out of the house the next 
morning, before the servants were stirring. 

He 


XVI 


ADVERTISEMENT TO 


He rose at four o’clock, walked to the end 
of the next stage, breakfasted, and waited 
for me. I set out at seven ; and, when I 
arrived at the same inn, breakfasted also. 
When my Father had rested two hours, 
he set off again. When my horse had fed 
properly, I followed; passed my Father on 
the road, arrived before him at the next 
inn, and bespoke dinner and beds. 

My Father was so careful not to be put 
out of his regular pace, that he would not 
allow me to walk by his side, either on 
foot or on horseback : not even through a 
town. The only time I ever did walk with 
him was through the street of Warring¬ 
ton ; and then, of my own accord, I kept 
a little behind, that I might not influence 
his step. He chose that pace which was 
the least exertion to him, and never varied 
it. It looked like a saunter; but it was 

j 



\ 


\ 


THE SECOND EDITION. Xvii 

% 

steady, and got over the ground at the rate 
of full two miles and a half in an hour. 

When the horse on which I rode saw 
my Father before him, he neighed, though 
at the distance of a quarter of a mile ; and 
the servant had some trouble to hold him 
in. He once laid the reins upon his neck; 
and he trotted directly up to my Father, 
then stopped, and laid his head on his 
shoulder. 

My Father delivered all his money to 
me before we left home, reserving only a 
few pieces of loose coin, in case he should 
want on the road. I paid all bills; and he 
had nothing to do but walk out of an inn, 
when he found himself sufficiently refreshed. 

My Father was such an enthusiast with 
regard to the Wall , that he turned neither 
to the right or the left, except to gratify 
me with a sight of Liverpool. Winander 
< b Mere 


f 

<; 


XV111 


ADVERTISEMENT TO 


Mere he saw, and Ullswater he saw; be* 
cause they lay under Ills feet; but nothing 
could detain him from his grand object. 

When we had reached Penrith, we took a 
melancholy breakfast, and parted, with a 
tear half suppressed on my Father’s side, 
and tears not to be suppressed on mine. 
He continued his way to Carlisle $ I turned 
westward for Keswick. After a few days 
stay there, I went back to Hest Bank, a 
small sea-bathing place near Lancaster, 
where we had appointed to meet. 

While I remained at Hest Bank, I re¬ 
ceived two scraps of paper, torn from my 
Father’s pocket-book; the first dated from 
Carlisle, July 20; in which he told me he 
was sound in body, shoe, and stocking, 
and had just risen from a lodging among 
fleas. The second from Newcastle, July 23, 
when he informed me “ he had been at the 
Wall’s End; that the weather was so hot 

he 


THE SECOND EDITION. 


XIX 

he was obliged to repose under hedges; 
and that the country was infested with 
thieves : but, lest I should be under any 
apprehensions for his personal safety, he 
added, they were only such as demolished 
his idol, the Wall, by stealing the stones 
of which it was composed.” 

On the fifth morning after my arrival at 
Hest Bank, before I was up, I heard my 
Father cry Hem! on the stairs. I answered 
by calling out Father! which directed him 
to my room; and a most joyful meeting 
ensued. He continued here four days, 
wondered at and respected by the com¬ 
pany. We set out on our return home in 
the same manner as before, and reached it 
in safety. 

During the whole journey I watched my 
Father with a jealous eye. The first symp¬ 
tom of fatigue I observed was at Bud- 
worth, In Cheshire; after he had lost his 

b 2 *vay, 


XX 


ADVERTISEMENT TO 


way, and been six hours upon his legs; 
first In deep sands, and then on pavement 
road. At Liverpool his spirits were good ; 
but I thought his voice rather weaker. At 
Preston he first said he was tired ; but, 
having walked eleven miles farther, to 
Garstang, he found himself recovered ; and 
never after, to the best of my remem¬ 
brance, uttered the least complaint. He 
usually came into an inn in high spirits, 
ate a hearty meal, grew sleepy after it, 
and in two hours was rested. His appe¬ 
tite never forsook him. He regarded 
strong liquors with abhorrence. Porter he 
drank, when he could get it; ale and 
spirits, never. He mixed his wine with 
water; but considered water, alone, as the 
most refreshing beverage. 

On our return, walking through Ash¬ 
ton, a village in Lancashire, a dog flew at 
my Father, and bit his leg ; making a 

wound 


/ 


THE SECOND EDITION. xxi 

wound about the size of a sixpence. I 
found him sitting in the inn at Newton, 
where he had appointed to breakfast, de¬ 
ploring the accident, and dreading its con¬ 
sequences. They were to be dreaded. The 
leg had yet a hundred miles to walk, in 
extreme hot weather. I comforted my Fa¬ 
ther. ‘ Now/ said I, ‘ you will reap the 
fruit of your temperance; you have put no 
strong liquors or high sauces into your 
leg ; you eat but when you are hungry, 
and drink but when you are thirsty; and 
this will enable your leg to carry you 
home/ The event shewed I was right. 
The wound was sore; and the leg, round 
it, was inflamed, as every leg under such 
circumstances must be; but it never w 7 as 
very troublesome, or ever indulged with a 
plaster. 

From the time we parted at Penrith, 
till w 7 e reached home, the weather was ex¬ 
tremely 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


xxii 

tremely hot. My Father frequently walked 
with his waistcoat unbuttoned ; but the 
perspiration was so excessive, that I have 
even felt his coat damp on the outside, 
from the moisture within ; and his bulk 
visibly diminished every day. When we 
arrived at Wolseley Bridge, on our return, 
I was terribly alarmed at this, and thanked 
God he had but one day more to walk. 

When we got within four days of the 
completion of our journey, I could no 
longer restrain my Father. We made 

forced marches; and if we had had a little 

*- 

further to go, the foot would fairly have 
knocked up the horse. The pace he went 
did not even fatigue his shoes. He walked 
the whole six hundred miles in one pair; 
and scarcely made a hole in his stockings. 

I am, dear Sir, 

Your very sincere friend and servant, 

Catherine Hutton.” 


t 


( xxiii ) 


THE AUTHOR’S PREFACE. 


There are few pursuits, in the com¬ 
pass of letters, more dry than that of An¬ 
tiquity. The Antiquary feeds upon wi¬ 
thered husks, which none can relish but 
himself; nor does he seem to possess the 

art of dressing up his dried morsel to suit 

« 

the palate of a reader, for his language is 
often as dry as his subject; as if the smile 
was an enemy to Truth. Mere dull de¬ 
scription, like a burnt cinder, is dead mat¬ 
ter. If he designs a treat , why not infuse 
a little spice to suit the taste of his guest ? 

The description also of Antiquities is not 
only the dullest of all descriptions, but is 

rendered 




XXIV THE author’s PREFACE. 

rendered more dull by abstruse tei’ms; by 
as much Learning as the Author can mus¬ 
ter, and Latin, as the page can conve¬ 
niently hold. Instead of inviting, it rather 
repels a reader. Thus Truth, dressed out 
like a beau, in flourishing trappings, is 
scarcely known ; but would please in a 
plain dress. 

My dear and learned Reader, though I 
treat of the Latins, I have no Latin with 
which I can treat you. My language, 
like myself, will display something of the 
Quaker. 

I would enliven truth with the smile, 
with the anecdote; and, while I travel the 
long and dreary Wall, would have you 
travel with me, though by your own fire¬ 
side; would have you see, and feel, as I 
do; and make the journey influence your 
passions, as mine are influenced. 


The 


\ 

THE AUTHOR'S PREFACE. XXV 

The Antiquary values a piece according 
to its authenticity. A piece of coin, not 
worth a shilling, will bring many times its 
intrinsic worth, when its history is known. 
But, if its Antiquity be ever so great, if the 
history be dark, the value is no more than 
its weight. 

When pieces of Antiquity are common, 
like old clothes, they lose much of their 
consequence. Thus, the coins found at 
Verulam , which I have seen by handfuls, 
are almost rated at nought. 

If the mind is delighted at the sight of 
a watch worn by Charles the First; a 
sword carried through France before Ed¬ 
ward the Third; a spur worn by William 
the Conqueror; or with a Danish battle- 
axe what astonishment must arise at the 
sight of the grandest production of Art in 
the whole Island ! the united work of a 

Com- 


i 


xxvi the author's preface. 

Commander in Chief and two Emperors, 
assisted by three powerful armies, and 
aided by a long series of years ! 

Having had the pleasure of seeing many 
Antiques of various ages and people, it na¬ 
turally excited a desire of proceeding in 
farther research; and the eye, unsatisfied 
with seeing, induced a wish to see the 
greatest of all the curiosities left us by the 
Romans, The Wall , the wonderful and 
• united works of Agricola, Hadrian, and 
Severus. 

I consulted all the Authors I could pro¬ 
cure ; which strengthened desire. But I 
found they were only echoes to each other. 
Many had written upon the subject; but I 
could discover, that very few had even seen 
it, and not a soul had penetrated from one 
end to the other. Besides, if those who 
paid a transient visit chose to ride , they 
could not be minute observers. 


Poor 


the author’s preface, xxvii 


Poor Camden travelled it till he was 
frightened, ran away, and wrote hastily. 
Horsley was weary, and retreated; but 
wrote more correctly. The judicious War- 
burton, whom I regard for his veracity, 
rode on, desisted, and then remarked, 
“ He believed he had trod upon ground 
which no foot had ever trodden since the 
Romans.” He also transcribes Horsley, 
whom Mr. Gough professes to follow. 

I envied the people in the neighbour¬ 
hood of the Wall, though I knew they va¬ 
lued it no more than the soil on which it 
stood. I wished to converse with an in¬ 
telligent resident, but never saw one. 

I determined to spend a month, and 
fifty guineas, in minutely examining the 
relicks of this first of wonders; began to 
form my plan of operations, and wrote my 
sentiments to an eminent Printer in Lon¬ 
don, 


xxviii THE author's PREFACE* 

I 

don, for whom I have a singular regard; 
but, receiving no answer, I gave up the 
design, and, as I thought, for ever; de¬ 
stroyed my remarks; closed with regret all 

* 

my books of intelligence, and never durst 
open them, lest it should revive a strong 
inclination, which I could not gratify. 

About four years elapsed, when my fa¬ 
mily agreed with & gentleman arid his lady 
to visit the Lakes* They enlisted me of 
the party, in which they found no diffi¬ 
culty, because the temptation lay in the 
neighbourhood of that wonder which had 
long engaged my ideas. 

I have given a short sketch of my ap¬ 
proach to this famous Bulwark; have de¬ 
scribed it as it appears in the present day, 
and stated my return. 

Perhaps, I am the first man that ever 
travelled the whole length of this Wall, 

and 


THE AUTHOR’S PREFACE. Xx’lX 
and probably the last that ever will at- 

t 

tempt it. Who then will say, he has, like 
me, travelled it twice ? 

Old people are much inclined to accuse 
youth of their follies ; but on this head 
silence will become me, lest I should be 
asked, “ What can exceed the folly of that 
man, who, at seventy-eight, walked six 
hundred miles to see a shattered Wall !” 

W. H. 

Birmingham, April 13 , 

1802 . 


1 


LIST 



( XXXI ) 


/ 


LIST of PLATES. 

Ml/ ' Page 

I. Portrait of the Author, Frontispiece. 

II. Map of the Roman Wall — 125 

III. Agricola, Hadrian, and Severus’s 

Works — — 138 

IV. View of the Wall at the bottom of 

Benwell Hill — — 144 

V. View at Port Gate — — 15 6 

VI. The Wall at St. Oswald’s — 158 

VII. Profile of the Remains of Severus’s 

Wall — — — I60 

t 

; 

VIII. View at Walwick Chesters -— 164 

IX. Inscription at House Steads — 184 

X. Mountains at Bradley — I85 


BOOKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR, 


1. The History of Birmingham, 8 vo. Qs. 

2. The Journey to London, 12mo. 2s. 6d . 

3. The Court of Requests, 8vo. Js. 

4. History of the Hundred Court, being a 

Supplement to the Court of Requests, Is. 

*5. The History of Blackpool, frequented for 

* ’ *' 

Sea-bathing, 8vo. 2 s. 6d. 

i - 05 

6. The Battle of Bosworth Field, 8 vo. 7 $ ; or 

W * * / J ; • t 

r with a Continuation by Mr. Nichols, 
illustrated with Plates, 1 2s. 

% K % jf 

# 7 * The History of Derby, 8vo. 7 s. 6d. 

*8. The Barbers, a Poem, 8vo. Is. 


*9. Edgar and Elfrida, a Poem, 8vo. Is. 

10. Remarks upon North Wales in sixteen 
Tours, 8vo. 7s. 6d. 

*11. Poems, chiefly Tales, 8vo. 10s. 6d. 

> » . i. i 1 $ 

*12. Tour to Scarborough, 8vo. 7s. 

13. Trip to Coatham, 8vo. 10s. 6d. 


The Miser Married, a Novel. By Catherine 
Hutton. 3 vols. 12mo. 15s. 


f t 

1 1 


THE 


V t * • * 


HISTORY 


* > ‘ * - i . 


■V r* # , , , 


OF THE 


ROMAN WALL, 




&c. 


This first, and most remarkable piece 
of Antiquity in the whole Island, is 
known by several names, some of them 
erroneous. It bore that of Agricola , 
which is now lost. The Piets Wall; 
but this seems inconsistent, for they had 

X mf 

no concern with the Wall, except to pull 
it down; and I think it should rather 
bear the name of the man who built it up. 
Sometimes Hadrians Wall; but I can- 

b not 




2 


HISTORY OF 


not see why a bank of earth should bear 
the name of a TVall . Our idea of a wall 
comprehends all erection of brick or stone* 
Perhaps Hadrian’s Bank would be more 
in character, as agreeing with the mate¬ 
rials of which it is composed. Severus's 
Wall is more proper, because he erected 
the stone wall, part of which is remain¬ 
ing. It is often called The Roman Wall , 

\ 

and, by way of pre-eminence, The Wall . 

That man is born a savage, there needs 
no other proof than Severus’s Wall. It 
characterizes two nations as robbers, and 
murderers. Nineteen in twenty of our 
race sustain half this character during life* 
Some individuals correct the crude pas¬ 
sions, adhere to justice, and avoid what¬ 
ever is worthy of blame. 

The first intentional act of a child is 
an attempt to scratch the eyes of its mo¬ 
ther ; 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


3 


ther; the next, wilfully to disobey orders; 
another, to gripe a young cat round the 
neck, and enjoy with a smile the agonies 
of death ; a fourth, forcibly to take the 
play-things from a boy less than himself, 
and, should the loser complain, toss his 
hat into the street, and kick his posteriors. 
To punish the brute creation opens a wide 
field for ferocity; as, impaling insects, 
winging butterflies, and, if possessed of 
a whip, never to let a dog pass without 
using the lash. 

The next step, as he rises into years, 
is to hunt after property not his own, 
which he tries to acquire by deceit, 
chicane, finesse, and, if he cannot ac¬ 
complish it, would take a pleasure in 
destroying it, that another may not 

possess it. Should pride, or influence, 

prompt him to act fairly, only increase 

B 2 the 


4 


HISTORY OF 


the temptation, and you find the rogue 
Thus nineteen in twenty declare war 
against the creation. 

This Wall is also a clear proof, that 
every species of cruelty that one man 
can practise to another was here, and 
pronounces the human being as much 
a savage as the brute. This place has 
been the scene of more plunder and 
murder, than any part of the Island, of 
equal extent. During four hundred 
years, while the Wall continued a bar¬ 
rier, this was the grand theatre of war, 
as well as during ages after its de¬ 
struction. 

Some learned and worthy men, pry- 
ers into human nature, have contended, 
“ that civilization increases, and that 

7 i 

the world is advancing towards perfec¬ 
tion.”— Light, and knowledge, I allow, 

have 


THE ROMAN WALE. 


have made an amazing progress during 
the last ages ; but that is owing to 
commerce, and the printing press. This, 
however, comes under the word 'polished 
society, not honest . Man may be better 
informed, but not mended ; or why did 
the Spaniards, and Portuguese, in latter 
ages, butcher the natives in South Ame¬ 
rica by millions, and take their property ? 
And why did we, though in a small 
degree, follow their example in the 
North ? 

Perhaps a Scotsman would consider 
this mighty bulwark a compliment paid 
to his country ; and infer, “ it was de¬ 
signed to bar a superiour power, and 
was the effect of fear; for, if two na¬ 
tions could meet upon equal terms, there 
would be no need to [raise a wall between 
them.” 


A Roman 


6 


HISTORY OF 


A Roman would reply, “ Your country 
is mountainous, barren, and difficult to 
conquer. The rough land is your safe-* ^ 
guard, not the people; and the inha¬ 
bitants are so poor, they are not worth 
conquering. On these rests your secu¬ 
rity.” There may be, in both these re¬ 
marks, a wider opening for truth than 
for boasting. 

Our old historians always term the 
Scots JBarharians: to this I assent. 
They surprized the innocent, murdered 
them, laid waste their country, took the 
property, and left the place. Allow me, 
without the aid of Dr. Johnson, to 
illustrate the word Harharian . Julius 
Caesar, Agricola, ‘Antonine, Severus, &c. 
went one step farther than the Scots; 
they surprised, murdered, plundered, and 
kept possession. Our venerable ancestors 

too, 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


7 


too, the Saxons, Danes, and Normans, 
who came over in swarms, butchered, 
robbed, and possessed ; although they 
had no more right than I have to your 
coat. Whoever deprives an unoffending 
man of his right, comes under this word. 
It follows, no war can be justified but that 
of defence. 

It is an old remark, that “ idleness is 
introductive of mischief.” The Piets , 
now Highlanders, confirm this remark. 
Strangers to commerce, to the arts, and, 
from the barrenness of the country, almost 
to agriculture, they led a life of indolence. 
Their chief avocations were hunting, bask¬ 
ing in the sun, procuring fuel from the 
heath, and fish from the water. In some 
of these, the women bore a part. 

Idleness of body promotes idleness of 
mind. They were savage, voracious, do¬ 
mineering, 


8 HISTORY OF 

mineering, except to their chiefs, who 
were as savage as themselves, but to them 
they paid implicit obedience. Servility is 
the attendant upoma mind debased. 

Men thus situated must feel the effects 
of want. Nature and necessity made 
them courageous. At the beck of the 
chief, thev entered the Lowlands, which 
they sometimes robbed; but oftener joined 
the inhabitants in partnership, and pene¬ 
trated the borders between Scotland and 
England; and, when not opposed, killed, 
burnt, and pilfered, at pleasure; then re¬ 
turned, singing in Erse, their native 
tongue. 

While the Britons were supine, or quar¬ 
relling with each other; or while their 
power was withdrawn from the frontiers, 
and employed against other enemies; the 
Scots and Piets made their inroads. Booty 


was 


THE ROMAN WALL. 9 

was the word; but this could not be had 
without blood. 

This astonishing rampart, the produc¬ 
tion of three eminent persons, and at three 
different periods, was designed to remedy 
the mischiefs described. 


AGRICOLA’s WORK. 

WHEN Agricola, the ablest general, 
and most accomplished statesman of the 
age, commanded the Romans in Bri¬ 
tain, he led them into Scotland, in the 
year eighty-four, to punish the depre¬ 
dations of the natives. He found Gal - 
gacus , their general, with an army of 
thirty thousand men, encamped upon 

the 


i 





10 


HISTORY OF 


the Grampian hills, ready to receive 
him. He gave them battle, defeated 
them, and drove them back into the 
Highlands. 

Being master of the country, and 
willing to prevent such evils as had oc- 
curred for ages, he erected what our his¬ 
torians call a TVall^ as a bar against 
the Piets. This was principally a bank 
and a ditch ; on the borders of which 
he built, at unequal distances, a range 
of castles. This work extends from sea 
to sea, about seventy-four miles, begin¬ 
ning three miles and a half East of New¬ 
castle, and ending twelve West of Car¬ 
lisle, which, while guarded, curbed the 
* 

enemy: the spot suited, as being the 
narrowest part of the Island. 


HA- 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


31 


»•» r\ V 


HADRIAN’S WALL, or rather 

WORKS. 

AFTER Agricola’s works had conti- 
nued about thirty-seven years, often in¬ 
jured, as a bank of earth easily might, 
by an enemy constantly upon the watch; 
the Emperor Hadrian, in the year one 
hundred and twenty-one, repaired the 
works of Agricola, and added some of 
his own to strengthen them. These 
were, joining to Agricola’s small ditch, 
which lay towards the North, a large one, 
making a large rampart, and then finish¬ 
ing, as Agricola began, with a small 
ditch; all their works running in parallel 
lines. 


From 




12 


HISTORY OF 


From this time Agricola’s lost its name, 
and the whole to this day has absurdly 
retained that of Hadrians Wall. So 
that what now bears his name, as the 
work of one man, was really the work of 
two. 


• * • ’ • * * * t" 

SEVERUS’s WALL. 

, * / 

THE Northern adventurers were quiet 
while the works were new, and a regular 
defence continued. But, military atten¬ 
tion diminishing, the desire of the Piets 

increased. 

* 

Hunger is said to “ break through 
stone wallsthen what security in walls 
of earth ! It is difficult to keep out an 
enemy, who is determined not to be kept 

out 

i- 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


13 


out. Inroads were quickly made, and for¬ 
mer tragedies acted. No newspapers to 
convey the tidings of the day, no post to 
reveal distant transactions, nor commo¬ 
dious roads to convey either: the unfor¬ 
tunate residents were off their guard \ 
and, had they beSn on, they could not 
have w T arded off the blow. The first in- 

i 

telligence of an approaching enemy ap¬ 
peared to the eye, instead of the ear, and 
he brought destruction, in his hand. 

Upon unprosperous adventures, the 
Piets sued for peace, always obtained 
it, and, to keep them quiet, upon easy 
terms. 

When the unhappy Britons had fluc¬ 
tuated between life and death, eighty- 
seven years after Hadrian’s work was 
completed, Severus was chosen Emperor. 
Two years were spent in reducing his 


enemies 



14 


HISTORY OF 


enemies on the continent, after which 
he came into Britain. 

Penetrating into Scotland, the enemy 
fled where Severus durst not follow ; and 
the Piets exulted, it is said, that their un¬ 
wholesome water, their keen air, their 
bogs, meres, mountains, impenetrable 
woods, and slender sustenance, but par¬ 
ticularly the incessant labour of Seve¬ 
rus’s men, had destroyed fifty thousand 
without a battle. Many skirmishes, 
however, were fought, chiefly in favour 
of the Romans. The Piets solicited 
peace, which was granted upon condi¬ 
tion that they should lay down their 
arms and retire. 

Severus, at rest, considered, that as 
many a fine army might be destroyed in 
reducing a people not worth reducing, 
he had better confine them within their 


own 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


15 


own boundary. To accomplish this, he 
determined, in the year two hundred, to 
repair the works of the two former chiefs, 
injured by time, but more by the enemy, 
and erect a wall of stone, guarded by a 
ditch which should run parallel with 
theirs, and make one grand and compact 
work. Thus every contrivance of man is 
set up against the knavery of man. And 
now the inhabitants of the borders re¬ 
joiced in the prospect of security: instead 
of being plundered by their enemies, they 
would be* protected by their friends, who 
had full power to protect. 

It may seem surprizing, that by the 
erection of these works, the Romans must 
have relinquished to the enemy a vast 
tract of country, extending eighty miles 
North, and in breadth, from the German 
ocean to the Irish sea, about ninety, the 

best 


HISTORY OF 


16 

• I 

best land in Scotland. The human capa¬ 
city is nearly the same in all ages; what¬ 
ever reasons we can find for the conduct of 
the Romans, we may be assured they 
could find for themselves.—They began to 
be apprehensive they should weaken the 
state by extending dominion, a thought 
which ought to strike us. And Severus 
considered, that building the Wall was an 
arduous task; that this was the only place 
where he could shorten the work, the 
shorter the stronger, and the less force 
would guard it ; besides, if the enemy 
were allowed the above fertile lands, fa¬ 
vourable for agriculture, it would lessen 
the temptation to plunder. Graham’s 
Dyke too, or rather the work of Anto¬ 
ninus, between the Frith of Forth and the 

Clyde, was by long neglect far gone in 

* 

• i * 



Another 


t 

THE ROMAN WALL. 1 / 

Another reason which induced him to 
fix here was, its affinity to Hadrian’s 
work, which would strengthen his own ; 
and he well knew, the united efforts of 
human wisdom would be needful to guard 
against inclination and hunger. 

There was no fear of the Romans being 
molested in their operations, for two rea¬ 
sons : they were masters of the country to 
the Frith and Clyde, the above space of 
eighty miles, and the force employed at 
the Wall was an ample security. 

Some authors have seriously disputed, 
lc at which end of the Wall Severus be¬ 
gan.” But this point will clear itself 
when we consider that two Legions were 
employed, the Second, and the Sixth, con¬ 
sisting of about twelve thousand men. A 
plan of the Wall was first determined 
upon, divided into four parts; the Second 

c Legion 


18 


HISTORY OF 


Legion was appointed to the first and 
third parts, beginning in the East; and 
the Sixth Legion, to the second and fourth. 
This is proved by a variety of inscriptions. 
Perhaps every mile, in this long range, 
was begun at the same time. This wa& 
necessary, because the whole isthmus 
would be secured, from one sea to the 
other. 

In all laborious undertakings, the Bri¬ 
tons were pressed into the service, and 
charged with the drudgery. In this case, 
however, where life and property were at 
stake, there was no need of compulsion. 

The Wall was about eight feet thick, 
and twelve high, to the battlements, 
which rose about four more; so that, 
viewed in profile, it would appear much 
like a chair, the main part forming the 
seat, and the embattled part the back. 

, At 


THE ROMAN WALE. 


19 


\ 

At the foot of the Wall, on the North, a 
ditch ran parallel, the dimensions of which 
and the wall I shall give hereafter. 


f ' 


t 



f 




STATIONS. 



i 



ALONG the line of the Wall, the Em¬ 
peror constructed, of stone, three kinds of 
fortification, which were Stations , Castles , 
aud Turrets . The Stations, or Cities, are 
said to have been eighteen in number, 
with seventeen intervals, ranged at un¬ 
equal distances, the average about four 
miles each. These were fortified inclo* 
sures, about one hundred and thirty-six 
yards square, the Wall itself constituting 
the North side. They were designed for 

c 2 residence, 


/ 




20 


HISTORY OP 


/ 


residence, as well as guard, and were ap¬ 
propriated to the same use as our modern 
barracks ; also buildings for family use, 
suitable to various occupations. 

If the cohorts were full, six hundred 
and sixty-six military men were probably 
the lot of each Station.—From this grand 
body of reserve, were supplied the 


CASTLES, 

* 

OF which there were eighty-one, called 
by the country people Mile Castles, be¬ 
cause they were nearly a mile asunder, or 
rather seven furlongs. About four of 
these, on the average, were fixed between 
every Station. They were about ninety- 


\ 


SIX 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


21 


six feet square, the Wall still forming the 
North side. The Stations supplied the 
castles with a guard of perhaps one hun¬ 
dred men each. Every Station com¬ 
manded, on each side of it, about two 
castles. 

As the Stations furnished a guard for 
the castles, they supplied one for the 


TURRETS, 

WHICH were small Castles , Castelets y 
or TVatch Towers y ranged along the Wall, 
at the distance of about three hundred and 
eight yards each; consequently there must 

r 

have been about three hundred and thirty. 
They were twelve feet square: each castle 

commanded 




HISTORY OF 


22 

commanded about ten turrets, five on & 
side, which were daily supplied with a 
guard, probably, of two or tour men each. 

These Turrets being near together, the 
sound of the voice, trumpet, or shell, 
would penetrate the whole length of the 
Wall, if attention was paid, in a short 
time, when danger approached. This 
must have been the completest construc¬ 
tion, for the purpose, ever invented by hu¬ 
man wisdom. And the expence of the 
watch, enormous. 

What length of time these united and 
almost immortal works would cost in fi¬ 
nishing, is impossible to tell; all our au¬ 
thors are silent; but it could not be so 
little as thirty years, nor could they be 
completed for so small a sum as one 
hundred millions of our present money, 
exclusive of the land they occupy, which 
* is 




THE ROMAN WALL. 23 

is more than five square miles, or than 
three thousand acres. 

As Agricola’s name was lost in Ha¬ 
drian’s, so Severus, being superior to both, 
nearly eclipses both, and the whole is fre¬ 
quently called Severus’s Wall. 

Thus we have carried the reader from 
the beginning to the completion of one of 
the grandest works of human labour, per¬ 
formed by the greatest nation upon earth. 
What shall we say of that production, 
which was the utmost extent of Roman 
effort, and which stands unrivalled in Eu¬ 
rope ! How much delight would it af¬ 
ford the modern antiquarian eye, could he 
survey the works of Agricola, Hadrian, 
and Severus, as they then appeared! the 
noblest si ght ever beheld in this Island! 
the work of strength, of genius, and of 
years! Men have been deified for trifles 


compared 


24 


HISTORY OP 


compared to this admirable structure; a 
Wall seventy miles in length, furnished 
with eighteen Cities, eighty-one Castles, 
and three hundred and thirty Turrets, 
\vith all their mounds, roads, ramparts, 
and astonishing apparatus ! One sight 
would raise the mind to a rapturous subli¬ 
mity. Man would be lost in the wonder, 
nor satisfied with a single view. We 
have admired a wall which has secured 
only a private mansion; still more, when 
it surrounded a City ; but what ideas can 
we fix to one which guarded a kingdom ! 

What I have described is only part of 
that superb production which crosses the 
Island ; for the three personages, but 
chiefly Severus, formed various roads, 
which extended both to the North and 
South, exclusive of those which ran pa¬ 
rallel with the Wall, and which led to 


various 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


25 


various fortified Castles, ten or fifteen 
miles distant; so that the whole country 
was a series of fortifications. 

These out castles were probably pos¬ 
sessed by the Roman officers, to whom, 
and their heirs, Severus bequeathed the 
adjacent lands in perpetuity, in considera¬ 
tion of their keeping a certain number of 
men in arms to guard the frontiers; and 
which they could not dispose of, except 
by the same military tenure. This is 
thought to have heen the first instance of 
the feudal system. — The mighty work 
obliged the Piets, for a time, to starve at 
home. 

So large a number of people assembled, 
as the Roman soldiery, with the multitude 
of Britons drawn to their assistance, to¬ 
gether with those who brought materials 
and necessaries for building, and family 

use, 



26 


HISTORY OT 

use, accounts for the vast number of vil¬ 
lages and dwellings which have been near 
the Wall 

The work of Severus, untouched by the 
wicked fingers of man, would exhibit its 
proud head many thousand years ; but 
the works of Agricola and Hadrian, 
being native earth, would continue to the 
last trump. 

The Wall was now complete, well 
guarded, and the people safe. But the 
Roman power beginning to decline, and 
the military abating in their attention, 
the Piets and Scots found means to break 
through, surprized, and slaughtered the 
Romans, killed their generals, and re¬ 
treated. 

Constantine (not the Great), who 
reigned towards the close of the fourth 
century, first neglected the Wall. He col¬ 
lected 


THE HOMAN WALL. 


27 


lected the flower of the British youth ; 
passed with his army into France; and left 
this country in a defenceless state. Thus, 
being exhausted of its strength, the Wall 
was again broken, and the enemy, with 
destruction, entered : the people lost their 
energy, and nothing was seen but desolation. 

Theodosius began his reign in 402, and 
continued near half a century. In his time 
the Romans withdrew from Britain. The 
Piets and Scots made inroads; and the in¬ 
habitants, in distress, applied to the Ro* 

r 

mans for assistance, inviting those conque¬ 
rors, whom they formerly tried to repel. 
A legion was sent, who beat back their 
enemies; but, the Roman empire being in 

t * - l s i • ^ 

convulsions, they were ordered back, and 

• * 

returned no more, after a residence of four 
hundred and eighty-eight years from the 

. t • --t 

landing of Caesar. 

Before 


28 


HISTOHY OT 


Before their departure, they instructed 
the miserable natives in the use of arms, 
the arts of government, of war, and di¬ 
rected them how to repair the Wall. But 
a most dastardly spirit, such as is rarely 
found in history, pervaded the whole king¬ 
dom. They were more inclined to weep 
over their situation, than attempt to im¬ 
prove it. Let not a people vaunt; what 
they have been, they may be. The sove¬ 
reign was weak; the people were slaves. 

In this dreadful state of existence, with¬ 
out energy, the Wall went to decay, after 
that noble monument had remained in per¬ 
fection two hundred years, and was never 
after effectually repaired. 

Gildas y who lived near this period, re¬ 
marks, “ As soon as the Romans were de¬ 
parted, hideous multitudes of Scots and 
Piets came swarming out of their Car - 

rogheSy 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


29 


roghes , like whole armies of black vermin, 
at high noon, crawling out of their narrow 
holes ; which, though they differed in 
other things, agreed in bloodshed. They 
seized the Northern parts, as if they had 
been their own inheritance, even as far as 
the Wall(which pr oves that the Low¬ 
lands were the property of the Romans.) 

iC Against these attempts, there were 
ranged, in the high parts, along the Wall, 
garrisons of soldiers ; but such as were 
both slothful, and unserviceable for mar¬ 
tial affairs; which white-livered lozels, 
with quaking hearts, sat still watching 
day and night, till their joints were be¬ 
numbed, and were as stupid as the stones 
on which they sat, so that their unarmed 
enemies, with long hooks, plucked the mi¬ 
serable watchers off the Wall, and dashed 
« 

them against the ground till dead. Thus 


30 


HISTORY OF 


by their sudden deaths they escaped those 
calamities which awaited their families, re¬ 
lations, and friends; tor they abandoned 

* 

the Wall, their abode, and departed where- 
ever they could hide themselves. But the 
enemy pursued with violence, slaughtered, 
massacred, and rent them to pieces like 

/ s t « . 

lambs in the hands of bloody butchers, or 
in the jaws of savage beasts.” 

In these dreadful times, the distressed 
were obliged to rob each other to support 
life; this brought on numberless quarrels, 
which, as the land denied relief, continued 
a length of time. Their chief support was 
hunting and fishing. 

During the following five hundred and 
fifty years, while the Saxons, held the rule, 
a continual warfare was sustained on the 
borders, between the two kingdoms; some¬ 
times by armies, but more frequently by 

small 


31 


THE ROMAN WALL. 

small parties of the neighbouring Inhabi¬ 
tants. The land near the Wall was often 
the property of a Scotch sovereign, and of¬ 
ten that of an English monarch ; but so 
full of thieves and murderers, it was not 
worth owning by either; and yet, though 
the two Princes could agree upon many 
points, they could not agree upon a line of 
demarcation. The people lived without 
restraint, and without protection. 

It is impossible to conceive a human be¬ 
ing in a more dreadful situation than that 
of a borderer; keeping, in the day-time, a 
continual look-out, and in the dark and 
solitary night, attentive to every minute 
sound, which excited terrible ideas, and 

augmented those ideas into the approach 

\ 

of an enemy. His property ever open to 
plunder ; his house, the only thing im¬ 
movable, exposed to the flames; his mind 


32 


HISTORY OF 


perpetually tortured by the rack, surrounded 
by enemies, all bred up in savage prin¬ 
ciples, wishing to take his life, and he who 
could take it, might with impunity; his 
only guard was his strength, which, put 
into the balance against a multitude, was 
a dram to a pound. His wife and chil¬ 
dren, the dearest treasures upon earth, 
daily liable to be murdered before his eyes, 
and himself doomed to share their fate or 
starve ! Bread, water, and peace, is pre¬ 
ferable to such a life, even with an entail 
of ten thousand acres. 

Some idea may be formed of the ruined 
state of the country ; for, at the general 
Domesday survey of the kingdom in 1080, 
the four counties of Cumberland, Northum¬ 
berland, Durham, and Westmorland, were 
omitted; because, by the continued wars 
between the two nations, they were so 

ruined, 


I 


THE ROMAN WALL. • 33 

r 

ruined, and covered with marks of destruc¬ 
tion, that they must have been surveyed 
with horror, but without profit. 

Th ree of these counties, Northumber¬ 
land, Cumberland, and Westmoreland, 
were, at the Conquest, in the hands of the 

Scots ; but they soon lost them, for Wil- 

\ 

liam gave Cumberland to his favourite, and 
follower, Randolph Meschines , who par¬ 
celled out the dangerous frontiers amon^ 
his officers upon the feudal system. To 
some he gave a Knight’s fee, six hundred 
and forty acres, of the annual rent of 
twenty pounds ; to some, half one ; and to 
others, a quarter; furnishing them with 
men and arms, to guard against invasion, 
keeping the centre himself, part of which 
was the forest of Inglewood. 

Randolph, like a true patriot, would not 
suffer the military to be idle; for, being at 

d peace, 


34 


HISTORY OF 


\ 


peace, he distributed his men over the 
country, which is fertile, to cultivate the 
land. He gave the Barony of Burgh to 
Robert Treavers, which descended by mar¬ 
riage to the Morvilles. The head of this 
family was Sir Hugh Morville, one of the 
four Knights, who, in 1169, murdered 
Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canter¬ 
bury; which as soon as they had accom¬ 
plished, they entered the bishop’s stables* 
took four of his horses, and, travelling pri¬ 
vate ways, hid themselves at Knaresburgh, 
in Yorkshire, the property of Hugh. 

It does not appear that these four gen¬ 
tlemen set out from Normandy with a re¬ 
solution to kill Becket. Many charges, 
arguments, and expostulations, passed be¬ 
tween them during some time, in which, 
had the Bishop been in the least comply¬ 
ing, the evil had been avoided; but, the 

Knights 


THE ROMAN WALL, 


35 


Knights Irritated for the moment by his 
stubborn replies, destruction to the man 
ensued, who merited every punishment 
but the last. 

This Sir Hugh was also proprietor of 

i 

Kirk Oswald, near Penrith. He erected 
the church in expiation of the crime, where 
his sword, in memory of the transaction, 
was preserved for many ages. Danton 
says, that the sword which killed Becket 
was, in his father’s life-time, (Queen Eli¬ 
zabeth) kept at Isel, the property of Hugh, 
and afterwards in the Duke of Norfolk’s 
family, who are descended from Hugh. 

The Barony of Burgh came afterwards 

by marriage to the Moltons, then to the 

* 

Dacres, and the Howards Dukes of Nor¬ 
folk, who married the heiress of Dacre. 

The military, in time of danger, were 
collected by firing the beacons; and were, 

d 2 by 


36 


HISTORY OF 


by the laws of tenure, bound to serve forty 
days. The privates enjoyed small farms of 
ten or twelve acres, called Nag and Foot 
tenements. These beacons were erected in 
the following places in 1468 : 


Carlisle, 

Lingy-Close head, 

Beacon-Hill, 

Penrith, 

Dale-Roughton, 

Brampton-Moat, 

Spade-Adam-Top, 

Black-Co mb, 

S tan em o re -Top, 
Farlton-Knot, 

H ard-Knot, 


Boot-Hill, 

Mulcaster-Fell, 

St. Bees-Head, 

Workington-Head, 

Moothey, 

Skiddow, 

Sandale-Top, 

all in Cumberland. 

Win-Fell, 

Orton-Scar, 

in Westmoreland. 


The lawless banditti in the borders were 
on the watch for plunder; and whatever 
depredations were committed in one king¬ 
dom, weie never punished in the other; so 

that. 


f 


/* 


s 


THE ROMAN WALL. 3? 

X 

/ 

that, if the offender could either fight or 
fly, he was safe. 

Exclusive of the want of a general line 
of demarcation, there was a piece of com¬ 
mon land, about ten miles long, and six 
broad, called Debatable Ground , claimed 
and possessed by both, about five miles 
North of the Wall, joining Solway Frith ; 
this harboured the greatest number of 
thieves, because the title of either crown 
was defective. Thus property, instead of 
being protected by law, could only be 
protected by strength, and this was not 
with the owner. Society cannot exist 
without a compact; besides, bred among 
savages, he became savage himself. 

An old Roll describes the boundary of 
the Debatable Ground as follows: Be¬ 
ginning where Sark meets the sea, then up 
to Pyngilburn, then to Pyngilburn-Know; 

thence 


38 


/ 


HISTORY OF 


thence to Righeads, then to Monk-Riland- 
burn, and down Harven-burn to the Esk; 
to the foot of Terras; up Terras to the foot 
of Reygill; up Reygill to the top-house ; 
then to the standing stone, and the Mere- 
burn-head ; then down till it falls into the 
Lyddall at Rutterford; and still down till 
it falls into the Esk; and thence into the 
sea.” 

Which side formed this Roll of division 
is uncertain; but the description is so very 
intelligent, that a stranger might find it. 
The circumference was perhaps thirty-five 
miles. Had equity decided upon the De¬ 
batable Ground instead of arms, she would 
have given it to Scotland. 

o 

This degraded piece of land, this scene 
of butchery, gave rise to that celebrated 

joke upon “ King James’s favourite Cotv , 

* 

which he brought from Scotland when he 

acceded 


\ 


a 


THE HOMAN WALL. 39 

acceded to the crown. She having no 
taste for English manners, silently re¬ 
treated without even a farewell to the mo¬ 
narch ; and was the only personage in his 
whole train that ever returned to Scotland. 
When the courtiers expressed their sur¬ 
prize, how she could find the way, as she 
could speak neither Scotch nor English ; 
the King replied, that did not excite his 
wonder so much as how she could travel 
over the Debatable Ground without being 
stolen.” 

The loss of the three counties sat uneasy 
upon the mind of the Scotish sovereigns, 
who did not chuse to assert their right 
during the martial spirit of the Norman 
kings; but when the affairs of King John 
were embroiled with the Pope and the Ba¬ 
rons, William, King of Scotland, demanded 
them ) when John, distressed for money, 

ceded 


40 


HISTORY OF 


ceded them, with some other privileges, to 
William, in 1209, for fifteen thousand 
marks, equal to about two hundred thou¬ 
sand pounds of our present currency; but 
the money was never paid. 

Alexander, the son of William, de¬ 
manded them afterwards of Henry the 
Third, the son of John, or that he should 
fulfil his father’s contract; but Henry was 
too poor, or too dishonest, to do either. 
Bargains between princes are kept, while 
it is their interest. 

After many applications, the two Kings 
met in 1237 at York ; and agreed, that 
Alexander should resign his pretensions to 
the three counties for a yearly pension of 
eight hundred marks, and two hundred li- 
brates of land ; and that Henry’s brother 
Richard, King of the Romans, should 
marry the King of Scots 5 sister. 

• As 



THE ROMAN WALL. 


41 


As this agreement also was not per¬ 
formed, the two sovereigns met a second 
time at York, and fabricated a third, which, 

I have reason to think, was observed just 
as well as the others. 

After Edward the First had reduced 
Scotland, he resided some time in Cum¬ 
berland ; and hearing daily complaints of 
the mischiefs committed on the borders by 
the banditti, appointed Robert de Clifford 
Lord Warden of the Marches, as they were 
afterwards called. The lords of manors 
were placed under his command, and bound 
to serve, with a stipulated number of men, 
horse and foot, armed, and supported at 
their own expence. A revival of the feudal 
tenure. 

The Lords Wardens had almost an un¬ 
limited power: they could hold courts, take 
cognizance of offences, punish the body, 

could 


42 


HISTORY OF 


could fine, seize lands, or goods, could upon 
the appearance of an enemy call into actual 
service all able-bodied men from sixteen to 
sixty, lead them into action, and make 
truce, or peace, with the Scots. 

This office continued during many 
reigns. In Queen Elizabeth’s time, the 
salary of the Lord Warden was four 
hundred a year, out of which he paid two 
deputies. 

The Lord de Clifford continued in office 
till slain at the battle of Bannock Burn in 
1314, where the English are said to have 
lost fifty thousand men, which so depopu¬ 
lated the country, that few men were left. 
An order was therefore issued, “ that no 
man should sleep more than two nights 
with one woman, but proceed from house 
to house, and reinstate the lost genera¬ 
tion.” Perhaps this was the first order of 

the 


THE HOMAN WALL. 


43 


the kind ever made; an order which would 
probably be kept. 

PVom this time, the Kings of Scotland 

* 

claimed an equal right with those of Eng¬ 
land to appoint Lords of the Marches. In 
this, Richard the Second acquiesced because 
he could not help it. 

Percy, Earl of Northumberland, was 
constituted for England, and Douglas, 
Lord Galway, for Scotland. A jury was 
established; the English lord chose six out 
of Scotland, and the Scotch six out of Eng¬ 
land. The defendant, upon the trials, was 
acquitted upon his own oath. Surely they 
knew but little of human nature, or they 
would have doubted whether one half of 
those oaths were true when taken by an 
interested man. As the oaths are singular, 
I will transcribe them. 


/ 


Juror’s 


44 


HISTORY OF 


Juror’s Oath. 

YOU shall clean no bills worthy to be 
fouled: you shall foul no bills worthy to be 
cleaned; but shall do that which appeareth 
with truth, for the maintenance of truth, 
and suppressing of attempts—So help you 
God. 


Plaintiff’s Oath. 

YOU shall leile (little) price make, and 
truth say, what your goods were worth at 
the time of their taking, to have been 
bought and sold in the market, taken all 

. 4 

at one time, and that you know no other 
recovery but this—So help you God. 



■w' 


Defend 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


45 


Defendant’s Oath. 

YOU shall swear by Heaven above you, 
Hell beneath you, by your part in Paradise, 
by all that God made in six days and seven 
nights, and by God himself, you are whart 
and sackless, of art, part, way,witting, ridd, 
kenning, having, or reciting, of any of the 
goods and chattels named in this bill—So 
help you God. 

We may observe a mildness in the plain¬ 
tiff's oath, and severity in the defendant’s, 
as well as something foolishly wanton. 
There appears also no reason why one 
should be accepted, and the other dis¬ 
regarded. 

♦ 

Notwithstanding the power of the Lords 
Warden, on both sides of the Wall, their 
juries, and courts of justice, yet incursions 

w r ere 


\ 


46 


HISTORY OP 


/ X 

were made by both kingdoms, as the 
watchful eye of villany could find an open¬ 
ing. Many battles were fought, and many 
prisoners taken, as well by fraud as fight¬ 
ing, and charged with a ransom accord¬ 
ing to their rank, which was the perqui¬ 
site of the taker. 

The Wall was broken through near 
Stanwix, and the Scots attacked Carlisle; 
but the fair sex defended the place by a 
new art of war, scalding the enemy with 
floods of boiling water from the battle¬ 
ments. Nor were the English secure, had 
the Wall been perfectly guarded; for the 
Scots, in parties, frequently boated over 
Solway Frith, by night, two miles wide, a 
little West of the Wall, plundered the in¬ 
habitants, and retreated before morning. 

At the battle of Solway Moss, near the 
Wall, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, 

1543, 


THE ROMAN WALL 


47 


1543, the English with one thousand men, 
are said to have beaten the Scots with 
fifteen thousand; but this was a victory 
without honour on one side, or disgrace on 
the other; for we are told, that Oliver 
Sinclair, the Scotch King’s favourite, but 
hated by the people, proud of office, was 
carried upon men’s shoulders, to shew him¬ 
self and his commission as general. The 
troops were so disgusted, they refused to 
fight, but grounded their arms, and suffered 
themselves to be taken; a preconcerted 
plan, no doubt; or the English, with their 
small number, durst not have attacked. 

Henry possessed an extension of mind, 
both for good and evil actions, equal to his 
extension of body. At Christmas, in the 
same year, he invited to dinner, at Green¬ 
wich, twenty-one of the Scots nobility and 
gentry taken at this battle, whom he libe¬ 
rated 


HISTORY OF 



* 


rated without ransom ; perhaps in grati¬ 
tude for the above plan. Some of their 
names are as follows: 


Prisoners. 
Earl of Cassil, 

, r* m 

i. V j‘% z. - 

v. Jt * /• < i — X f 

Earl of Glencarn, 


Lord Fleming, the 
King’s Privy Coun¬ 
sellor, 

Lord Maxwell, Admi- 
ral of Scotland, Lord 
Warden of the 
Marches, and Privy 
Counsellor, 

Lord Summerville, 
Lord Olivant, 


By whom taken. 

Batill Routledge took 
the man, and claimed 
half the horse, and John 
Musgrave the other 
half. 

Willye Grame, called 
Watt’s Willye, Willye 
Grame of the Balie, 
Sir Thomas Wharton, 
and Thomas Dacre. 
George Pott and Ste¬ 
phen James. 

Edward Aglionby and 
George Forster. 


Richard Briscoe. 
ThomasDenton, James 
Allison. 


Lord 


49 




THE ROMAN WALL. 

Prisoners. By whom taken. 

Lord Gray, Thomas Whyte, Wil- 

lye Storey, and 
George Storey. 

Oliver Sinclair, Gene- Willye Bell, 
ral and Privy Coun¬ 
sellor, 

The Lord Warden is said to have sum¬ 
moned to this battle, in his department, 

*+ * 1 $ 

the following Lords of Manors, with the 

( * 1 ( 

force they were obliged to send by their 

military tenures to protect the frontiers. 

- \ - * 

Gentlemen. Manors. 

John Musgrave, horse Beaucastle* 

* 4 

and foot, 

Thomas Blenerhasset, Gilsland. 

6 0 horse. 

Richard W arwick, and W ar wickbrigs. 
tenants. 

Alex. Apleby, 2 horse. 

William Porter, 2 horse. 

E Gentlemen, 


i 


so 


HISTORY Of 


« 


Gentlemen. 

Anthony Highmore, 
4 horse. 

Edward Aglionby, 
horse and foot. 

Rob.Briscoe,horse and 
foot. 

Cuthbert Hutton, 6 
horse, 10 foot. 

Tho. Dacre, horse and 
foot. 

William Pickering, 20 
horse, 20 foot. 

Chris. Threlkeld, 4 
horse, 6 foot. 

Lancelot Lowther, 
horse and foot. 

Mr. Lotus, 60 horse. 

J ohnSenhouse,4horse. 

William Pennington, 
all horse. 

Sir James Lowther, 100 
horse, 40 foot. 

Sir Thomas Cur wen, 
horse and foot. 


Manors. 


Ainstable. 


Penrith. 

Graystock. 

Barton, Marti ndale, 
and Patterdale. 
Threlkeld. 

DerwentwaterEstatesv 

Lord Milium. 

Calder. 

t *> 

Mulcaster. 
Whitehaven, 8cc< 

Workington. 


Gentlemen. 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


51 


Gentlemen. 


Manors. 


John Lamplugh, 10 
horse, 4 foot. 

ThomasDykes,4horse. 

Richard Eaglesfield, 6 
horse. 

Anthony Barwise, 2 
horse. 

William Asmotherby, 
2 horse. 

JohnS winburn, house¬ 
hold servants. 

Lord of St. Bees, 10 
horse. 

Robert Lamplugh, 
household servants. 

Robert Ellis, 2 horse. 

John Thwaits, house¬ 
hold servants. 

John Shelton, 4 horse. 

Sir William Musgrave, 
100 horse, 40 foot. 

John Leigh, 10 horse. 

Thomas Salkeld, 4 
horse. 


Lamplugh. 

Wardel-Halh 

i 

C Basinthwait, and 
1 Lovvswater. 

White Hall. 


E 2 


Gentlemen* 


HISTORY Of 


■ 52 

Gentlemen. 

William Shelton, 6 
horse. 

Thomas Dalston, 10 
horse, 20 foot. 

William Vaux, 4 horse, 

6 foot. 

Richard Blencow, 6 
horse. 

Bishop’s tenants, (Car¬ 
lisle), 40 horse. 

Abbey Holm, all tried 
horse. 

The above military list was in part de¬ 
stroyed, which occasioned some of the 
gentlemen, and more of the manors, to be 
omitted ; but the total number of men 
were 1027 , another indication of a prior 
plan of surrender, for we cannot suppose 
one thousand men would attack fifteen. 

We may observe, that the dignified 
dergy, notwithstanding their peaceable 

profession. 


Manors* 

Dalston. 

Catterland. 

Blencow* 





THE ROMAN WALL. 53 

profession, were obliged to contribute their 
quota; that the force was chiefly horse; 
that many of the families still possess the 
same property, without being goaded with 
an arbitrary martial tax; and, that those 
who sent their servants, would be apt to 
retain a smaller number, and perhaps with 
bodily defects, that they might slip the 
shoulder from under the burden. 

The Debatable Ground , as remarked, 
had always been an object of dispute be¬ 
tween the two crowns. Each kingdom 
depastured upon this vast common. The 
Scots were clamorous, or silent, according 
to the power of the English sovereign. 
Lord Dacre, who commanded the Western 
march, informed the Duke of Somerset, 
Protector, in the reign of Edward the 
Sixth, 1549, u That the Scots were rais¬ 
ing forces, which were to join those of 

France, 


54 


HISTORY OF 


France, and make a descent, with ten 
thousand men, to burn and destroy what¬ 
ever was found upon the Debatable Land; 
and that the numerous and plundering fa¬ 
mily of Grame (Graham), a sturdy race, 
would turn Scots, if not supported .’ 9 

An agreement, however, prevented the 
sword from being drawn: two gentlemen 
from each kingdom were deputed to settle 
the boundary; Lord Warton and Sir Tho¬ 
mas Challoner, for England; Sir James 
Douglas and Sir Richard Maitland, for 
Scotland. In all disputes, the fewer the 
number employed to compose them, the 
sooner the work will be accomplished. 
They divided it by rivers; but where there 
were none to guide them, then by a bank 
and ditch, which they effected from the ri¬ 
ver Esk, to the Sark, called The Scotch 
Dyke y about five miles long. The North 


was 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


55 


was allotted to the Scots, and the South to 

* 

the English, which last is now the estate 
of Sir James Graham, of Netherby, up¬ 
wards of ten thousand a year. Three 
hundred and ninety acres of this land, 
were, in 17 / 1 , destroyed by the overflow¬ 
ing of Solway Moss, now re-instated. 

Although this division of the land made 
peace between the two crowns, it did not 
between the borders. Their depredations 
continued till the union of the two king¬ 
doms in 1/06. 

The following is a list, delivered to the 
Bishop of Carlisle, of the principal offen¬ 
ders, with their followers, who made in¬ 
cursions into Cumberland, and Westmore¬ 
land, and were present at the murders, 
burnings, &c. 


Simon 


56 


HISTORY OP 


Simon Musgrave, 

Lord of Pattinsor, 

I 

Jock Kinmont, 

Will’s Arthur, 
RichieGrameof Bailie, 
Will’s Jock Grame, 
Rich. Grame of Aske- 
sha-Hill, 

Adam Grame of Hall, 
Richie of Bushe, 
Forgie’s Wille Grame, 
Geordie’s Christie, 
Black Jock’s Johnie, 
George Grame of Sand¬ 
hills, 

Dick’s Davie’s Davie, 
Geordie Armstrong of 
Catgill, 

Hector of Ilarelowe, 
Ernie of Gingles, 
Mickle Willie Grame, 
Richie’s Geordie, 
Geordie of the Gingles, 
or Henharrow, 

John Nelson, Curate 
of Beaucastle, 


Jock of the Lakes, 
Christie, 

John Noble, alias 
Longfoot, 

Will Grame of Rose- 
trees, 

Will Grame, brother 
to Hutchin, 

John Musgrave, Cat- 
terton, 

Gibb’s Jock’s Johnie, 

Tom’s Robbie, 

• V ■ * i / 4 • 4 « 

Pattie’s Geordie’s 
Johnie, 

Young John of Wood- 
head, 

Rich. Grame, son of 
Goodman of Barken 
Hill, 

John of the Side, 
(Gleed John) 

Young Lord of Grait- 
ney, (the famous 
Gretna Green) 

Archie of Gingles, 

Jock of Gingles, 


Black 


THE ROMAN WALL. 5J 

Black Jock’s Johnie, Watt Grame, (Nimble 
Black Jock's Leonie, Wattie,) 

W ill’s Jock, Will Grame, (Mickle 

Richie Grame, jun. Willie,) 

Netherby, William Patrick, 

Sandie’s Rynyon’s Priest of Reaucastle, 

Davie, Red Rovvev Forster, 

Gibb’s Davie’sFrancie, Sec, 

In this list, we find some names in ele¬ 
vated life, but not of elevated manners. 
As they were not governed by laws, it was 
so fashionable to he rogues, that it anni¬ 
hilated disgrace. We see also, among 
them, the Clergy; who, instead of per¬ 
suading others from robbery, ought to 

O j 7 o 

have been hanged themselves for being 
robbers. 

It was ordained by the commissioners of 
the border-laws of England, that a council 

should be established in every March, to 

• * \ 

• be 


58 


HISTORY OT 


be convened twice a year, to try the noto¬ 
rious robbers, who, if found guilty, should 
suffer death ; or, if fugitives, their houses 
should be destroyed. 

On the Scots side of the Wall , William 
Douglas, in 1468, convened the borderers 
in council; when it was ordained, “ That 
no person shall have any concern with an 
English man or woman, under pain of 
high treason, without special licence. If 
any man steals, the goods shall be taken 
from him, and he be deemed guilty of 
treason.’’ 

I shall state some of the charges brought 
by the West Marches of England, to the 
commissioners, against the Marches of 
Liddesdale, in Scotland, taken from Mr. 
Bell’s notes, who, in the reign of Queen 
Elizabeth, was a member of the Border 
court, and which probably fell under his eye. 

C0M7 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


59 


Commissioners. 

John Foster, Alex. Hume of 

John Selbie, Hutton, 

Richard Lowther, George Young 

Carmegell. 

1580 Nov. Sir Simon Musgrave complains 
against the Lord of Mangarton; the 
Lords Jock, Sims Thom, and their ac¬ 
complices, for burning his barn, wheat, 
rye, oates, and pease, 1000£. 

1581. Sir Simon Musgrave, Thom of the 
Todill, and his neighbours, complain 
against Robin Eliot of the Park, Sim 
Eliot, Clemie Corser, Go wen's Jock, 
and others, for stealing sixty kine and 
oxen, a horse, and taking Thomie Rout- 
ledge prisoner. 

James Foster of Symwhaite complains 
against William Eliot of Redhaugh, 

Adam 


60 


HISTORY OF 


Adam of the Shaws, Archie of the Hill, 
and John Eliot of Hawhouse, for fifty 
kine and oxen, and all his insight 
(household goods). 

1582. Mathew Taylor, and the poor 
widow of Martin Taylor, complain 
against the old Lord of Whitaugh, 
young Lord of Whitaugh, Sims Thom, 
and Jock Copshaw, for one hundred and 
forty kine and oxen, one hundred sheep, 
two goats, and all his insight, value 
200£. sterling. The murder of Martin 
Taylor, John Dodson, John Skelloe, 
and Matthew Blackburn. 

1582. Thomas Musgrave, Deputy of 
Beaucastle, and his tenants, complain 
against Walter Scot, Lord of Buckluth 
(ancestor to the Duke of Buccleugh) 
and his accomplices, for two hundred 
kine, and three hundred sheep and goats. 

Andrew 


THE ROMAN WALL* 


61 


Andrew Taylor complains against Robin 
Eliot,Will his brother, George Simpson, 
and their accomplices, for sixty kine and 
oxen, one hundred sheep, and all his in¬ 
sight, 60/. 

1586. Thomas Musgrave, Deputy Warden 
of Reaucastle, against the Lords Jock, 
Dick of Dryup, and accomplices, for four 
hundred kine and oxen, taken in open 
forrie from the Dry sick, in Beaucastle. 

1587* Andrew Rootledge, of the Nuke, 
complains against Lords Jock, Dick of 
Dryup, Lancy of Whirgills, and their 
accomplices, for fifty kine and oxen, 
burning his house, corn, and insight, 
100/. sterling. 

Clemie Taylor complains against Archie 
Eliot, Gilbie Eliot, and others, for fifty 
kine and oxen, all his insight, 100 
marks sterling. 

The 


62 


HISTORY OF 


The poor widow and inhabitants of Tem- 
mon complain against the Lord of 
Mongarton, for the murder of John 
Tweddal, Willie Tweddal, and Davie 
Bell; the taking, and carrying away, 
John Thirl way, Edward Thirl way, John 
Bell of Clowsgill, Davy Bell, Philip 
Twedall, Rowe Carrock, Thomas Al¬ 
lison, George Laycock, and Archie 
Armstrong; ransoming them as prison¬ 
ers, and taking one hundred kine and 
oxen, spoil of houses, writings, money, 
and insight, 400Z. sterling. 

Liddesdale against the West Marches. 
Bills in the hands of Lord Scroop, found 
by the Commissioners at Berwick. 

Lord of Mangarton complains against 
Cuddie Taylor, and others, for two 
hundred kine and oxen, insight 201 . 
sterling. 


Lord 


7 


THE ROMAN WALL. 63 

\ 

Lord of Mangarton complains against Mr. 
Humphry Musgrave, Captain Pikeman, 
and his soldiers, for taking him prisoner; 
oxen, kine, horses, mares, sheep, goats, 
and insight, 1500/. sterling. 

Lord Mangarton complains against Adam's 
Jammie Foster, Matthew Taylor, Seal- 
bie’s Hutchin, and Geordie's Hetherton, 
for two hundred kine and oxen, eight 
hundred sheep and goats, six horses and 
mares, from Tunden. 

Thom Armstrong of Tinnis Burn, com¬ 
plains against Ensign Knap, James's 
Adam Rootledge, John Taylor, Geordie 
Hetherton, and Mark's Tom's Geordie. 

Lancie of Whitaugh, complains against 
Sim Taylor, John Taylor, Cuddie Taylor, 
for insight, silver coined and uncoined, 
4000/. sterling. 

« * 

Sim 


64 


HISTORY OF 


Sim Armstrong of Whitaugh, complains 
against John Taylor, Adam’s Jemie, for 
eight hundred sheep. 

Robin Eliot of Redhaugh, complains 
against Thomas Carlton, for sixty bine 
and oxen, four hundred sheep, insight, 
from the Steile, 200/. 

Hob Eliot of Ransgill, complains against 
Thomas Carlton, and Richie of the 
Moat, for sixty kine and oxen, six 
horses, three prisoners, 400 marks. 

Branche Burnhead complains against Mr. 
Humphry Musgrave, and Thomas Carl¬ 
ton, for twenty kine and oxen, forty 
horses, from the Eliots of Burnhead. 

John Eliot of the Haugh-house,and Gawen 
of Rarsgill, complain against Captain 
Cawell, and his band, with the Clans 
of Leven, for two hundred kine and oxen, 
thirty horses. 


Names 


» 


THE ROMAN WALE. 65 

■*s • 

Names of the persons complained of, 
which the Lord Scroop had to deliver to 
the court. 

John Taylor, Sim Taylor, 

Mr. Humphry Pattie’s Cuddle, 

Musgrave, Adam’s Jemie, 

Geordie Hetherton, Thomas Carlton, 
Geordie, son to Richie of the Moat. 

Mark’s Thomie, 


Bills found by the Marches of England, 
against the West Marches of Scotland. 

o 

Commissioners. 

\ 

John Foster, Alex. Hume, of 

John Selbie, Hutton, 

Richard Louther, George Young. 
Carmigell, 

1582. Thomas Rootledge, of Todholes, 
and neighbours, complain against 

F Kymont 


/ 



6S 


HISTORY OP 


Kymont Jock, Eckie Studholme, Jock 
of the Calf-hill, and accomplices, for 
forty kine and oxen, twenty sheep and 
goats, one horse, insight, 300/. sterling. 

Dick’s Rowie Rootledge, complains against 
Kymond Jock, Jock of Calf-hills, and ac¬ 
complices, for thirty kine and oxen, one 
horse, insight, and spoil, 60/. sterling. 

James Rootledge, and neighbours, com¬ 
plain against Geordie Armstrong of 
Calf’s-hill, and Jock his brother, with 
accomplices, for one hundred kine and 
oxen. 

1586. Christopher Burstholme of Breeken- 
hill, against John Armstrong, son of 
Sandie, Ecliie’s Richie, Willie Grame, 
called Will with the Silk, for sixty kine 
and oxen, one bull, one horse, insight, 
200 marks. 


Geordie 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


67 


Geordie Taylor, of the Bone Riddings, 
complains against Will Bell, Red -cloak, 
Watt Bell, Richie Bell, with accom¬ 
plices, for thirty kine and oxen, insight, 
100?. sterling. 

Walter Grame,William Grame,and tenants 
of Esk, against William Bell, Red-cloak, 
Watty Bell, and the Sur-name of Car¬ 
lisle, for burning their mills, houses, 
corn, insight, 400?. sterling. 

William Grame of Steddalls, against 
William Bell, Red-cloak, Tom Bell, 
and their accomplices, for thirty kine 
and oxen, sixty sheep, three horses, 
insight, 100?. sterling. 

James Grame, and Hutch in Grame, of 
Pare-tree, against Will Bell, lled-cloak, 
Tom Bell and accomplices, for sixty-kine 
and oxen, one hundred sheep, and in¬ 
sight of their houses, 100?. sterling. 

r 2 Cuddy 


68 


HISTORY OF 


Cuddy Taylor, and neighbours, of Flelle- 
thirst, against young Christopher Arm¬ 
strong of Awging-hill, Jock of Calf-hill, 
Eckies Richie, and Willie Cary (Gate- 
warden), for sixty kine and oxen, four 
horses, armour, and insight, 200Z. 

' llovyey Foster, John Brinie, and neigh¬ 
bours, complain against Richie Max¬ 
well, of Cavans, and the soldiers of 
Langholm, for two hundred kine and 
oxen, two hundred sheep and goats. 

The poor widow of Watt’s Davie Forgie, 
against John Hollas, Willie Cany, Ec- 
kie’s Richie, and Co. for the murder of 
her husband, forty kine and oxen, two 
horses, insight, 100/. sterling. 

1587* James Taylor, of the Cross-rig, 
complains against Jock of Calf-hill, 
Kynmont Jock, and accomplices, for 
thirty kine and oxen, two nags, forty 
goats, 100Z. sterling. 


Thomas 



/ 


THE ROMAN WALL. 69 

Thomas Musgrave, Deputy of Reaucastle, 
and tenants, complain against Geordie 
of Calf-hill, Pattie of the Hairlowe, 
Willie Cony, Eckie Richie, and others, 
for two hundred kine and oxen. 

Thomas Grame, called Watt’s Davie’s 
Thome, complains against Eckie’s Ri¬ 
chie, of Stubholme, Willie Cany, John 

of the Hollows, with their accomplices, 

♦ 

for thirty kine and oxen, two horses, in¬ 
sight, 10CP. sterling ; and taking Wil¬ 
liam, and Pattie Grame, prisoners. 

Subscribed by the Commissoners 
abovenamed. 

s. 

Would a Mahometan suppose I was 
treating of Christians ! Should a Divine 

o 

enquire, what improvement Christianity 
had made in the human mind, he must 
not go near the Wall. 


As 


70 


HISTORY OF 


As we are not to suppose the Scots 
were the sole aggressors, it is necessary to 
examine the English side of the Wall: jus¬ 
tice demands it. 

Bills of damage presented to the English 
Commissioners done by the English, against 
the West Marches of Scotland. 

Walter Scot of Bransholme, and the te¬ 
nants of Elrick-house, complain against 
Will Grame, of Rose-trees, Hutchin’s 
Richie of the Bailie, with their accom¬ 
plices, for eighty kine and oxen, forty 
nott, sixteen sheep, one horse. 

John Wood, of the Revels, and tenants to 
the Lord of Cookpool, complain against 
Richie Grame of the Moat, Forgie’s 
Chi is tie, Richie of the Bailie, with their 
accomplices, for forty nott, one hundred 
and sixty sheep, and one horse. 

Alex- 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


71 


Alexander Kirkpatrick complains against 

Tom’s Geordle Grame, and accomplices, 

for eighty kine and oxen, six horses, and 

sixtv stotts. 

* 

The tenants of Smallhame, against Braid 
Jock’s Jamie, and Forgie of Meadup, for 
two hundred sheep, two hundred kine and 
oxen, twenty-four horses, insight, 3Q0£. 

The Lord of Cowhill, James Maxwell, of 
Poltrack, and others, of the Water of 
Naith, against Walter Grame, Davie 
Grame, Will Grame, brother to Walter, 
Robert of the Fold, and Richie’s Will, 
for burning Cowhill, Poltrack, Dinhawe, 
one hundred kine and oxen, five hundred 
sheep, two hundred horses, and prisoners 
ransomed, 30,0001. Scots. 

The Lord of Maxwell and his tenants, of 
Dunhaw, Querehvood, Cowhill, and 
other places, against Walter Grame, of 

Netherby, 


72 


HISTORY OP 


Nethcrby, Rob of the Fold,- alias Wil¬ 
lie’s Johnie, Dick’s Will, for burning 
eight hundred onsets (3000/. Scots), one 
hundred kine and oxen, three hundred 

horses, three thousand sheep, prisoners 

% 

ransomed, 500/. sterling. 

Robert Maxwell of Castle-milk, and te¬ 
nants, complain against Walter Grame 
of Netherby, Rob Grame of the Fold, 
and company, for burning house, and 
corn, 4000 marks, one hundred and 
twenty kine and oxen, one hundred and 
eighty sheep, insight, 500 marks. 

The tenants of Adam of Carlisle, and the 
Bells, against Walter Grame of Ne¬ 
therby, Davie, and Wattie his brothers, 
Richie’s Will, Rob of the Fold, for 
burning Goddesbrig, three thousand 
kine and oxen, four thousand sheep and 
goats, five hundred horses, 40,000/. Scots. 

Sir 


THE ROMAN WALL, 


73 


Sir Robert Maxwell of Dunwoodie, against 
Walter Grame, Davie and Willie his 
brothers, Rob of the Fold, Richie’s Will, 
and others, for burning Tin well, Raw- 
shaw, and Mickle-wood side, six hun¬ 
dred kine and oxen, sixty horses, in¬ 
sight, 10,000/. Scots. 

X 

James Douglas of Drumlanrig, against 
Walter Grame of the Fold, and Will 
his brother, for burning the Laithes at 
Rose, 20,000 marks, Cumrew, 2000 

1 

marks, twenty kine and oxen, forty 
horses, and five hundred sheep. 

Executors of the Lord Johnston complain 
against Hutchin’s Andrew, Hutchin’s 
Richie, Will of the Rose-trees, Francis 
of the Moat, and others, for burning 
Lowood, 5000/. Scots, six hundred kine 
and oxen, eighty horses, five hundred 
sheep and goats. 

The 


74 


/ 


\ 

f 

HISTORY OF 

The Earl of Morton, and Herbert Cavans, 
against Grame of the Fold, Walter 
Grame of Netherby, George Grame, son 
of little Tom, and others, for burning 
Langholm, four hundred kine and oxen, 
one thousand sheep, two hundred horses, 
4000/. Scots. 

The Warden of Scotland, complains against 
Walter Grame, Richie of the Moat, and 
others, for bigging houses, and depastur¬ 
ing cattle, in Scotland; sowing corn to 
' the value of forty chalders, during ten 
years past, estimating the hard corn at 
thirty shillings a bow, Scots, pasturing 
two thousand of nott, and horse, at 
thirty shillings a head, Scots, two hun- 
dred sheep, at three pence a head. 

Signed 
John Foster, 

John Selbie, 

Richard 


i 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


75 


Richard Lowther, 

Carmigell, 

Alexander Hume of Hutton, 
George Young. 


The mind is shocked, it even shudders, 
at the dreadful murders, robberies, and 
burnings, in the above catalogue; which is 
only a small part of the devastations prac¬ 
tised in the vicinity of the Wall. This 
farther proves, that we are savages by na¬ 
ture, and should continue so, if not im¬ 
proved by precept, or restrained or pro¬ 
tected by the laws of society. I am sorry 
our own times have exhibited the same fe¬ 
rocity as that found near the Wall; and 
yet the people in that day, as well as this, 
would have been angry, had they not been 
denominated Christians; though I do not 

recollect, 




HISTORY OF 


76 

recollect, that Christ ever dealt in blood, 
or taught it his followers. 

\ 

The line of destruction extended twenty 
miles or more, on each side of the Wall. 

After the establishment of the marches, 
the country was laid under contribution, to 
pay for watch and ward upon the Wall. 
As a specimen, Daham , in the parish of 
Dacre, paid seventeen and fourpence, to 
Kendal Castle, for the support of this 
guard; a large sum in that day. Others 
paid in proportion. 

The roads and avenues were protected 
by castles, to prevent the inroads of the 
marauders; and Penrith castle had a sub¬ 
terraneous passage three hundred and seven 
yards long, which communicated with the 
kitchen of Dockwray-hall, in that town; 
thus, as the besieged could not be battered 
out, they would not be starved out. 


In 


♦ 



THE HOMAN WALL. fj 

In these dreadful tunes, whole villages 
fell a sacrifice, and that often In the win¬ 
ter nights, as more congenial to the black 

t 

purpose; and the inhabitants were obliged 
to run, even from food, fire, and clothing, 
into the cold air, and subsist upon the ri¬ 
ver, and the field. Had there been no 
other argument for a union between the two 
kingdoms, the blood which cried from the 
borders was sufficient. Much has been 
said, both for and against it; but one 
short remark will decide the question.— 
If the members of a vast family are obliged 

i * * 

to reside together, whether is it better to 
live upon equality, and in harmony, pro¬ 
moting each other’s interest, or, each to do 
the other all the mischief in their power ? 
It may be said, “ the Scots lost their sove¬ 
reignty.” They did, just as a little trades¬ 
man loses his, who, having pursued busi- 

* ness 


/ 


/ 

78 HISTORY OF 

I ' 

ness upon his own account, with small 
gains, enters into partnership with a 
greater, and multiplies his accumulations 
tenfold. 

Many of the names in the above list are 
well known in modern history. Some have 
since graced the Senate and the Church; 
and some are an honour to the place in 
which they reside. Johnny Armstrong, 
with his eight-score men, whose famous 
old song delighted me seventy years ago, 
%vas probably a member of the house above 
mentioned. 

The use of the sur-name seems to have 
been but in infancy. The Ap$ in Welsh 
rise from son to father, but here we de¬ 
scend from father to son ; thus Black 
Jock’s Johnie, and Jock of the lake’s 
Christie, father and son. Dick’s Davie’s 
Davie, father, son, and grandson. 

Whether 


✓ 


THE ROMAN WALE 

Whether the sufferers were reimbursed 
is doubtful. It is easier to complain, than 
find redress. Depredations, however, con¬ 
tinued ; for, in 1593, the Lord Warden 
Scroop stated to the gentlemen of the 
Western Marches the dreadful enormities 
that were committed, and requested their 
advice. Their opinion was, “ that the 
Lord Warden had power, and ought to 
summon the heads of houses before him, 
and oblige them to answer for themselves, 
and their dependants.” 

The first of these was Goodman Grame 
of Netherbv, who answered for himself, 
three sons, six brothers, and fourteen fol¬ 
lowers. 

John Grame, for self, two sons, four 
brothers, and five tenants. 

Fargus Grame, for self, sons, and te¬ 
nants. The numerous family oi Grame 
was terrible. 


This 


80 


1 


HISTORY OF 


This agreement, which consisted only 
in words, was no more binding than a cob¬ 
web. The plunderers had two requisites 
for mischief, inclination and power. They 
could fight or run. The name of Good- 
mam, head of the clan, did not altogether 
coincide with the character. 

The Grames returned to their former 
course, till James the First became sove¬ 
reign of both kingdoms; when, in the first 
of his reign, he issued a proclamation 
against them, and seized many of the clan, 
who confessed they were unfit for civilized 
society. 

Many of this mischievous race were in 
1606, transported into Ireland, and their 
possessions given to others. 

It is difficult to fasten a rogue, except by 
a halter. Most of them returned the next 
year, were sent back, but returned even a 

second. 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


81 


second, and a third time, following the 
same diabolical course till 1614, when 
James again proclaimed, “ That he had, 
in the first of his reign, issued his procla¬ 
mation against these violent disturbers of 
the peace, the Grames , who had returned, 
and committed the same enormities ; and 
that if they were caught in the middle 
shires, after fourteen days, they should be 
proceeded against, and capitally punished 
for their former crimes.” 

The Lord of the Marches, and the Com¬ 
missioners, declared also, that none of the 
inhabitants (except the Gentry) in Tin- 
dale, Riddesdale, Reaucastle, Willgavy, 
the North of Gillsland, Esk-dale, Evvsdale, 
and Annerdale, should keep any arms, or 
horse, mare, &c. worth more than fifty 
shillings sterling, or thirty pounds Scots. 

Notwithstanding these prohibitions, the 
banditti continued to infest the Western 

g Marches, 


82 


HISTORY OF 


Marches, under the name of Moss Troopers , 
who being able-bodied men could fight, 
and expert runners could elude the watch. 
Many schemes for their extirpation were 
devised, but none produced a cure, although 
the blood-hound was introduced, whose 
powers of body and sagacious nostrils had 
some effect. 

In 1616, a commission was sent to Sir 

Willfrid Lawson, and Sir William Hutton, 

/ 

stating, that horrid disorders daily in¬ 
creased in the borders, and that slough- 
dogs (blood-hounds) should be provided, 
according to the king's proclamation, un¬ 
der the direction of Sir William Hutton, 
and that he should appoint the watches, 
where they should be kept, and when used, 
with a power to punish for neglect of duty. 

The dogs were kept at the charge of the 
inhabitants, and stationed as follows: 

t 


One 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


83 


One dog above the foot of Sark. 

One at the moat, within-side Sark, of 
Richmont-Clugh. 

One at the Bailie-head, for the parish of 
Arthured, Richmont-Clugh, Bailiff, and 
Black water. 

\ 

One at Tinker-hill, for Newcastle parish. 
Bailie, and Black quarter. 

One for the parish of Stopleton. 

One in the parish of Irthington. 

One at Lanercost, and Walton. 

One at Kirklington, Scaleby, Houghton, 
and Richardby; and 

One for Westlington, Rawcliff, Etherby, 
Stainton, Stanwix, and Cargo, to be kept 
at Rawcliff. 

Villainy, notwithstanding every effort, 
was loth to quit its old habitations. “ It 
was enacted, in 1662, that as lewd, dis¬ 
orderly, lawless thieves, and robbers, com- 

g 2 monly 


84 

/ 


HISTORY OF 


monly called Moss Troopers , infested the 
borders, residing in large wastes, heaths, 
and mosses, who through secret ways 
escaped from one kingdom to another to 
elude punishment, the justices in sessions 
should have power to assess the inhabitants 
of the adjoining counties, to constitute a 
guard against the injury, violence, spoil, 
and rapine of the Moss Troopers. Nor¬ 
thumberland should be charged with five 
hundred pounds a year, to support thirty 
men; and Cumberland with two hundred, 
for twelve men.” 

The only cure, however, was that ap¬ 
plied in lJTS, the union of the two king¬ 
doms ; for, though the sovereign was one, 
the people and the jurisprudence were not. 
And, whatever objections may be made to 
this union, experience has proved, that 
nothing ever happened so advantageous 
to both. 


From 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


85 


From this happy period hostilities gra¬ 
dually subsided ; and that generation, bred 
to rapine, dying away, posterity became 
humanized, the laws of protection and civil 
life assumed an energy, and property was 
secure on both sides of the Wall. 

Thus we have wandered through the 

o 

long series of fifteen hundred years; have 
seen the rise, meridian, and fall, of the 

grandest work ever produced by European 

\ 

hands; have observed, with a melancholy 
eye, the depraved state of human nature, 
the defection of law, of the power to pro* 
tect, and the instability of property; but, 
with a smile, have seen the termination 
of a quarrel, which had continued fifty 
generations. This short inference may be 
drawn from the whole : that protection on 
one side, and liberty and obedience on the 
other, are the foundations of all just 
government 


The 


86 


HISTORY OP 


The lively impression, however, of former 
scenes, did not wear out with the practice; 
for the children of this day upon the Eng¬ 
lish border keep up the remembrance by a 
common play, called Scotch and English 9 
or, The Raid (inroad). 

The boys of the village choose two 
captains out of their body. Each nomi¬ 
nates, alternately, one out of the little 
tribe. They then divide into two parties, 
strip, and deposit their clothes, called ivad 
(from weed), in two heaps, each upon their 
own ground, which is divided by a stone, 
as a boundary between the two kingdoms. 
Each then invades the other's territories; 
the English crying, “ here's a leap into thy 
land, dry-bellied Scot." He who can, 
plunders the other side. If one is caught 
in the enemies'jurisdiction, he becomes a 
prisoner, and cannot be released except by 

his 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


87 


his own party. Thus one side will some¬ 
times take all the men and property of the 
other. 

None but the most degraded in manners 
and character will ever upbraid another for 
his country.—As the place of his birth is 
not an act of choice, it cannot be a mark of 
disgrace. 


HAVING described the antient state of 
the Wall, and manners of the inhabitants, 
I shall now take the liberty of giving my 
introductory approach to this once grand 
object, and describe its present state. 

Thirteen months elapsed after we had 
resolved upon our journey, when our friends 
declined the adventure; but we, having fed 
upon the imaginary but delightful repast, 
could not relinquish it. 

I pro- 




88 


HISTORY OP 


I procured for myself the exclusive pri¬ 
vilege of walking ; which, of all the modes 
of travelling, I prefer. My daughter rode 
behind her servant; and we agreed not to 
impede each other on the way, but meet at 
certain inns, for refreshment and rest. 

I was dressed in black, a kind of religious 
travelling warrant, but divested of assum¬ 
ing airs ; and had a budget of the same 
colour and materials, much like a dragoon’s 
cartridge-box, or post-man’s letter pouch, 
in which were deposited the maps of Cum¬ 
berland, Northumberland, and the Wall, 
with its appendages; all three taken out of 
Gough’s edition of the Britannia; also 
Warburton’s map of the Wall, with my 
own remarks, &c. 

To this little pocket I fastened with a 
strap, an umbrella in a green case, for I was 
not likely to have a six weeks’ tour without 

wet. 


THE HOMAN WALL. 


89 


wet, and slung it over that shoulder which 
was the least tired.—And now, July the 
4th, 1801, we began our march. 

SUTTON. 

AT the end of eight miles,we arrived here, 
situated upon an eminence, pleasant and 
healthful. It is said, tc Ireland is free from 
venomous animalsthis is free from dirt. 
The town is neat, consists of two streets, or 
rather one, and the limb of another, form¬ 
ing a figure resembling the letter \ 7 , and is 
about one hundred and fifty yards long. It 
is silent as night ; except, as being a 
thoroughfare between Birmingham and 
the North, the inhabitants are entertained 
with the thunder of horses’ feet, and the 
rumbling of carriages. 


I was 




90 


HISTORY OP 


I was once asked by a grocer of this place, 
u If I could recommend him to a good 
wife ?”—“ It Is totally out of my way ; I 
had the fortune to procure a good one for 
myself, whom I value highly ; but have 
never traded in so precarious an article. 
But cannot you accommodate yourself at 
home ?” He replied, “ There is not one 
woman in Sutton that will suit me— 
whether the remark redounds to the honour 
of the fair sex, I leave to them. 


LICHFIELD 

* 

IS eight miles more; low, flat, and com¬ 
pact, consisting of fourteen short and dull 
streets, besides one that is long and lively, 
owing to its being the great road from 

London 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


91 


London to Ireland, and the West of Scot¬ 
land. Perhaps there are nine hundred 
houses. 

The cathedral is large, and grand ; and, 
as a national building, is a credit; but con¬ 
sidered as a place of divine worship, there 
is more of ostentation than of use; for the 
devotional part is small, compared to the 
remainder. The internal walls are in some 
places covered with green mould. Perhaps 
our pious ancestors thought their prayers 
would rise with double effect from stone 
fret work and gilt timber. Simplicity is 
characteristic of Christianity. We have 
reason to conclude, that the church of the 
Apostles was a private room, not worth ten 
shillings a year. 

I have been struck with an historical 
incident which occurred in the boisterous 
reign of Charles the First. The Close, in 

which 


92 


HISTORY OF 


which the cathedral stands, was a garrison 
for the King. Lord Brook, by order of 
parliament, besieged it; and while survey¬ 
ing the works, through the peep-hole in 
the side wall of a porch, belonging to a 
small house in Dam-street, his face was 
observed by a dumb gentleman upon the 
battlements of the great steeple, whose 
name was Dyott, of a respectable family 
* now in the neighbourhood; he levelled his 
piece, and, though I believe the distance 
is more than one hundred yards, shot him 
in the face and killed him. Mine has been 
at the hole, but (thank heaven !) in peace¬ 
able times. 

The porch is removed; but its dimem- 
sions are exactly marked upon the pave¬ 
ment. My late w orthy friend Mr. Greene, 
proprietor of an admirable cabinet of curi¬ 
osities, caused an inscription to be placed 

upon 


THE SOMAN WALL. 


93 


upon the wall, when he was chief magis¬ 
trate, to perpetuate the event. 


RUDGLEY, 

SEVEN miles, is low and level ; has, 
about four hundred houses, and con¬ 
sists of one street, extending about three 
quarters of a mile, which, like a pack¬ 
thread string, is length without width. 


STONE, 

' . « 

' -> ! I V ’ 

4 , 

FIFTEEN miles, a thorough-fare also 
of one street, like the former, and nearly 
as long, but better built, and about the 


i 


same 









94 HISTORY OF 

\ 

same number of houses. The accommoda¬ 
tions are good, and the people civil. 

A person of my appearance, and style of 
travelling, is so seldom seen upon the high 
road, that the crowds I met in my whole 

journey viewed me with an eye of wonder 

1 

and inquiry, as if ready to cry out “ Jn the 
name of the Father, &c. What ar’t!” and 
I have reason to believe, not a soul met me 
without a turn of the head, to survey the- 
rear as well as the front. 


NEWCASTLE UNDER LINE, 

NINE miles, is elevated, compact, well 
built, has ten streets, and one thousand and 
fifty houses; is smoak-dried by the surround¬ 
ing works. The Marquis of Stafford’s in¬ 
terest 

\ 

r* 4 i 

\ 


I 




t 


THE ROMAN WALL. 95 

% 

terest sends two members into the House of 
Commons, from whence their own some¬ 
times sends them into that of the Lords. 


HULME’S CHAPEL, 

SIXTEEN miles, a pretty smart church, 
inclosed in a smart square of about seven 
houses. The village consists of about twice 
that number, in a situation delightful. 


WARRINGTON, 

EIGHTEEN miles, a crowded pi ace, 
without room for a crowd to exert itself. It 
consists of fourteen streets, chiefly narrow; 

about 






96 


HISTORY OF 


about two thousand three hundred houses, 
and ten thousand five hundred persons. 
Their shops are so closely squeezed 
together, as scarcely to admit a customer. 

The most spacious street, but the worst 
built, is Old Warrington, the end of which 
joins the present town. This street was, 
about three hundred years ago, the whole 
of the place, to which the traveller was 
ferried over the river Mersey. But, Henry 
the Seventh expressing a wish to visit his 
mother, the Countess of Richmond, who 
had married the Earl of Derby, and resided 
at Latham, to facilitate the King's passage 
over the river, the Earl is said to have 
erected this bridge. Hence the present 
Warrington took its rise. The visit must 
have been long in agitation, for one year 
could not complete the work. 


PRES- 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


97 


PRESCOT, 

NINE miles, seems to have risen from 
an antient and obscure village to a mo¬ 
dern, handsome, and pleasant market- 
town, from its vicinity to Liverpool. It 
contains seven hundred and thirty-six 
houses ; and 3,465 inhabitants. 


LIVERPOOL, 

A PLACE of wonder! It is an old re¬ 
mark, “ That a spirited, active, and com- 
“ mercial people, who have seen the world, 
“ are more civilized and humane than 
“ those of recluse life.” When my daugh¬ 
ter and servant had nearly arrived at Li¬ 
verpool, they were caught in a shower, 

and 


H 






98 


HISTORY OF 


and obliged to dismount; one took shelter 
under a scaffold; the other, under a tree. 
The lady of the mansion invited man, wo¬ 
man, and horse, under cover, treated all 
three with the greatest hospitality, and, 
what was preferable, with a smile. 

We had been recommended to the King’s 
Arms in Water-street; but, though we 
could not be admitted, the master sent his 
servant to procure us an abode. 

The hill, as I descended to the town, 
abounded with windmills ; but the houses, 
afterwards, rising round them, I observed, 
had obliged them to shorten sail. The 
stranger is surprized to see the street 
crowded with shipping ! The stile of bu¬ 
siness is amazing, and is enough to ruin 
Bristol, and eclipse London* 

The sea seems about a mile over. The 

t 

churches are beautiful, the buildings grand, 

the 


/ 


THE ROMAN WALL. 99 

the Exchange a superb work. Here are 
580 streets, lanes, and courts, 11,784 
houses, and 77*653 persons, exclusive of 
sailors, about 4000. There arrived from the 
24th of June 1800, to the 24th of June 
1801, 5060 ships, which unloaded 489,719 
tons, and which paid dock dues 28,3651. 
8s. 2 d. Hence we infer a rich Corporation. 

I went on board a vessel of 500 tons, 
110 feet long, which was allowed to carry 
365 slaves. 

It is easy to discover, by the buildings 
and the streets, the old from the new part 
of the town. 

Among the curiosities I saw, was the fa¬ 
mous Dr. Solomon, whom I knew, many 
years ago, in very different circumstances. 
We should be apt to conclude, that man 
must sell a large quantity of health , who 
accumulates sixty thousand pounds by the 
sale, as it is said the Doctor has done. 

h 2 ORMS- 


I 


I 


100 HISTORY OF 

' 

m 

• " i . f i 

ORMSKIRK, 

THIRTEEN miles, consists of two 
streets, or four, if you please, for they 
cross at right angles, six hundred and 
fourteen houses, and 2554 inhabitants. 
The town is elevated and pleasant, the 
people agreeable, and the country de¬ 
lightful. 


- 

i 

PRESTON, 

TWENTY miles, a large, compact, and 
populous place, and one of the handsomest 
I ever saw, is in an elevated situation, and 
flourishing state, contains 2,231 houses 

and 








THE ROMAN WALL. 


101 


and 11,887 inhabitants. The market is 
thronged. 1 believe I saw at least 500 carts, 
which brought supplies. The market¬ 
place is beautiful. The inhabitants are 
said to be proud, which I did not observe, 
except in one person, dressed like a clergy¬ 
man, who refused a civil answer to the 
trifling inquiries of a stranger. I was 
pleased with Lord Derby’s house, an ele¬ 
gant building, with the conveniencies of a 
large town, and the prospects of a charm¬ 
ing country. 

\ 

’ . • • ; - ; . 'a''- -• IK 


GARSTANG, 

ELEVEN miles, has four streets, or ra¬ 
ther one, for the other three do not deserve 
the name; has sixty-eight houses, thirteen 




102 


HISTORY OF 


of which are public, and seven hundred and 
thirty-one souls. 

Our arrival was on the evening of the 
Fair-day, Saturday, July 11, 1801, which 
becoming rainy, we were amused from the 
windows with the country lasses, large as 
troopers, in their best array, with their 
garments tucked up to avoid the wet, 
which exhibited limbs of a gigantic size, 
well adapted for working, running, or 
kicking. The men also bore the same 
characteristics; and we could scarcely for¬ 
bear concluding, the human race was of a 
superior size. 



LAN- 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


103 


LANCASTER, 

ELEVEN miles, has about eleven streets 5 
sixteen hundred and eleven houses, of stone, 
and nine thousand and thirty inhabitants; 
is a genteel place, and abounds with ele¬ 
gant buildings ; but the streets are nar¬ 
row, according to the old fashion of street¬ 
making. Our ancestors built for them¬ 
selves ; they never thought of posterity. 
The Castle, which is in good repair, car¬ 
ries the face of antient grandeur. This, 
and the great church, are together, and on 
a high hill, which commands an extensive 
and beautiful view. I saw the foundation 
of TVery TVall, a Roman work, which 
seems to have surrounded the Castle-hill. 


i 


HEY- 




104 


HISTORY OF 


HEYSHAM, 

SIX miles, a watering place, its rocky 
promontory projecting into the sea, in¬ 
closed with wood. It has an admirable ef¬ 
fect upon the mind, when we burst upon it 
by turning the corner, in the road, half a 
mile distant. There are eighty houses, and 
three hundred and sixty-five inhabitants. 
It will probably rise into esteem, for here 
we find united, the mild aspect of Eng¬ 
land, with the rough hand of Nature 
which is spread over North Wales. These 
rude parts are capable of great improve¬ 
ment. 

Upon the crown of a rock, joining the 
church-yard, is a flat, thirty yards diame¬ 
ter, which precipitates into the sea, where 

stand 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


105 


stand the remains of a chapel. In this re¬ 
pository of the dead was taken up a stone 
coffin, which now lies above ground, and 
seems to fit a corpse five feet ten, and to 
have stood the test of a thousand years. 
A hollow is cut in the hard grit, for the 
head, neck, shoulders, &c. 

Up on this bare rock is a level part, six 
yards by three and a half, in which have 
been cut six hollows, or coffins, in a row, 
in the form of the human body, about 
twelve inches deep, with a groove round 
each, to admit a lid. This was probably 
the depositary of one family, who, instead 
of sinking , may be said to rise into the 
grave. The West side of this rock is 
washed by the waves, and elevated about 
fifty feet above them. These receptacles 
of the dead look like half a dozen mum¬ 
mies, in rank. 


At 


106 


HISTORY OF 


At Hey sham we meant to fix our head- 
quarters for bathing; but our road over 
the sands leading us to Hest Hank, we 
marched, after a stay of two nights. 


HEST BANK, and KENT SANDS, 

SIX miles along the shore brought us 
to this place, a small hamlet three miles 
North of Lancaster, of very few' houses; 
but chiefly one, and that for the reception 
of company, who visit for pleasure, or sea¬ 
bathing. 

As strangers w^e felt a small degree of 
anxiety about crossing the Kent Sands, an 
arm of the sea, w hich lay at our feet, and 
which w^e designed to attempt the next 
morning. The Guide told us they w^ere 

twelve 




10/ 


THE HOMAN WALL. 

twelve miles over, some said eleven, others 
nine ; but the real truth, I believe, is eight. 

We agreed with our landlord to take us 
over for five shillings, and some grog, 
though the carrier’s price is eighteen 
pence without grog. Our vehicle was a 
little cart, in which was slung a chair and 
cushion that would hold two people, with 
a bag of straw by way of mat for the feet. 

We were drawn by something in the 
form of a little horse, which had almost 
learnt to live without eating, and of whose 
ability we had some doubt. 

These sands, to the distant eye, appear 
level; but are very uneven. Every tide 
changes their face, and leaves hills and 
vallies. Whatever marks of feet, or wheels, 
are left in the vacancy of one tide, are 
washed out hy the next. Nor has the 
stranger any object before him for a guide, 

because 


108 


HISTORY 03? 


because his journey is curved like a bow. 
A few bushes are pricked into the sands to 
direct the traveller; but they are small, 
and the line is often broken. The spring- 
tides rise about nineteen feet. 

The eye, continually moving forwards, 
and engaged upon the same flat object as 
the sands are, is apt to cause a giddiness 
in the head. This was experienced by my 
daughter, with me in the cart, and the ser¬ 
vant who followed the track. 

Two rivers, from the mountains, run 
along the sands, the Kiev , and the Kent , 
which frequently change their course ; 
sometimes they are several miles asunder, 
and at others, both run in one bed, accord¬ 
ing to the caprice of the waves. 

We found the water up to the ancles a 
great part of the way. When we had 
passed about a mile, we crossed the Kier, 

a brisk 


/ 


THE ROMAN WALL. 109 

a brisk stream, upon a wide and flat bot¬ 
tom, reaching to the calf of the leg. Near 
the North shore, six or seven miles farther, 
we crossed the Kent. We requested the 
Guide, who had passed over and waited 
for us, to go before. It took his horse full 
to the knee. 

He appeared a civil and intelligent vete¬ 
ran, who had stood the cold blast, had 
passed between wind and water forty years, 
and knew to an inch whether his horse 
must walk or swim. He was extremely 
willing to attend, and it would have been 
unkind not to have rewarded him. During 
our short time together, he gave us the 
history of his profit, and employment. 
His annual allowance from Government is 
ten pounds six and eightpence, and a piece 
of land for his horse, worth nine pounds 
more; the rest is the uncertain perquisite 

of 


110 


HISTORY OF 


of the stranger. His emoluments, he re¬ 
marked, had much declined since the stage¬ 
coaches ran, because they not only conveyed 
passengers, who would otherwise have rode, 
but carriages and horse-men generally at¬ 
tended the stage, for their own safety; this 
we had remarked during our short stay. 

The general voice of the country is, 
u the passage is safe/’ and I believe a man 
may pass it a thousand times without in¬ 
jury ; but I think, to venture over once in 
his life for pleasure is enough; for, if he 
is obliged to finish his journey in a given 
time, there must be danger.. As there is 
no road, he is liable to be lost. He may 
be caught in a fog, or in the night. If on 
foot, he may wade half the way, and be re¬ 
tarded ; if on horse-back, his horse may 
fail him, or he fall sick; if in a carriage, it 
may break down, and he lamed; any acci¬ 
dent 


THE HOMAN WALE. 


Ill 


\ V 

dent brings him into a dangerous situation, 
besides the evil of being caught in a storm 
without shelter. 

Our landlord, who pretended to under¬ 
stand the passage well, was not, we could 
perceive, guided so much by his own judg¬ 
ment, as by the mark of the stage-wheels, 
which had passed an hour before us; and 
wherever they were obliterated, he could 
not rest, but turned to the right, or left, 
till he found them, and rejoiced with us 
when the Guide came to meet us. 

In an hour and forty minutes, however, 
and five hundred lashes, instead of corn, 
given to the poor horse, we were not dis¬ 
pleased to arrive at the opposite shore. 
We were so charmed at the situation of 
Hest Bank , that we determined, on our 

return from the Lakes, and the Wall, to 

e v ' , ** 

order our chattels from Heysham, make 
this our abode, and proceed thither by land; 

NEWBY- 


112 


HISTORY OF 


NEWBY-BRIDGE, at the foot of 
WINDERMERE, 

EIGHTEEN miles from Hest Bank. 
At the end of twelve miles, we passed 
through the little, but beautiful town of 
Cartmel, in a rich country; there are one 

i 

hundred and forty houses, and 882 inha¬ 
bitants, who occupy four streets. The 
church is noble. The town is the pro. 

I 

perty of Lord John Cavendish, whose resi¬ 
dence is near. Six miles from hence to 
Newby-Bridge, an agreeable inn, and five 
houses; a sweet spot, nearly surrounded by 
•the water of Windermere, where it quits 
the name of Lake, and becomes a river, 
nearly the size of the Derwent at Derby. 

I had now to walk up this charming 

/ * 

Lake, in one of the finest mornings Na¬ 
ture 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


113 


ture ever made, upon one of the best roads 
ever constructed, though uneven, and com¬ 
posed of the best materials the earth could 
produce. 

To form an idea of the scene before me, 

§ 

the stranger may imagine to himself a val¬ 
ley between two mountains, which range 
parallel to each other, and extend more 
than twelve miles, and whose summits of 
barren rock are about four miles asunder. 
Their declivities are woody, and sometimes 
rough; sprinkled with farms in high culti¬ 
vation, of perhaps one hundred acres each, 
and houses which indicate plenty and ease. 
The bottom, which is from one to three 
miles over, is the height of rural beauty, 
extending to the verge of the Lake, and 
consisting of woods, fertile meadows, and 
gentlemen’s seats. In this centre lies the 
charming; Lake, whose surface was as 

i smooth, 

•f 


114 


HISTORY OF 


smooth, pleasant, and clear, as a looking- 
glass, with a smiling face before it. Not 
a breath of air to cause a wrinkle, but a 
bright sun illuminated the view. If an 
assemblage of mountains, romantic rocks, 
extensive prospects, fertile valleys, orna¬ 
mental woods, elegant seats, with a grand 
expanse of water, can complete a landscape, 
it may be found here. 

The Lake is said to be ten miles and a 
half long ; I have reason to think it is 
twelve, and from a quarter of a mile to 
one mile and a half wide, not varying 
much from a strait line. The head, near 
Ambleside, seems as wide as any other 
part; but the foot, at Newby-Bridge, is 
narrow. 

Exclusive of its original source, which 
is in the Kirkstone mountains, it is sup¬ 
plied perhaps by a thousand rills from the 

surrounding: 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


115 


surrounding eminences, some deserving the 
name of River , some Cascade , but all clear 
as crystal; which proves that this grand 
reservoir is composed of rock-water. I 
saw a clear bottom at twelve feet deep. 

There are many islands, chiefly on the 
upper part. One of forty-two acres, the 
property of Mr. Curwen, converted into 
pleasure ground, and which merits the 
name of an earthly paradise. I visited this 
delightful spot; examined every part, after 
delivering in my name; and though 1 
could not call it mine, 1 could enjoy its 
beauties as well as the owner. 

Near the centre, upon a rising ground, 
is a new and expensive house, which 1 
have heard censured as void of taste; but 
I see no error except its singularity. We 
are apt to find fault with the ways of an¬ 
other when they differ from our own; this 
implies a compliment to our judgment. 

i 2 In 



116 HisTOEt or 

In a cove formed by the Lake, and a re¬ 
cess formed by the mountains, is situated 
the pretty village of Boicness 3 having about 
forty houses. Here we dined, in the sum¬ 
mer-house ; took an excursion upon the 
water to see a boat-race, which collected 
the whole country; but the rain put a stop 
to the farce. 

Our route still continued up the border 
of the Mere. I frequently ascended the 
rocks on my right, to improve my view of 
this grand expanse of water, which gave 
me a prospect of six or eight miles. Some¬ 
times the road led me nearly level with 
the water; at others, one or two hundred 
yards above it: again, I was within a few 
yards of its margin, and afterwards found 
myself three hundred yards distant. 

At the head of Windermere, near 
bleside , is a fortification, which the people 

call 


THE ROMAN WALL. 11^ 

call a Homan Station . This is an error 
into which they have been led by the great 
Camden ; who, because Amboglana , a real 
Roman Station, had some affinity of sound 
with Ambleside, concluded this was the 
place; and though it afterwards appeared 
to appertain to Burdoswald, yet the world 
could not quit the idea. It probably has 
been a Roman castle, and the place is ex¬ 
tremely well adapted for one, as it com¬ 
mands a pass through the mountains. The 
buildings are totally gone ; and it was 
with difficulty I could find the remains of 
the old ramparts and ditches. I apprehend 
it was one of the out-guards to the Wall. 


AMBLE- 


118 


HISTORY OF 


I 

l 


AMBLESIDE, 

FIFTEEN miles, a small scattered mar¬ 
ket-town, surrounded by romantic views; 
but the place is without form or comeli¬ 
ness, smothered with mountains ; to which 
I shall add nothing, except my gratitude 
for the attention paid us. 

From hence we ascend a very long and 
steep hill, called Kirkstone ; which, for 
five miles, is a remarkably rough and stony 
road. Camden might, with the shadow of 
plausibility, have derived the name of Am- 
bleside from this road, being so extremely 
bad, that the traveller can scarcely amble 
along, and, lying by its side . 

Rising and descending this hill, brought 
us to Patterdale, where is a pool in the 

valley. 


i 






THE ROMAN WALL. 


119 


valley, half a mile square, called Broad - 

TViter; which, had it been alone, might 

• • 

have excited notice ; but, situated between 
two grand Lakes, Windermere and Ulls- 
Water, which raise the wonder of the tra¬ 
veller, it excites none. 


ULLS-WATER. 

THIS is the sister lake to Windermere, 
and, like that, is composed of rock-water, 
clear as crystal, and well tasted. It is up¬ 
wards of eight miles long. The average 

/ 

width is perhaps three-quarters of a mile, 
and the depth from thirty to one hundred 
and twenty yards. The road is on the left 
bank, good, and shaded with trees; and 
the Lake fed by a great number of rills, 
tumbling from the mountains on the left. 

On 




120 


HISTORY OP 


On the right, or opposite bank, the rocky 
mountains for several miles dip into the 
water, shew, above, their barren sides, and 
are strangers to cultivation. They after¬ 
wards soften into verdure, are less elevated, 
with inclosures of beautiful farms down to 
the lower end, which terminates in a river 
called the Emont , at Pooley-Bridge. 

i 

On the left side, pursuing our road, we 
first pass a handsome house, in a recess, 
or glen, the property of William Moun- 
sey, Esq. a gentleman of wealth and cha¬ 
racter, on whom the world has conferred 
the title of King of Patterdale. 

The next building is Lyulph’s Castle, a 
neat little building; and Garbarrow Park, 
both the property of the Duke of Norfolk. 
The Castle is beautiful, the grounds ne¬ 
glected. Then, the Seat of-Ro¬ 

binson, Esq. 


At 



THE ROMAN WALL. 


121 


At Pooley-Bridge, the foot of the Lake, 
is a high circular hill called Dunmallard, 
upon which are the remains of a Roman 
castle and fortification. The situation is 
suitable for guarding the defile. This is 
another out-guard to the Wall. 

Four miles short of Penrith, we pass 
the charming premises of William Has¬ 
sell, Esq. of Dalemain. 


PENRITH, 

TWENTY-FIVE miles from Amble- 
side, is a handsome and spirited town, with 
about thirteen streets, six hundred and 
ninety houses, and 3801 people. It 
lies in a flat, through which runs a ri¬ 
vulet, and is situated under the Beacon- 
hill. A mile to the South, runs the Emont. 

We 




122 


HISTORY OF 


We read in an old author, that “ Perith 
cc is sixty miles South of Carlisle.” The 
traveller will find it near eighteen. This 
shews the necessity of correct history. 

We visited, like other strangers, The 
Giant's Grave , of which no certain ac¬ 
count is given, either by tradition, or his¬ 
tory. It lies on the North, within four or 
five yards of the Church. One stone stands 
at the head, and another at the feet, not 
shaped alike, thick as a moderate human 
body, twelve feet high, and fourteen asun¬ 
der, ornamented with carvings, which time 
has nearly obliterated. The sides of the 
Grave are bordered with semi-circular 
stones, two feet high, wrought in the 
same manner. 

Blind tradition ascribes this Grave to 
Sir Ewan Caesar, said to have been as tall 
as the columns, who killed the wild boars, 

and 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


123 


and robbers In Inglewood Forest, of which 
Penrith is a part. 

This Grave was opened about forty-five 
years ago, but nothing found. The stones 
were replaced. It was opened also about a 
century prior to that, when, it is said, the 
large bones of a man’s hand were found, 
and a broad-sword. If this be true, why 
has the tradition of the inhabitants lost it, 
and why was not the sword preserved ? 

The appearance of the stones, however, 

* 

stamps an age of five hundred years, at 
least, upon the Grave. 

The Castle, upon a delightful spot, is in 

* • 

ruins. This was another guard against 
that patroling enemy, the Scots; who, in 
the 19th of Edward the Third, 1346, 
burnt the town; and again in the next 
reign, the eighth of Richard the Second. 

Richard the Third, while Duke of Glou¬ 
cester, 


124 


HISTORY OP 

cester, repaired the Castle; and resided 
there, to keep the marauders quiet, which 
had the desired effect. 

Here I parted with my daughter, who 
bore to the left for the residue of the Lakes; 
and I to the right, for the Wall. 

The first eight miles towards Carlisle, is 
one continued common of excellent land. 
Pity the times do not call it into cultiva¬ 
tion ! The road is fine and most beautiful, 
♦ 

* 


CARLISLE, 

EIGHTEEN miles, a city with which 
I was much pleased. There are thirteen 
streets, thirteen hundred and thirty-eight 
houses, and 10,220 inhabitants. The streets 
are rather more spacious than are generally 
found in ancient cities. 












Map of the 

ROMAN WALL. 



West JVirfcot 


W 'unit //• 


. rum 


i -Jr/torr ^ 
fiDgjito/i fa 

Blmkuiftrp 

■ f . Gif: 


>man 


Henshaw 


OLd^’ W*' 

j'fWiIf Town , 
Jfw/h ear/^^ 

/// 11 a ba «< 

7 RwT'QyteT" 


in Rowcf//} 


1 e/iio/iAfill ' 


le/M wont ('/( 


Haug/tton 


/’({uu* 7 i \fhstie 


Camicfe/ 


•Of Eacton 


Scale or'Miles 


^.tr/t/o/fAi 


,/' A V Oimm Vv-o^ 

;\' l V . :?■=» 



zlSrunton *■ Lit 

Whittington 

•#^4. mijc kotiSO P^jgY 

L L ^ <,wMoe T/ .IKomnn 'Walton, ••' Ho tut, 

New&n 


Broun /Mr. r <K k • 'fyp 4 * / 

x /' - ! t VaO 6555 ^®* 

"" ’ $»£ W 

i; ^ ^ Jfcirito/. 

CJnvtirJFooti / Jliiarn/ey 

• mn<- 

OUrr/ 


Jfav atSeS lCn’ ken 






































THE ROMAN WALL. 


125 


I am now arrived at the long-wished-for 
Wall. New scenes, and a new task must 
open. I must appear in the character of 
an exciseman, with an ink-bottle at my 
bosom, and a book in my hand; must meet 
and dine in public with a supervisor, who 
could not conceive “ to what district I 
belonged/ 7 and was too timid, from my 
appearance, to ask. 

I crossed the Eden to Stanwix, a Station, 
where I slept; then penetrated down to 
Boulness, the extremity of the Wall; re¬ 
turned through Carlisle, and Newcastle, 
to the Wall's end, then down again to 
Carlisle,w here I first entered. But although 
I travelled the Wall twice, 1 cannot give 
two descriptions, lest I confuse the ideas of 
a reader; but I shall begin at the Walks 
end, as all my predecessors have done, and 
proceed to Boulness. 


THE 


126 


HISTOEY OF 


THE 




FIRST STATION, 


Segedunum ; 

? 

j 

or the 

Wall’s End. 

When part of a building remains, w£ 

can sometimes comprehend the whole; 
but where nothing is left, conjecture is 
hazardous. This is our present case. No 
buildings are left in this Station, or any 
other, to guide the judgment. The spot, 
now a green pasture, about four acres, three 
miles and a half below Newcastle, gently 
declines to the river Tyne; is uneven, as 
having been covered with buildings. At 
the top of this green pasture, and parallel 

with 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


127 


with the water, runs Severus’s Ditch; so 
that the Station lies between both. 

From the beginning of Severus’s Ditch, 
to the water, the Wall, now gone, must 
have made a right angle, perhaps eighty 
yards or more, to the Tyne, so that this 
cross Wall would also make a right angle 

with the river. Here stood the Castle. The 

• > • 

North corner of the Wall must have been 
where now stands a cottage, and have en¬ 
tered the water at what they call a trunk, 
or high timber bridge. 

I could not learn from tradition, that 
time had made any alterations in the tides. 
As securing this end of the Wall must have 
been a point of some magnitude, I have 
no doubt but the Romans took the ad¬ 
vantage of low water, to form their hut¬ 
ment as deep as circumstances would allow. 
Here w r e see a town full of streets and 

4, 

houses. 


128 


HISTORY of 


houses, immured in stone walls ; whete 
every man, though a soldier, might, when 
not upon duty, follow his occupation. 

The Bank and Ditch are nearly com¬ 
plete ; the last is ten yards wide. Pro¬ 
ceeding two hundred yards, it passes a 
house, late Cousen’s, now belonging to 
John Baddle, Esq. Then Slate’s house, 

to a stile in the valley. Now we rise a 

♦ 

hill, with the Wall under the very path we 
tread. The ditch twelve yards wide. Along 
a close called Old Walker’s-Hill. Byker’s 
Hill. A hedge now runs in the Ditch, a 
part of which, this year, for the first time, 
is levelled, and converted into a bed of 
potatoes, which the proprietors will allow 
gratis, during three years, to any one who 
will level, and improve the ground. This is 
the taste of the neighbourhood for the grand- 
est piece of antiquity in the whole Island. 

• The 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


129 


The Ditch now leaves a windmill close 
on the right, crosses the road from New¬ 
castle to Shields, about thirty yards North 
of the toll gate. Goes down the steep hill 
called Ewsburn, and up to another wind¬ 
mill. Over Shield-field, where, by the 
name, I suppose a mile-castle has stood, 
and where the whole is invisible. 

We now enter Newcastle, leaving a 
small part of the town on the right, or 

i 

North side ; but inclosing the principal, 
and perhaps the whole, when the works 
were erected. Its passage through these 
premises is unseen; but it must have been 
up and down steep hills, till we arrive at 
Pan don Gate. 

During this space of three miles and a 
half, Sever us’s Ditch is plainer, nearly all 
the way, than could be expected in so 
populous a country. Not the least remains 

of 


K 


130 


HISTORY O? 

« 

of the Wall, Castles, or Turrets, are to be 

t i. 

seen. 

At the Wall’s end the first cohort had 
their station. 


THE 


SECOND STATION. 


Pons jElii ; 


now 


Newcastle. 

Here i must follow my predecessors* 
who all through this populous town groped 
their way in the dark. Busy life ruins 
antiquity. The faithful Warburton will 
lead me along this crowded place, where 
nothing of the Roman is seen; after which 

I shall 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


131 


I shall be able to walk alone, and perhaps 
correct my leader. 

Though we are arrived at Pandon-gate, 
I apprehend we are not arrived at the 
Station, but a gate in the town wall, where 
a turret of the Roman Wall once stood. 
Pandon, in the time of the Romans, and for 
ages after, was a distinct village, and given 
to Newcastle by Edward the First. 

Warburton proves that Severus’s Wall 
lies a little to the North of St. Nicholas’s 
church; that the Wall, which passes 
through the church porch, was the Eastern 
wall of the Station itself, and that of Severus 
was the Northern ; thus having found two 
walls of this great square, the other two 
will follow. Fie justly allows the medium 

of a station to be an area of one hundred 

/ 

and thirty six yards square ; which, in this 
case, will reach near the present castle. 
This points out the Station. 

K 2 “ There 


132 


HISTORY OF 


“ There are/’ says my hostess, where . 
I applied for a dinner, “ some gentlemen 
to dine here : should you have any objec¬ 
tion to dine with them ?” 

“ Not the least, Madam. I am open 
to all kinds of company.” 

My landlord afterwards applied : “ Per¬ 
haps, Sir, you would chuse to dine in this 
room alone, upon a dish of fish, and a beef 
steak ?” 

“ No. 1 have agreed with my landlady 
to dine with some gentlemen.” 

I waited longer than the promise ; saw 
dinner taken in; but no notice taken of me. 
Disappointment is irksome. “ Why am I 
not,” said I to the waiter, u summoned to 
dinner?” “ I will inform you.” — The 

J 

notice came. 

1 found seven gentlemen fully employed , 
and a niche left for an eighth. 

t 

I was 


! 


133 


THE ROMAN WALL. 

\ 

I was treated with a distant respect; and 
a small degree of awe governed the whole 
board. 

Dinner over; they requested me to re¬ 
turn thanks. Which done;—“ You seem, 
gentlemen, to take me for a clergyman; 
but I assure you I am in a far preferable 
state; for I am a freeman , which a great 
part of the Clergy are not. I have nothing 
to expect from any man but common 
civility, which I wish to return with 
interest; but he who is under promises, 
expectations, or even wishes, his senti¬ 
ments perhaps may not be his own, and 
he cannot be deemed free.” 

Their countenances brightened. 

“ I have,” says one of the gentlemen, 
cc seven relations in the Church. 

“ Then, Sir, if you are an independent 
man, are not you the happiest of eight ?” 


It 


HISTORY OF 


134 

It seemed, their apprehensions of. my 
black dress, from which they were glad to 
be freed, had nearly deprived me of a dinner. 

One of the gentlemen gave, (C The 
King’s friends !” To this, though I am 
no votary for healths, I made no objection ; 
for a friend vyill not lead a man wrong. 
But afterwards entering upon indelicate 
healths,which neither suited the prayer they 
had requested, nor my pursuits, I withdrew. 

The Wall passes near the West gate, 
and proceeds on our right towards the 
turnpike. Not many yards before we reach 
the gate, it crosses the road, and passes 
through an inclosure, twenty yards on our 
left; and not through the Quarry-house, 
which is close to the turnpike road on our 
right. 

The works of Agricola and Hadrian, 
forty yards more to the left, make their ap r 


pearance 


t 


THE ROMAN WALL. 135 

pearance for the first time; but in a faint 
degree. These works run twenty yards 
South of Elswick windmill, a little short of 
the first mile-stone ; and Severus’s Wall is 
the very turnpike road on which we tread; 
it is the great, beautiful, and the famous 
Roman military way, first formed, I believe, 
by Agricola, improved by Severus, and 
brought into its present state by George 
the Second ; and though it does not attend 
the whole line of the Wall, it communicates 
between Newcastle and Carlisle. I shall 
continue to walk for many miles upon the 
Wall as part of the turnpike road, with 
small variations, and Severus’s Ditch at 
my right elbow. 

We leave, on the right, Fen ham Lodge, 
the seat of William Orde, Esq.; and on 
the left, that of Robinson Bowes, Esq. 

All our Historians have failed in two 




136 


HISTORY OF 


points : they have not given us the dimen¬ 
sions of the mile-castles, which always 
joined the Wall, and were from twenty- 

( * v 

two to twenty-four yards square; nor dis¬ 
tinguished the works of Agricola from 
those of Hadrian; but have confused both, 
under the name of the latter. 

There were four different works in this 
grand barrier, performed by three perso¬ 
nages, and at different periods. I will mea¬ 
sure them from South to North, describe 
them distinctly, and appropriate each part 
to its proprietor; for, although every part 
is dreadfully mutilated, yet, by selecting 
the best of each, we easily form a whole; 
from what is we can nearly tell what ivcis. 
We must take our dimensions from the 
original surface of the ground. 

Let us suppose a ditch, like that at the 
foot of a quickset hedge, three or four feet 

deep, 


THE HOMAN WALL. 


13 ^ 


deep, and as wide. A bank rising from it, 
ten feet high, and thirty wide in the base. 
This, with the ditch, will give us a rise of 
thirteen feet at least. The other side of 
this bank sinks into a ditch ten feet deep, 
and fifteen wide, which gives the North 
side of this bank a declivity of twenty feet. 
A small part of the soil thrown out on the 
North side of this fifteen feet ditch, forms 
a bank three feet high, and six wide, 
which gives an elevation from the bottom 
of the ditch, of thirteen feet. Thus our 
two ditches, and two mounds, sufficient to 
keep out every rogue but he who was de¬ 
termined not to be kept out, were the 
work of Agricola. 

The works of Hadrian invariably join 
those of Agricola. They always correspond 
together, as beautiful parallel lines. Close 
to the North side of the little bank I last 

described, 


I 


138 HISTORY OF 

described, Hadrian sunk a ditch twenty- 
four feet wide, and twelve below the sur¬ 
face of the ground ; which, added to Agri¬ 
cola’s three feet bank, forms a declivity of 
fifteen feet on the South, and on the 
North, twelve. Then follows a plain of 
level ground, twenty-four yards over, and 
a bank exactly the same as Agricola’s, ten 
feet high, and thirty in the base; and then 
he finishes, as his predecessor began, with 
a small ditch of three or four feet. 

Thus the two works exactly coincide; 
and must, when complete, have been most 
grand and beautiful. Agricola’s works 
cover about fifty-two feet, and Hadrian’s 
about eighty-one ; but this will admit of 
some variation. 

The annexed Plate shews, 

1. Agricola’s Work, with the number 
of feet. 

2. Agri- 


I’u/.i. A(tRJ( OLA S WOKK,^ 0ze number cf feet. 



I 


# 


A/^.aAGRICOLA, and HADRIAN, untied . 



JFig.3. SEVERITS’S ’WALL, arts] DITCH, in fro Me. 



p. 738. 




















THE ROMAN WALL. 139 

2. Agricola and Hadrian united. 

3. Severus’s Wall and Ditch in profile. 

Severus's works run nearly parallel with 

the other two; lie on the North, never far 
distant; but may be said always to keep 
them in view, running a course that best 
suited the judgment of the maker. The 
nearest distance is about twenty yards, and 
greatest near a mile, the medium forty or 
fifty yards. 

They consist of a stone wall eight feet 
thick, twelve high, and four, the battle¬ 
ments ; with a ditch to the North, as near 
as convenient, thirty-six feet wide and fif¬ 
teen deep. To the Wall were added, at 
unequal distances, a number of Stations, or 
Cities, said to be eighteen, which is not 
perfectly true ; eighty-one castles, and 
three hundred and thirty castelets, or tur¬ 
rets, which I believe is true: all joining 
the Wall. 


Exclu- 


140 


HISTORY OP 


Exclusive of this Wall and ditch, these 
Stations, castles, and turrets, Severus con¬ 
stituted a variety of roads yet called J?o- 
man Roads , twenty-four feet wide, and 
eighteen inches high in the centre, which 
led from turret to turret, from one castle 
to another, and still larger, and more dis¬ 
tant roads from the Wall, which led from 

\ S 

one Station to another, besides the grand 
military way before mentioned, which co¬ 
vered all the works, and no doubt was first 
formed by Agricola, improved by Hadrian, 
and, after lying dormant fifteen huudred 
years, was made complete in 1752. 

I saw many of these smaller roads, all 
overgrown 'with turf ; and, when on the 
side of a hill, they are supported on the 
lower side with edging stones. 

Thus Agricola formed a small ditch, 
then a bank and ditch, both large, and 
then finished with a small bank. 


Hadrian 


THE ROMAN WALL, 


141 


Hadrian joined to this small bank a 
large ditch, then a plain, a large mound, 
and then finished with a small ditch. 

Severus followed nearly in the same line, 

wi th a wall, a variety of stations, castles, 

» 

turrets, a large ditch, and many roads. 
By much the most laborious task. This 
forms the whole works of our three re¬ 
nowned Chiefs. 


/ . 

v 4 r/ — 

Til E 


142 


HISTORY OF 


THE 


THIRD STATION 



_A S/m7e of 200 Ytirdr. 
\C ^ 1 0() 


dams; 




00 


p. 142 


X HAVE now travelled five miles and a 
half from the Wall’s end ; two from New¬ 
castle ; and arrived by the military way 
upon a very considerable eminence, suit¬ 
able 

































THE KOMAN WALL. 143 

able for a Roman Station. Severus’s ditch 
is close on my right, and 1 upon the foun¬ 
dation of the Wall, as part of the turnpike 
road ; its bare stones under my feet are 
frequently distinguishable from those used 
for mending the road. 

But the Station totally disappears, ex¬ 
cept a roughness on the ground, which 
shews what has been ; while Agricola and 
Hadrian’s works lie on my left, between 
me and the village, which contains two 
hundred and . three houses, and nine 
hundred and fifty-one people. 

The Station was very large. The cor¬ 
ners, rather canted off, had four entrances 
answering to the four Cardinal Points. 
The country and prospects are delightful, 
and the land good. 

I now pass, on my left, another house 
of Mr. Orde’s. 



A 


144 


HISTORY OF 


At Denton Dean, or West Denton, situa¬ 
ted at the bottom of Benwell Hill, the great 
road veers a few yards to the right, that is, 
into Severus’s ditch, and gives us for the 
first time a sight of that most venerable piece 
of antiquity, The TV all, which is six yards 
South of the road, and twenty short of the 
brook I am going to pass. The fragment 
is thirty-six feet long, has three courses of 
facing stones on one side, and four on the 
other, and is exactly nine feet thick. An 
apple-tree grows upon the top, as shewn 
in the Plate annexed. 

The eye can easily trace the line over 
the water, and unite it to the opposite bank. 

Before we leave this village of ninety 
houses, the Wall again becomes the road, 
and the ditch is at my right elbow. 

At the three-mile stone from New¬ 
castle, I leave on my right the seat of 
Matthew Montague, Esq. 


Hadrian’s 



wifie, Sc S7/?^7l . 


lit LX. , 

vnlh art -.4ppfc Thee </?xnn7u/ zzptm i/s J'urzanil. 






































. 












■ 

- 




• ■ ■ • • • * ’'IH 




t . V'- 
















, 































THE ROMAN WALL. 


145 


Hadrian’s work is now fifty yards on 
my left. 

At the fourth mile-stone, I arrive at 
Chapel-house, then Castle Steads, where 
there has no doubt been a mile castle; the 
situation, as well as the name, corroborates 
the remark. Fifty yards on my left, down 
a green pasture, run, in bold figures, the 
united works of Agricola and Hadrian, 
dressed in about half their antient gran¬ 
deur ; and, having this clue, we can trace 
them over the inclosures for many miles. 

A little short of the fifth mile-stone is 
Wallbottle. 

At the stone, Hadrian is thirty yards on 
my left, I upon the Wall. 

Newburn Dean is nearly at the sixth 
mile-stone. Here, climbing a bank, to gain 
a better view of my valuable companions, 
I stumbled, and, to save myself, caught at 

l a haw- 


146 


HISTORY Otf 


a hawthorn hedge, when, like a Knight of 
Ulster, I bore the bloody hand. 

Pass Throcklow. My two friends Agri¬ 
cola and Hadrian are forty yards on my 
left. 

At the seventh mile-stone is Hadden- 
on-tlie-Wal!. The road here, as is usual 
at a village, takes a small turn to the 
right; it goes up the bank, and leaves 
Severus’s ditch close to my left, and his 
Wall a yard high; but in a confused heap. 

There must have been here a mile castle. 

• 

One hundred yards passed, I again tread 
>0 

the Wall, with the ditch on my right. 

Near the eighth mile-stone is the seat 
of Calverley Bewick, Esq. Here Hadrian 
assumes a little more consequence ; and 
now we finish our third Station. 

a.. { W ' •• 1 


THE 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


147 




THE 


FOURTH STATION. 


» ? 


1 




TEKDOBAIA; 


* . f 






Rixtcl lritci-. 


i/O 


ft r 
'\ 


Seve/is-id’ 


Wttir . 




’ i 




North 


Ac/gei\ 


f > 


p- M/ 


SeVERUS’s Wall seems to pass through 
this Station. What remains is a close, 

• * # - • i • * 

joining the road, of five acres, now in 
grass, and eminently situated; carries the 
strong marks of former buildings, and still 

l 2 stronger 





























f 


148 HISTORY OF 

stronger of its ramparts. The platform of 
this grand Station is complete. 

I have all along inquired for turrets ; 
but might as well have inquired among 
the stars. I was given to understand, that 
part of one was remaining here. The mas¬ 
ter told, me, “ I might find it at the back 
of his buildings.” 

Upon examining something like a cow¬ 
house, I perceived a small part was Ro¬ 
man work, which might have been part of 
the hutment of the castle, but could not 

N , i 

be a turret, for they always stood in front. 

I saw old Sir at dinner sit. 

Who ne’er said, cc Stranger, take a bit,” 
Yet might, although a Poet said it. 

Have sav’d his beef, and rais’d his credit. 

' 9 1 1 • « ^; * i i * k 

This old City and suburbs were ex ten- 

ur • „ , * *\ • m * * 

eive, and lie in the junction of four roads. 

Down 


/ 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


149 


Down in the valley, at the ninth mile¬ 
stone, I come to a cottage worth twenty 
shillings a year.—* u Pray what is the name 
of your place ?” “ High Seats.” “ What, 
because of its low situation ? You have 
found a place in history, only from a dig¬ 
nified name.” 

Here the General, and the Emperor, 
wear so strong a feature, that all their 
works may be traced sixty yards on my left. 

I am now arrived at Harlow Hill, ten 
miles and a half from Newcastle, remark¬ 
ably high. I again bear to the right, and 
tread, through the town-street, on Severus’s 
ditch, the Wall passing through the houses 
on my left. 

On the highest part stood a mile castle, 
now a garden, surrounded by its own 
rampart, very plain. I was shewn a large 
ash tree, which grew upon the very Wall, 

recently 


150 


HISTORY OF 

recently blown up by the root, and now 
rears up like a round pancake, eight feet 
high, and has drawn after it a ton of stones 
from the Wall, still clinging and Interwoven 
with the root. A brother tree stands near 
it, waiting for another blast. 

The road is charming. The traveller 
views it two miles each way. It appears 
like a white ribbon upon a green ground. 

Soliciting a bed, I was ushered into a 
parlour, where sat three gentlemen. I did 
not conceive I had a right to intrude, so 
took my place at the greatest distance. A 
suspicious silence immediately surrounded 
their little table. As I never made a secret 
of myself, or the plan I was pursuing, I 
endeavoured to introduce a communication, 
for truth makes a wonderful impression upon 
the mind; when, after an hour or two’s 
chat, one of them remarked, “ You are the 


% 


most 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


151 


most agreeable companion I have met 
with; but, I do assure you, when you first 
entered, I took you for a spy employed bv 
Government/ 1 

They cordially gave me an invitation to 
their houses; but time would not allow. 

It does not appear that dishonesty is 
totally expunged from the Wall; for 
though my gloves were deposited where 
they ought to have been safe, yet 1 found 
that some person had made free with them. 

The inhabitants remarked, that their 
elevated station exposed them to violent 
storms of wind and rain; and that if any 
snow was left upon the earth, it might be. 
found there. 

At the eleventh mile-stone is the village 
of Wall-houses : there are five. Severus, 
distinct as before; and Hadrian, thirty yards 
on the left, but faint. Here must have 

been 




152 HISTORY OF 

been a Mile castle. Now a young grove 

\ . 
t 

fills Severus’s ditch, which will tend to pre¬ 
serve it. 

At the twelfth mile-stone, Agricola is 
bold, and Severus perfect. 

At the thirteenth, High-wall house. 
And at the fourteenth stone, we pass by 
Sir Edward Blacket’s, who is the proprietor 
of all the works of the General and the two 
Emperors ; and who has converted a little 
farm-house into a little castle ; so that our 
favourite banks and ditches have not lost 
their warlike appearance. 

Hadrian, fifty yards on my left, is very 
conspicuous; I, upon Severus’s Wall, and 
his ditch on my right. . 1 ' ,3 ■ 

At the fifteenth mile-stone, we pass 
Halton Shields, a village of twelve houses. 

I rapped at some doors, tried the latch at 
others, and hollowed at all; but I believe 



r 


not 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


153 


not a soul was left within, the fine hay-day 
had emptied the village. 

I now enter a common, where the two 

* I 

partners appear in bold and broken lines. 
Severus, through the long line of the 

Wall, seems to chuse the high ground, 

* \ 

perhaps the better to observe the approach 

of an enemy; and Agricola the low, for 

* 

the benefit of water to supply his ditches ^ 

■ 

but I was surprised, at the close of the 
Station, to observe this rule was reversed ; 
for Agricola passes over a steep on my left, 
and the other seems obliged to take the 
low ground on which I tread. Perhaps 
Agricola durst not attempt the swamp; 
which Severus was obliged to do, as the 
other had left him no alternative. 

4 , ~ *? ,■*“ P r i !■ 

i '• , CTf.<1 ’ t * . f t > 

- V j • ; . 'i t ,* J v s 

Mm nv.i y 

u 




THI 


154 


HISTORY OY 







i 


THE 

FIFTH STATION. 

* 


*... • _ - f 



*. i 1. , . j 

A f * , 

j * ;<jw 

• t 't . / 

il ‘1; ( 

e 


f 


* ; • '■ • ■ / 

J ereri/jj 

•< ' > j V. 

rib//. 

t 

’ \ t • 


J li 

1 



HXT^TlSriTM:-, 

. ' ■ : 


■ i .. 

now 

> j ■ 

1 . • 

{ 

‘ • * * i » i \} 

•» • 

llalIon Cli.elters. 


Jinb~iitns 

V - 

==, t- A 

VattioA . 


JL* ROM whence Hal ton‘Hall derives its 

* f , * t , 

* ! • » 

name, the antient seat of the Carnabys. 

* * * I • > r < . 

I am eighteen miles from the Wall’s 
end, fifteen and a half from Newcastle, and 
seven from the last Station. I passed 
through the centre of this Station without 

knowing 





























THE ROMAN WALL. 


155 


knowing it, till an intelligent gentleman 
set me right. It is near the foot of the hill 
I just now mentioned; is flat, which is 
uncommon for a Station; seems less rough 
than some other Stations, owing perhaps 
to its being more cultivated, for it was now 
covered with standing corn. Severus’s 
Wall passes through the centre of this 
Station. 

The moment I saw it, Severus appeared 
to have been cramped in his design, that 
he was obliged to take the low ground, 
because his predecessor had before taken 
the high ; and, as he could not go behind 
him, was obliged to proceed over the verge 
of the swamp. 

Rising a long and gentle hill, I was 
shewn what was once a Mile castle, now a 
piece of wheat in the open field. 

One hundred yards more brings us to 
Port Gate; that is, two roads cross each 

other 


156 


HISTORY OP 


other at right angles, both Roman. One 

• ^ 

is the Watling-street, which, I have no 

I ' 

doubt, was made first; the other,, the line 

, > 

of the Wall upon which I tread. This 
being formed after the other, a kind of 

i 

gate-way, or thoroughfare, was left in the 
Wall, to facilitate a passage: hence the 
name. 

See in the annexed Plate, a profile of the 
Roman Wall and Vallum near this Gate, 
as it appeared in Warburton’s time, 1722. 

I now travel over a large common, still 
upon the Wall, with its trench nearly com¬ 
plete. But what was my surprise when I 
beheld, thirty yards on my left, the united 
works of Agricola and Hadrian, almost 
perfect! I climbed over a stone wall to 
examine the wonder ; measured the whole 

0 

in every direction; surveyed them with 

surprise, with delight, was fascinated, and 

\ 

unable 









l 
























> 


N. 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


157 


THE ROMAN WALL. 157 

unable to proceed; forgot I was upon a 
wild common, a stranger, and the evening 
approaching. I had the grandest works 
under my eye, of the greatest men of the 
age in which they lived, and of the most 
eminent nation then existing; all which 
had suffered but little during the long 
course of sixteen hundred years. Even 
hunger and fatigue were lost in the 
grandeur before me. If a man writes a 
book upon a turnpike road, he cannot be 
expected to move quick; but, lost in 

astonishment, I was not able to move at all. 

/ 

Upon this common, which is very high 
ground, I more than once observed some 
of the facing stones of Severus’s Wall under 
my feet, just as the Romans placed them, 
which proves that the road is raised so 
high, as to bury some part of the Wall; 
this simple sight I could not observe with¬ 
out surprise and pleasure. 

At 


/ 


158 HISTORY OP 

At St. Oswald’s the road turns a little 
to the left, for a few yards, and leaves the 
Wall to the right; but very soon crosses it 
again. 

Had I been some months sooner, I should 
have been favoured with a noble treat; 
bat now that treat was miserably soured. 

At the twentieth mile-stone, I should 
have seen a piece of Severus’s Wall seven 
feet and a half high, and two hundred and 
twenty four yards long: a sight not to be 
found in the whole line. But the pro¬ 
prietor, Henry Tulip , Esq. is now taking 
it down, to erect a farm-house with the 
materials. Ninety-five yards are already 
destroyed, and the stones fit for building 

removed. Then we come to thirteen yards 

* 

which are standing, and overgrown on the 
top with brambles. 

A piece* of the Wall, as it still appears 

at this place, is shewn in the annexed Plate. 

The 


A Piece of Sev crus's Wall as it now appears near 

i 

st Oswald’s. 



p.i58. 






























































































I 



THE HOMAN WALL. 


159 


The next forty yards were just demolish** 
ed; and the stones, of all sizes, from one 


pound to two hundredweight, lying in one 
continued heap, none removed. ‘ ' 

The next forty yards are standing, sevOif 
feet high. 1 - • ); r l 

Then follows the last division, 
of thirty-six yards, 1 > which is sacrificed by 

* *. V f * 

the mattock, the largest stones selected, 


consisting 


* • • » _ > • * 

and the small left. The facing stones re¬ 
main on both sides. This grand exhibition 
must be seen no more. TIow little we value 


what is daily under the eye! 

« * r ** 

Here was a fine opportunity for measur- 
in°*. The foundation was one foot below 

o 

» * h II 

the surface of the ground, and consisted of 
two courses of stone, each six inches thick. 


extending to the width of six feet and a 
half. The second course set off three inches 
on each side, which reduced the foundation 


to 


0 


160 HISTORY OF 

to six feet, and the third three inches of a 
side more, reducing the Wall to five feet 
and a half, its real thickness here. 

The plate here given represents a profile 
of the remains of the Wall as it now ap- 
pears at this place. The foundation of 
which is laid in the native earth, the rest 
is cemented with mortar. 

The soil being afterwards thrown up on 
each side of the Wall two feet high, caused 
the foundation to be three feet deep. 

I desired the servant with whom I con¬ 
versed, iC to give my compliments to Mr. 
Tulip, and request him to desist, or he 
would wound the whole body of Anti¬ 
quaries. As he was putting an end to the 
most noble monument of Antiquity in the 
whole Island, they would feel every stroke. 
If the Wall was of no estimation, he must 
have a mean opinion of me, who would 

travel 


/ 


i 


TrofUe flu Remavw£rf SEVERUS’S WALL . 



}7.260 











































































































•\ . - 

- 


























THE ROHAN WALL. 161 

travel six hundred miles to see it; and if 
it was , he could never merit my thanks for 
destroying it.” 

“ Should he reply, 6 The property is 
mine, and I have a right to direct it as 1 
please it is an argument I can regret, 
but not refute.” 

I am now descending a hill of some 
magnitude, called Wall Fell, and am within 
half a mile of the river of North Tyne. 
Could I follow the line of the Wall, it 
would lead me to what was once the Roman 
Bridge over that river; the foundation of 
which, I was given to understand, I might 
see if I would wade ; but as I could not do 
one, nor wished to do the other, I submitted 
to the turnpike road, and the present bridge, 
which perhaps is half a mile above that of 
the Romans, and which obliged me to quit 
the line of the Wall for two miles. 

n And 

J 

\X S, ' 


162 


HISTORY OT 


And here I must be allowed to call In 
question the wisdom of the moderns, who 
have erected a bridge at twice the expence; 
for the water is here twice as wide, two 
hundred and fifty feet; and, by quitting 
the Roman line, caused the traveller to 
march two miles instead of one. But 
private interest is known to prevent public 

The eye can easily carry the works of the 
three great men over the water, across the 
valley; and up one inclosure of perhaps 
two hundred yards, five or six acres; and 
in the next close, we see it terminate in our 
Fifth Station, full of hills and hollows,, 
from which it has acquired the modern name 
of Chester Holes. 



THE 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


163 


\ 


THE 

SIXTH STATION. 

ClLURNUM ; 
now 

i 

Walwick Chesters. 

I AM not far from the twenty-second 
mile-stone, between Newcastle and Car¬ 
lisle. The in closure where this City stood 
seems, like the other Stations, to be five or 
six acres; but is in realitv an oblong of 

. •> o 

400 feet by 570, nearly eight acres. It is 
in grass, very uneven, owing to former use, 
and rather elevated, though near the bot¬ 
tom of high ground. But the Romans 
were obliged to fix here, or they could not 
guard the river. 


The 




164 


HISTORY OF 


The annexed plan of this Station, with 
part of the plan of Severus’s Wall and 
Hadrian’s Vallum, shews how they were 
connected at the Stations; and their mu* 
tual relation to one another must have 
been one entire united defence or fortifi¬ 
cation. 

The Banks, Wall, and Trenches, having 
crossed the water of North Tyne, and 
passed this Station, keep together, and 
proceed by the spacious seat of Nathaniel 
Clayton, Esq. who holds the honour of be- 
ing proprietor of the works of two Empe¬ 
rors, and the Bonaparte of the day. 

Rising the hill to Walwick, the village 
is delightful, and the prospect most charm¬ 
ing. At the corner of a garden-wall, I 
saw a beautiful pedestal, pannelled, mould¬ 
ed, and fluted, in perfection, two feet by 
eighteen inches ; no doubt a Roman 

relick, 


¥ 


/ 





































































THE ROMAN WALL. 


165 


relict, degraded to a shabby prop, as a 
thing of no value. 

We pass the seat of Henry Tulip, Esq. 

The works of Agricola and Hadrian 
still continue on mv left; but Severus 

j 7 

crosses the turnpike road in the village, 
and appears on my right, a Wall three feet 
high, but in a rude state, and without 
facing-stones ; for we can easily conceive 
a wall, levelled with the ground, and seven 
or eight feet thick, will bear its own rub¬ 
bish a yard high. 

The Emperor and General on my left, 
in striking characters, are cut through the 
rock ; and the great military way fills up 
the space between Severus and them. 

I am now at the twenty-third mile-stone; 
the morning delightful, and the parallel 
lines before me magnificent. 

At the twenty-fourth mile-stone, I still 

* 

/ 

have 


166 


HISTORY Or 


have Severus’s trench, and what remains 
of the Wall, on my right, and Hadrian’s 
works on my left, with the military way 
on which 1 tread, only twelve yards wide, 
between, which fills up the space. Thus 
am I hemmed in by dignity, upon the best 
of roads, upon elevated ground, with ex¬ 
tensive prospects, in a country thinly inha¬ 
bited, surrounded with commons, or with 
inclosures of fifty or a hundred acres each, 
but without trees or hedges, and where the 
face of the earth seems shaved to the 
quick. Yet in this solitary place, where 
foot seldom treads, I enjoy the company 
of three valuable friends, Agricola, Ha¬ 
drian, and Severus. 

At Towertay, Severus’s Wall appears in 
more dignity, with two or three courses of 
facing-stones; but generally, in this part 
of my route, with only the rude stones ly¬ 
ing upon the foundation. 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


167 


THE 

SEVENTH STATION. 


Severuff Wall 


PiiOCOLITXA; 


now 


C arrawJbnr gh. . 


vs 







Yal 


-p.l 


n7 


This Seventh City upon the Wall lies 
upon an open and elevated spot. A farm¬ 
house stands exactly upon the works of 
Hadrian and Agricola. The Station joins 
the house, is six or seven acres, in grass, 

exceed- 






























168 


HISTORY OF 


exceedingly hilly, declaring the former ac¬ 
tions of busy life, and is yet secured by its 
original ramparts. 

The Wall here makes a bend, as if with 
design to inclose this spot. It seems, by 
the roughness of the ground, to have had 
a suburb to the West, where a well, or ra¬ 
ther a Roman Bath, has been found seven 
feet square, quoined with stone. 

I was treated here with great civility, 
when they found I was neither Excise- 
man, Spy, nor Methodist Preacher. 

A Roman stone, which graced the old 
Castle, graces the internal wall of the pre¬ 
sent house; a man’s chubby face, ten in¬ 
ches square, without inscription, but is or- 
namented with drapery. 

Here the bold ruins of all the works 

\ V 5 ' ’ * < ? f 

.si; > . 

appear. 

At the twenty-fifth mile-stone, Hadrian 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


169 


is forty yards on my left, and Severus close 
to my right, not very conspicuous. 

Up on the hill rising to Carrow, the 
foundation of Severus’s Wall is seen, with 
a boundary hedge growing upon it; and in 
one place three or four courses of facing- 
stones appear for about fifteen yards. The 

other two, thirty yards on my left. 

* 

Pass by Carrow, a single house, on the 
summit of an eminence, where must have 
been a Mile castle; it lies between Ha¬ 
drian and Severus’s works. 

At the twenty-sixth mile-stone, the Ge¬ 
neral and the Emperor are seen in formid¬ 
able beauty ; while Severus is rather sink- 
ing, yet noble. Upon the hill, twenty-six 

miles and a half, all the mounds and tren- 

* * 

ches appear in strong lines. 

At the twenty-seventh mile-stone, the 
two appear in bold and noble characters. 

o But 


170 


HISTORY OF 


But now I must quit this beautiful road, 
and the more beautiful scenes of cultiva¬ 
tion, and enter upon the rude of Nature, 
and the wreck of Antiquity ; for this grand 
military way bears to the left, and the 
Wall to the right. 

I am now thirty miles and a half from 
the Wall’s end, and twenty-seven from 
Newcastle; have been close to the Wall 
all the way, except at passing the Tyne; 
and, for about twenty miles of the above 
space, have trod upon the very Wall, as 
constituting part of the great military way, 
though unobserved by the common pas¬ 
senger, with Severus’s trench at my right 
elbow, generally in a bold style. The 
works of Agricola and Hadrian mostly 
visible on my left ; but always carried 
through inclosures. 

The two works now must separate, and 

be 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


171 


be a mile, or near it, asunder for the next 
ten miles ; for Agricola and Hadrian 
humbly pursue the lower grounds, while 
Severus climbs the rocky mountains. 

I follow the Wall. It now appears six 
feet high ; but divested of facing-stones, 
and in a rude heap. Here I find the plat¬ 
form of a Castle, whose wall is six courses 
high, and about four feet long. 

Travelling three hundred yards, I come 
to the foundation of another building join¬ 
ing the Wall; but levelled, in the form of 
a fyow, the Wall supposed the string. It 
could not be a Mile castle; perhaps a place 
of arms. 

Half a mile before I come to Shewen- 
shields are the remains of a Castle, twenty- 
two yards by thirty; an entrance on the 
East, South, and West, with a foss on 
three sides, remarkably bold, and on the 

fourth 


172 




HISTORY OF 

fourth the Wall. It has had four Turrets, 
one at each corner. Here I observe Agri- 
cola and Hadrian creeping modestly along 
the valley below. 

Severus runs along, from one to three 
feet high, all confusion, mounting every 
craggy precipice it can find, and, from the 
prodigious declivity on the North, needs 
no ditch ; while Agricola and Hadrian 
beautifully proceed over a small eminence 

s * * •* «• .. •' 

below, five hundred yards South, where 

their works, or rather Agricola’s, joins.a 

* • * 

large fort sixty yards square, once a Castle. 

Here Severus’s Wall runs crooked, and 
catches the precipices wherever it can. 

'a f * M .JM l‘ J 

About a mile after we quit the great road, 
we arrive at a gap in the mountain, an in¬ 
let to the famous Moss Troopers; who here 
broke through the Wall in bodies, for plun¬ 
der and blood. The Mosses are the mea¬ 
dows 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


173 


dows on the North below; which, though 
rather In an uncultivated state, are passable. 

A small Castle. stood in the meadow, 
near the foot of the hill, to prevent the 
Piets, and afterwards the Moss Troopers, 
by guarding the pass, the remains of which 
appear. Tradition says, it was built by 
King Ethel , which must be an abridgment 
of Ethelrick, Ethelfrid, or Ethelred, for 
they were all Saxon Kings of Northumber¬ 
land. It was not likely to be the first or 

•* 

last, for they reigned but four years each. 
It must then have been Ethelfrid, who 
reigned twenty-three years, was a spirited 
prince, and fought with the North Britons. 
We may date the erection of this Castle 
between the year 593 and 61 7 . But, who¬ 
ever was the architect, he knew but little 
of Castle-building. It ought to have been 
placed upon one of the limbs of the pass. 

I am 


174 


HISTORY OR 


I am now upon a place called Shewen- 
shields, about twenty-eight miles from 
Newcastle, once a Mile castle, now a 
dreary farm of 2070 acres, occupied by Mr. 
Matthew Magnay, who paid me every at¬ 
tention. It includes the Mosses on the 
North of the Wall, and the rocks on the 
South, and is better adapted to the teeth 
than the plough. 

Mr. Magnay took me to a small gutter 
in the rock upon his farm, which bears the 
name Cats Cover , (as small as would ad¬ 
mit a cat). Here the Scots bored under 
the Wall so as to admit the body of a man ; 
for, if one could get through, a thousand 
might follow; for there was nobody either 
to watch, or oppose them. The Britons 
must have been very supine; for two days 
labour of three men would have made this 
narrow pass so secure, that the more they 

bored, 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


175 


bored, the deeper they would have pene¬ 
trated into the rocky mountain. 

The elevation of Shewenshields house is 
remarkable; it commands an amazing view, 
part of which is the Cheviot Hills. Mr. 
Magnay asked me, “ if I would sit in King 
Ethel’s chair ?” to which I assented. He 
took me to the top of a precipice fifty feet 
high, close behind the Wall; from the 
bottom.of which rose a perpendicular rock, 
rather in the form of a chimney, much 
higher than we stood, and six feet from the 
precipice; it had a set-off, which resembled 
the seat and back of a chair; but neither 
Ethel, nor any one else, ever sat in it. 

The Wall is here six or seven feet high, 
but in confusion ; keeps a zigzag line 
merely to follow the precipice. I requested 
my friend Magnay to conduct me to the 
famous j Busy Gap , about twenty-nine miles 

' from 


176 


HISTORY or 


from Newcastle ; so called from the ire** 
quency of the Piets and Scots breaking 
through this gap, and surprizing the Ro¬ 
mans and Britons, and afterwards of the 
Moss Troopers. This I also found to be a 
break in the mountain over which the Wall 
ran, now filled up by a common-field gate, 
two yards and a half wide. It lies one mile 
beyond Shewenshields. 

The human mind is apt to rise into the 
wonderful. Most tales are stretched a 
little beyond what they ought to bear. 
How often have we “ never seen such a 
thing in our lives!” Every thing in the 
world” often rings in our ears. Something 
like this is the case of the Moss Troopers. 
“ They could pass over bogs which nobody 
else could. They burrowed into rocks and 
holes which none could find out, and 
places where none durst approach.” 


The 


% 


THE ROMAN WALL. 177 

f 

The simple truth is, they had no rocks 
or holes to burrow in, or bogs to pass, 
which another could not. No doubt they 
were able-bodied men, as all thieves ought 
to be, or they would not be fit for their 
calling. Their manner was, to assemble 
in a body, break the Wall in the weakest, 
or most convenient place, fight, run, burn 
your house, or drive away your cattle, as 
occasion offered. The advantage would al¬ 
ways lie on the strongest side. 

As I passed through Penrith, I paid my 
respects to John Hutton, Esq. (perhaps 
my relation). In our discourse he remarked, 
“ That one of his ancestors, a stout man, 
returning from Carlisle, met six Scots men 
driving twenty head of cattle, which they 
had stolen. Being armed himself, and 
they having only bludgeons, he drew his 
sword, fell furiously upon them, wounded 

V some. 




t 


/ 


17 s 


HISTORV or 


/ 


V. 


some, made the whole body disperse, and 
recovered the prey, which he drove back 
to the owners.” 

A more dreary country than this in 
which I now am, can scarcely be conceived. 
I do not wonder it shocked Camden. The 
country itself would frighten him, without 
the Troopers. 

As the evening was approaching, and 
nature called loudly for support and rest, 
neither of which could be found among the 
rocks; I was obliged to retreat into the 
military road, to the only public house, at 
three miles distance, known by no other 
name than that of Twice Brewed. 

“ Can you favour me with a bed ?” 

\ 

“ I cannot tell till the company comes.” 

“ What, is it club-night ?” 

“ Yes, a club of carriers.” 

A pudding was then turned out, about 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


179 


as big as a peck measure; and a piece of 
beef out of the copper, perhaps eijual to 
. half a calf. 

“ You must be so kind as to indulge me 
with a bed. I will be satisfied with any 
thing.” 

“ I cannot, except you will sleep with 
this man” (pointing to a poor sick travel¬ 
ler who had fallen ill upon the road}. 

“ That will be inconvenient.” 

“ Will you consent to sleep with this 
boy ?” (about ten.} “ Yes.” 

Having compleated our bargain, and 
supped, fifteen carriers approached, each 
with a one-horse cart, and sat down to the 
pudding and beef, which I soon perceived 
were not too large. I was the only one 
admitted; and watched them with atten¬ 
tion, being highly diverted. Every piece 

went down as if there was no barricade in 

% 

the 


180 


HISTORY OP 


the throat. One of those pieces was more 
than I have seen eaten at a meal by a mo¬ 
derate person. They convinced me that 
eating was the “ chief end of man/ 5 The 
tankard too, like a bowl lading water out 
of the well, was often emptied , often filed. 

My landlady, however, swerved from 
her agreement; for she found me a whole 
bed to my wish. 

■ ' t V 

'At * ■ V 0fjll 



THE 


THE ROMAN WALE. 


181 


THE 


EIGHTH STATION. 


Sever us* Wall, 
_ _ __ 


BORCCTVXCTTS 


710M ? 

Houfe-steads. 



'p.1'81 

I AM now thirty miles from Newcastle. 
Becoming a gainer at Twice Brewed by a 
broken promise, which is seldom the case, 
I retreated next morning over a Moss to 

my 





















182 


HISTORY OP 




my favourite pursuit, which brought me 
to House-Steads, the grandest Station in 
the whole line. In some Stations the 
Antiquary feeds upon shells, but here upon 
kernels. Here lie the remains of antient 
splendour in bold characters. 

The line, as usual, proceeds over the crags, 
which leave a precipice fifty feet high on 
the North. At the bottom are three pools. 
The Wall is six or seven feet high ; but 
miserably broken, and continues in the 
same style six or seven miles, a heap 
of rubbish. In some parts only three feet 
high, and occasionally shews five or six 
courses of facing stones. 

t i_ 1 - ifci. • ✓ 

The Station is, of course, much elevated; 
declines to the South; the ramparts are 
plain. A very large Suburb seems to have 
been added to this populous City, now re¬ 
duced to one solitary house; the whole 

about 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


183 


about fifteen acres. The curious observer, 
I believe, may count twenty streets. The 
population, perhaps, could not be less than 
two or three thousand souls. 

From the melancholy relicks on the spot, 
it must have been graced with some elegant 
buildings. 

A Temple, no doubt, was one. I saw 
the square base of a large pillar, with a 
circular shaft proceeding from it, four¬ 
teen inches diameter, curiously moulded. 
Another of a different form, with a square 
shaft eighteen inches diameter; noble re¬ 
mains of fifteen hundred years! which 

• 

loudly declare the days of antient splen¬ 
dour. The Castle stood at the corner, 
North-West, within the Station; w^as itself 
moated round, as were also the Station and 
the Suburbs, separately. 

Joining the Wall, within, are the re¬ 


mains 


184 


HISTORY OP 


mains of a court of Justice, about twelve 
yards long, and six wide. In the West 
corner was the Judge’s seat, six feet 
diameter, and quoined with stone, ten 
courses of which remain. It is not easy to 
survey these important ruins without a 
sigh : a place once of the greatest activity, 
but now a solitary desert; instead of the 
human voice, is heard nothing but the 
winds. 

Jk > i 

In the farm house down in the valley, 
the jamb which supports the mantle-tree is 
one solid stone, four feet high, two broad, 
and one thick, complete as in the day the 
workman left it, as in the Plate here 
annexed; which may be also found in 
Warburton’s History of the Wall, Plate 
III. p. 60; and in Gough’s improved edi¬ 
tion of Camden’s Britannia, 1/89, vol. III. 
Plate xvii. p. 245. 

There 



AVCCOH-ITV 

NCRORVM 

MIL-CVI'ME 

SIQVERIVS 

SVPERST1S 

P RAEf EC IV 5 



Ifornan _A7ftzr, rww The Jllcu itle. free at a Fcuin-Tumse at 

HOUSE STEADS 












































L J i <>lt/r oz //// MzmnLtu w uz |> R A I) I, EY . 


Serenu'j 7 / 7iU . 












































































THE ROMAN WALL. 


185 


• * 

There are also many curious figures, all 

Roman, in this Station. 

f 

I had now the severe task of creeping 
up rocks, and climbing stone walls, not 
well adapted to a man who has lost the 
activity of youth. 

As the works of the two celebrated Chiefs 
continued in view, and being invited by a 
single house in the valley, of some mag¬ 
nitude, called Bradley Hall, where I might 
gain knowledge; I descended the hill, to 
tread upon that venerable ground; a distance 
Warburton calls 600 yards, perhaps good 
measure. I found them all very distin¬ 
guishable, though in mowing grass, and in 
a perfect swamp. 

The annexed Plate shews a profile of the 
Mountains at Bradley Hall, on the top of 
which runs Severus’s Wall, and Hadrian’s 
Vallum at the bottom. 

q Entering 


/ 


186 


HISTORY OF 


Entering the Hall, the family, whose 
name I am sorry I have forgotten, seemed 
to strive which should treat me with the 
most kindness. It consisted of a father 
and mother, two sons, near six feet each, 
and two beautiful Sacharissa’s, who though 
aiding the churn, will not, like JVallers 
lovely rose, bloom and wither in a desert, 
but find their way into the busy world. 

On the rough rock, opposite Crag 
Lough, the Wall is three feet high; hut 
deprived of all the facing stones, and 
bends to avoid the pool. The ditch is in 
perfection. 

At another spot upon this Crag, the 
Wall is eleven courses high on one side, 
and from three to five on the other; and, 
for sixty yards, is eight feet high. 

I now consider myself in the middle of 
the kingdom, between the German Ocean, 

and 




THE ROMAN WALL. 18/ 

and the Irish Sea; consequently upon the 
most elevated ground between both, and 
distant, in a straight line, by land, about fifty 
miles from each. We must allow, from 
the convexity of the Globe, a rise of one 
hundred and fifty yards; and the mountain 
on which I stand will perhaps give a rise of 
forty more. It follows, I am elevated one 
hundred and ninety yards above the Sea. 

The prospects are not grand, but extensive, 

« , 

and rather awful. Upon the Great Crag, 
are three courses of facing stones. 

The judicious Warburton “ believes, 
that the works of Hadrian lie at a consi¬ 
derable distance South of this Station, and 
that they make a small turn at the brook 

l ■ ; i . I 

to come at it.” But can a thing be brought 
near to what does not exist! 

Hadrian was dead long before the ap- 
pearance of this Station. 


THE 


V 


188 HISTORY OF 


THE 

NINTH STATION. 

VlNDOLANA; 
now 

l m .1 „ . . . >«4l •>. , . - ■ # A 

y. Q ; | .v ‘ i * 

Little Chesters. 

1 THINK myself bound to place Little 
Chesters among the Stations, that I may 
follow my predecessors, and not break their 
numerical order. Although Roman, and 
garrisoned by Romans, it does not appear 
to belong to the works of Severus. It stands 
near two miles South of the Wall. 

Agricola erected Castles adjoining his 
works; but this stands nearly a mile Soutlr 
of his, therefore it could add no security. 

It 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


189 


It probably was used as a prison, and this 
is corroborated by a remark of our writers, 

“ That there was discovered under a heap 
of rubbish a square room below the ground, 
strongly vaulted, and paved with large 
square stones, set in lime ; and under this 
another room, whose roof was supported 
by rows of square pillars.” These two 
rooms could answer no end but that of a 
prison. 

There are four Stations, of the eighteen, 
smaller than the rest, which are detached 
from the Wall, and lie considerably to the 
South: 

Little Chesters; 

Carvoran ; 

Cambeck Fort; and 

Watch Cross. 

As Little Chesters is the fir3t that oc¬ 
curs, it is necessary to speak of all the four. 

Hadrian 


I 


190 HISTORY OF 

Hadrian and Sever us could have nothing 
to do with these. They were most pro¬ 
bably the work of Agricola. That he made 
the banks and ditches 1 have described in 
his name, is not doubted. That he erected 
some Castles it is clear; but, for many 
ages, all his ramparts, mounds, trenches, 
and Castles, have gone under the name of 
Hadrian’s. 

If he erected Castles and mounds, there 
must have been roads to communicate with 
them. It is reasonable then to conclude, 
that he was the author of all the roads 
appertaining to his Works. 

A Roman road went from Walwick 
Chesters, directly to Little Chesters, and 
left Carrowburgh and Housesteads much 
on the right. It then proceeded from Little 
Chesters to Car v or an, leaving Great 
Chesters on the right, and directed its 


course 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


191 


course to Camheck Fort , leaving Burdos - 
wald to the right, and then took its 
course to Watch Cross. All these four 
Stations lie to the South, totally distinct 
from Severus’s Wall, or Stations Agricola 
must have formed them for the accom¬ 
modation of his works. 

The road I have described is about 
eighteen miles; besides many smaller 
roads, which were connected with his 
grand undertaking. It may be considered 
as a string, and Severus’s Wall, the bow. 
It ends in the great military way, and joins 
Severus’s Wall about four miles before we 
come to Carlisle; in all about twenty- 
eight miles. 

Severus, afterwards, constructed a great 
number of roads, now to be seen, which 
branched from this towards the North, and 
communicated with his Wall, Stations, &c. 

The 


192 


HISTORY OF 


The Wall, at Wall-green, takes a small 
turn, and continues about three feet high, 
broken as usual: and Severus’s Ditch is 
in high preservation, as we rise the hill to 
the next Station. 


c A 


<5 






THE 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


193 


THE 

TENTH STATION. 


Wall. 


M S ICA ; 

ncnf 

Great Cl tellers 


/ V 


jj 


f >' 
i 

: 

i 


i ' 




\ 

\ * 

» * 

» » 

V. 103 


I^HIS Station is elevated as usual, and 
hirty five miles from Newcastle j is about 
ive acres, very uneven. No buildings re- 

nain, except a modern farm-house, all the 

R doors 


































194 


HISTORY OF 


doors of which I found open, and none to 
guard the premises but a child, from whom 
I could gain no intelligence. There was 
no danger of a thief; for, in this solitary 
place, he must come a great way to take a 
little. 

The trenches and ramparts are bold, 
particularly on the West, where they are 
very large. The appearance of the place, 
and the idea of past transactions, strike the 
soul with awe. It appears by the ground, 
that the buildings have swelled into a 
Suburb. The marks of a Temple, and 
Court of Justice, are visible. The Wall, 
in confusion, is here about three feet high. 
The swelling banks shew where the Castle 
stood, and particularly mark the butments. 

The General and the Emperor, with 
mild features, are seen half a mile below, 
gliding along the valley. 


Drawing 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


195 


Drawing near Cockmount Hill, four 
hundred yards forward, and in a high 
situation, X am frequently favoured with a 
few courses of facing-stones. Agricola and 
Hadrian, still half a mile South, in the 
valley : the reason is, Severus attempts a 
precipice, if he can. Here the Wall ascends 
the rocks. 

There is a Tumulus in the meadow, near 
the works of the two great men. Now* 
we come to a Well, made famous because 
one of the Saxon Kings was baptized here, 
perhaps without a feast. 

We arrive at Wall-town, if a single 
house deserves the name. On each side the 
door stands a Roman Altar, used for wash¬ 
ing hands, kettles, dishes, &c. and has at 
last the honour of supporting the dish- 
clout. I saw one old female, who treated 
me shily, and heard a younger, who durst 

not 


/ 


196 


HISTORY OR 


not see me; and both, I have reason to 
think, wished me gone : but, perhaps, I 
had the most reason to be frightened. 

The Wall ascends the rocks. Here 

Camden was terrified again, at the imagi- 

- 

nary houses of the Moss Troopers, and re¬ 
linquished his examination of the Wall. 
The name is Walton Crag. I found the 
ascent so difficult that 1 sometimes was 
obliged to crawl on all fours. 

Here the Wall having facing-stones on 
each side, allowed me to take the measure; 
I found its thickness barely nine feet. In 
one place, for about two yards, and that 
upon a sharp declivity, there are eight 
courses of facing-stones. 

o 


THE 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


197 


THE 


ELEVENTH STATION. 




r 


MACrTs r A_; 
7 IVIV 

Carv'orarL. 




This small Station, thirty-eight miles 
from Newcastle, seems to belong rather to 
the works of Agricola, than to those of Se- 
veras ; or perhaps it belongs to neither, 

being 































198 


HISTORY OF 


being about three hundred yards South of 
the nearest. 

The situation of the ground Is a valley 
between two hills. Through this valley, 
and through the Wall, runs the river Tip- 
pal, which opening demanded a security to 
the pass, as well against the Britons as the 
Scots. 

Opposite therefore to Carvoran was 

^ . 

erected in after-ages, on the North side of 
Severus’s Wall, Thirl well Castle (Thorough 
TVall() from the Scots breaking through. 
The situation of Thirlwell Castle is well 
chosen, upon an elevated round knob of 
earth. It is the property of the Earl of 
Carlisle, and far gone in decay. 

Here I met with all the civility even 
friends could bestow. A little beyond is 
the mark of a Mile castle, ten yards square. 

I have now done with desolate moun¬ 
tains. 


i 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


199 

tains, precipices, and climbing stone walls; 

which have continued more than ten miles. 

# 

Half a mile short of Mumps Hall is a 
hollow in the mountain called Stone Gap , 
where the Scots broke through. I am 
now in that part of the Wall which Na¬ 
ture had the least defended; for the river 
Tippal, mentioned above, falls into the 
North Tyne. This last running forty miles 
Eastward, and parallel with the Wall, on 
the South side, became a kind of guard 
which prevented the Northern plunderers 
from penetrating into the country. And, 
about three miles West of this place, the 
little surly river Irthing crosses the Wall, 
and flows into the Eden ; which, running 
Westward to Carlisle about eighteen miles, 
became an out-guard to the other part of 
the Wall. The intermediate space of three 
miles between the North Tyne, aided by 

the 


1 


) 


200 HISTORY OF 

the Tippal on the left, and the Irthing 
feeding the Eden on the right, became a 
fine opening for plunder. 

I now cross a small rivulet called Pol - 
tross , which gives me an entrance into 
Cumberland, being forty-four miles from 
the Wall’s end, forty and a half from New¬ 
castle, about sixteen and a half from Car¬ 
lisle, and twenty-nine and a half from 
Boulness. 

The Wall, close to my left, runs along 
a meadow, is about a yard high, in confu¬ 
sion, has a hedge growing upon it, till it 
reaches the East bank of the Irthing, 
where it stops. The West bank is a pre¬ 
cipice, which Warburton calls forty yards 
perpendicular: perhaps he is right. The 
Wall undoubtedly went to the foot of this 
hill, and must end there; for the side is 
too steep, I think, to admit a Wall; but 
its broken end is visible on the top. 


I had 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


201 


I had this river to cross* and this moun- 
tain to ascend ; but did not know how to 
perform either. I effected a passage over 
the river by the assistance of stones as 
large as myself, sometimes in, and some- 
times out; hut with difficulty reached the 
summit of the precipice by a zig-zag line, 
through the brambles, with a few scratches. 

At the top I had a view of the Wall 
where it was broken off to the foundation. 
It measured seven feet exactly. 



S THE 


* 


202 


HISTORY OF 


THE 

TWELFTH STATION. 


Sevents s ~WaZl . 


/ / 

AMBOGLAOT^A; 



ium> 

BiH’dofwald . 


i 

■S 


l 

■ i F 7-7 £ 



rj^ .p.'lQ'L. 

X RADITION says it derived its name 
from Oswald, Ring of Northumberland, 
who was surprized by his enemies while 
fishing in a neighbouring pool. It could 
not be Oswald, who lost his life in battle 

with 




























THE ROMAN WALL. 


203 


with Penda, the Mercian King, at Oswes¬ 
try. If there is any truth in the tradition, 
it must have been Oswald, who was raised 
to the throne of Northumberland by a fac¬ 
tion, about the year 800 , and was deposed 
after a reign of twenty-eight days. 

When I entered the house of Mr. Bow¬ 
man, who is the proprietor, and occupier, 
of these once imperial premises, I was re¬ 
ceived with that coldness which indicates 
an unwelcome guest, bordering upon a dis¬ 
mission ; for an ink-bottle and book are 
suspicious emblems. But, as information 
was the grand point in view, I could not, 
for trifles, give up my design; an expert 
angler will play with his fish till he can 
catch him. 

With patience, with my small stock of 
rhetoric, and, above all, the simplicity of 
my pursuit, which was a powerful argu¬ 
ment, 


204 


HISTORY OF 


merit, we became exceedingly friendly; so 
that the family were not only unwilling to 

let me go, but obliged me to promise a 

* 

visit on my return. They gave me their best; 
they wished it better. I had been, it seems, 
taken for a person employed by Govern¬ 
ment to examine private property, for the 
advancement of taxation. 

I assured them, that my journey rose 

> 

from the idle whim of an Antiquary; that 
I had employed myself \ and that my right 
hand must pay my left. 

The Station at Burdoswald, forty-three 
miles from Newcastle, and fifteen from 
Carlisle, contains five or six acres, joins the 
Wall, like other Stations, on the North. 
All the Roman buildings are down; but 
the marks of many appear. The ground 
will tell us what has been laid upon it. 
Some have been the turrets of the Castle. 

One 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


205 

One a prison. Another, twelve yards by 
five, was designed for the guard. The 
whole Station is surrounded by a foss. AU 
the entrances are plain. The whole in a 
high situation. 

The Wall here is six feet thick. Mr. 
Bowman’s fold, &c. stand on the very 
works. I left these worthy people with 
some concern. 

Upon the common, called Midgham 
foot , a little beyond the favourite premises 
of Burdoswald, the Wall had been recently 
taken down, and lies in heaps, as if the 
country could not produce one soul to pro¬ 
tect Antiquity. Agricola and Hadrian lie 
one hundred yards on my left. 

I thought I observed the foundation of 

•% 

a turret, but am not certain ; I saw, how¬ 
ever, forty yards of facing-stones, from 
five to seven courses high. In another 

place 


I 


206 HISTORY OF 

place on the common, called the Banks, I 
saw eight. All the mounds, the Wall, 
and the ditches, are seen all the way along 
this common ; the Wall four feet high. 

At j Bank head , the foundation of the 
Wall only is seen; the trench is in perfec¬ 
tion ; a foot-path runs along the bottom. 

I entered a farm-house for intelligence; 
I was treated with great shyness, till they 
understood my pursuit. It appeared, they 
had taken me for a surveyor of land, pre¬ 
paratory to inclosing the commons. 

At Flare hill , which, by the bye, stands 
in a valley, the Wall is ten feet high, and 
five yards long; but the front stones are 
gone. I viewed this relick with admira¬ 
tion ; I saw no part higher; it was within 
two feet of the battlements. Near this 
place the Wall is five feet high, with the 
foundation of a Castle twenty yards square. 

Now 


\ 


s 


THE ROMAN WALL. 20 / 

4 

Now I find a small part, with three tier 
of facing-stones, ten yards long, and four 
feet high, with a new wall added by a 
gentleman to the old, which will pre¬ 
serve it. 

A little farther, the banks and ditch are 
perfect; and Severus’s Wall is built upon 
the soil thrown out of his own ditch, as is 
perceptible in many other places. 
i Over the valley, for the space of two 
hundred yards, the Wall is four feet high, 
and a boundary hedge grows upon its top. 

Proceeding from Haden, a new Wall is 
erected upon the spot where the old one 
stood, with some of its materials; and the 
remainder are scattered. 

I now traverse another common, half a 
mile over, where all the works are just dis¬ 
cernible. Then passing half a mile more, 
part over watery ground, and the sun down, 

mv 

j 


208 


HISTORY OF 


my limbs told me, I had done enough for 
the day; and a guide directing mew here I 
might sleep, I applied to the sign of the 
Cow and Boot, at High Walton, for a bed. 

“ Sir, we cannot take you in.” 

“ You must be kind enough to assist 
me, for there is no other place in which I 
can sleep. Dispose of me how you please, 
but do not turn me out.” 

Silence was the answer, which I consi- 
dered a favourable one. There were, be¬ 
sides the father and mother, six children, 
chiefly females, and grown up. One of 
them, a young woman, I was sorry to see, 
was approaching the grave. 

Although a public-house, they had no 
ale, cyder, porter, beer, or liquors of any 
kind, or food, except milk, which was ex¬ 
cellent ; but they treated me with some- 
\ 

thing preferable, Civility. 


When 


THE ROMAN WALE. 


209 


When I rose the next morning, and 
asked my worthy landlady, what I had to 
pay ? I found she would be satisfied with 
only a few pence ! Ignorant of the polite 

fj , /m* j- * • •*■•-*»» • t .r • . • ■ + ** *•**", • 

art of duping, I found she knew but little 
of the world. 

I laid down two shillings. In surprize, 
she returned one, and offered to give 
change for the other. I insisted upon her 
taking both. Still unwilling, I was obliged 
to promise to make her a harder bargain at 
my return. 

When a man serves me with his best in 
time of need, he merits my money and my 

/ i 

thanks. 


T 


THE 


210 


HISTORY OF 


I 


THE 

- I ' ! * 

thirteenth station. 



(fF 




PETUTAM; 


m 


now 


Cambeck Fort 


\ 


miles from Newcastle, and eight 
from Carlisle; a modern name, derived 
from the river Cambeck. The works are 
wholly gone; for a gentleman, who, like 
other “ wise men from the East” had ac- 

‘A 

quired 






























THE ROMAN WALL. 


211 


quired a fortune in India, recently pur¬ 
chased the estate on which this Castle 
stood, for thirteen thousand pounds, stocked 
up the foundation, and erected a noble 
house on the spot. Other Stations pre¬ 
serve the ruins, but this only the name; 
and is the first which has been sacrificed to 
modern taste. 

It also bears the name of Castle Steads , 
perhaps the most proper. This small fort 
stands at so great a distance from all the 
works, that I can scarcely admit it among 
the Stations. It could be of no more use 
to Severus’s Wall, than various other for¬ 
tifications scattered over the country on 
both sides of the Wall. It might be of ra¬ 
ther more use to Agricola. It is the third 
reputed Station which stands out of the 
line; and was, I have no doubt, erected by 
him, and most probably accepted by Seve- 

rus. 


I 


212 


HISTORY OR 


rus, and occupied by him as a Station ; 
otherwise, we cannot account for the great 
vacancy between Burdoswald and Watch 
Cross, which is more than nine miles; or 
rather between Burdoswald and Stanwix, 
which is fourteen miles, and would have 
been too great a distance between the 
Stations, a distance no where found. So 
that between the above two, which line 
with the Wall, we find two that do not, 
Cambeck Fort, oi which we now treat, 
and Watch Cross, which follows. 

The ground-plot was visible before the 
purchase, and is all that was left of the 
Station. Along the Wall, Severus’s ditch 
with the Works of Agricola and Hadrian 
may be traced; but the higher we rise in 
cultivation the more we sink in antiquity. 
The plough will bury its last remains.* 

The works now pass Newton, and Old 

Walton, 


THE ROMAN WALE. 


213 


Walton, much in a feeble style, except 
Severus’s trench, which, through the in¬ 
closures, makes, and perhaps ever will 
make, a bold figure. 

Wall -Head, a single house, in a loic 
situation ! Here the people viewed me 
with a suspicious eve when X entered the 
house, and, I have reason to think, rather 
wished me out. A book in my hand, and 
ink-bottle at my breast. “ What could 1 
be but a surveyor of land, employed by the 
landlord, preparatory to a rise of rent !” 

But when I could dispel the gloom, and 
raise a smile, I became a most welcome 
guest ; was received with additional joy, in 
proportion to the depth they had been let 
dow r n; was obliged to drink tea, and 
promise a return of the visit. Thus the 
civil treatment rose from the removal of an 
expected in jury, • 

the 


\ 


214 


HISTORY OR 


/ 


THE 


FOURTEENTH STATION 

( 

Aballaba ; 


now 


Watch Cross. 

It is sometimes called Scale by Castle . 
This is still a less Station, and the least in 
the line : fifty-three miles from Newcastle, 
and five from Carlisle; lies more than a 
mile South of all the works; and for what 
use placed here by Agricola is uncertain, 
except to guard a road. This is the fourth 
Station of the eighteen, which is detached 
from the Wall. 


A Roman 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


215 


A Roman road proceeds from Walwick 
Chesters, already mentioned; takes a course 
like the string of a bow for twenty-six 
miles, and then joins the Wall near Wallby. 
A branch of this road runs up to Thirlwell 
Castle. It also communicates with Little 
Chesters, and Carvoran, both detached 
Stations. The same road extends to two 

r 

other Out-Stations; for, by passing through 
Crakes-town, and Burtham, it reaches 
Cambeck Fort; and then, through Newton 
and Irthington, it reaches Watch Cross , 
proceeds on to Low Crosby, and Wallby, as 
above. 

It is said, the kingdom at the time I 
am speaking of was full of timber; and 
that the Romans occasionally cleared it 
away, to make their roads, and to faciliate 
a passage for large bodies of men, provi¬ 
sions, &c. which could not, in many places, 
have been conveyed without. 

When 


216 


HISTORY OF 


When they had formed the roads, it 
became equally necessary to guard them. 
Hence these four Southern Stations. As a 
farther security to this long and naked part 
of the Wall, in after-ages, was erected 
Scaleby Castle, which, like Thirl well, lies at 
a small distance North of Severus; this, 

I '\ '• ** 

perhaps, three hundred yards, and Thirl - 
well, one, which became a tolerable defence. 

While the Wall was new, it was well 
guarded, which insured peace. The prin¬ 
cipal officers under Severus and his suc¬ 
cessors frequently procured grants of land, 
upon which they erected Castles of defence; 
and, as a gentleman who knew the whole 
line, remarked to me, they chose the most 
tertile spots in the country. Scaleby was 
one of those grants. The Tilliots owned 
it about the time of King John ; then the 
Pickerings, the Musgraves, the Gilpins; 

f and 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


217 


and it is now the property of William 
Richardson, Esq. of Wallby ; but, like the 
fortifications of the Wall, is in ruins. 

I now pass Bleatern, where the Wall is 
said “ to run through mossy ground, and 
they were obliged to erect it upon piles of 
wood.” But I saw no piles of wood, or 
mossy ground, though I sought for both, 
neither an occasion for piles. 

Bleatern stands upon elevated ground, 
able to support a wall without the help of 
wood; besides, had there been mossy 
ground, Severus’s ditch, in high condition 
here, would have drained the land for the 
Wall. I found, however, as much attention 
paid me, within the house, as I wished. 

All the way from Bleatern to Wallby, 
more than a mile, the common high-way, 
(not the turnpike road,) is on the Wall 
itself; with the ditch on my right 

v I asked 


218 


HISTORY OF 



I asked a gentleman, who was amusing 
himself in his garden by the road, some 
questions relative to my pursuit ; who 
answered with great civility, 

“ Will you step in, Sir, and take a 
glass ?” 

What man, like me, burnt up by a mid- 
dav sun, could refuse? Besides I was in a 
country where I could not purchase. The 
solicitation repeated, I accepted the kind 

offer. He took me into his elevated 

/ 

summer-house. 

“ I do not reside here, but come occa¬ 
sionally to amuse myself with the prospect 
(which was fine) ; have brought a bone of 
lamb, and wish you to partake.” 

After a slight apology, I made a hearty 
dinner, and drank what P chose; in my 
situation a small draught could not suffice. 

From his window, he explained the whole 

country, 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


219 


country, attended me on the way, and 
pointed out every object of use. 

“ May I, Sir, request the name of the 
gentleman, who has treated me with the 
most generous hospitality ?” 

“ The Rev. Michael Wheelwright, of 
Carlisle.” 

I now pass a mill, where I was shewn, 
in a field, the line of the Wall, with the 
stones hacked up. The field was in tillage. 
Here the sight is gone for ever. 

Pass Drawdikes, the seat of the 

t , • 

Aglionby’s, where many inscriptions have 
been found. 

Before I arrive at Stanwix, and in the 
road to Tarraby, I pass through a field 
where Severus’s Wall is the identical foot¬ 
way, with his faint ditch by its side. 



THE 


220 


HISTORY Off 




THE 


FIFTEENTH STATION. 

CONGAVALA; 


now 


Stanwix. 

Drawing towards the evening, and 

this village, I asked an old woman, “ if 
she knew where I could lodge ?” 

“ Yes. I will take vou to a house where 

9 ml 

the people are clean, honest, and civil.” 
Upon asking for a bed ? 
tc No; Do you think I will turn out my 
constant customers for vou !” 

I applied to a second, and received a 
second “ No.” 

I was directed to a third; saw only the 
landlady, a fine figure, well dressed, had 

been 




THE HOMAN WALE. 


221 


been a beauty, and yet shewed as much of 
that valuable commodity as could be ex¬ 
pected from forty-five. 

“ Madam, can you favour me with a 
bed ?” 

She surveyed me with a small degree of 
surprize-“ No !” 

X took a seat. 

* 

“ I will pay whatever you desire.” 

I could spare one ; but it will not suit 

me. 

u I have tried to procure one, but am 
unable. Pray, Madam, indulge me, it is 
drawing towards nine.—Do not suffer me 
to lie in the street.” 

“ You are a stranger to me !” 

“ So I am to every one else. If I must 
not sleep till I am known, I must walk one 
hundred and fifty miles for a bed.” 

u What ? are you on foot ?” 

w 


“ Yes; 



222 


HISTORY OF 


“ Yes ; but if I am, I have not the ap¬ 
pearance of a common tramper; neither 
would a horse be of use, except he could 
mount precipices, and climb over stone 
walls. Pray, Madam, favour me.” 

“ I am a single woman; and, to take in 
a stranger, may give rise to reflection.” 

u Did you ever hear of a woman losing 
her character by a man of seventy-eight!” 
(I thought I perceived, pass through her 
mind, a small ray of pity.) 

“ I do not keep a public-house.” 

<c I ask pardon. Madam ; I applied 
because I saw a sign over the door.” 

“ It has been a public-house ; and the 
sign was forgot to be taken down.”—I 
retreated. 

We met a short time after, when a slight 
civility passed between us. 

A week elapsed, when, dining at a public 

table 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


223 


table in Carlisle, I mentioned this singular 
adventure. The whole company, in a 
moment, recoguized the person I alluded 
to, and told me, “ She had long been con¬ 
nected with the Duke of —--; had issue 

by him of some standing, who were training 
for genteel life, whom he allowed her to 
visit once a year. That whenever he came 

j 

into those parts, he chose to see her, and 
that she bore an amiable character. 5 ] 

therefore think she acted perfectly right in 
refusing admittance. 

I afterwards procured a bed, fell a prey 
to the dancing gentry of the night, and the 
next morning, turned and shook my shirt, 
being unwilling to carry off any thing but 
my own. 

The place where this Station was, is easily 
found; but no marks remain, not even that 
roughness in the ground which distin¬ 
guishes every other. 

Agricola 


224 


HISTORY OF 


Agricola and Hadrian totally disappear; 
and all that can be seen of Severus is his 
ditch, which is nearly obliterated, about 
two hundred yards long, part of which is 
a bye lane, and part by the hedge, in the 
inclosure, fourteen yards wide, and four 
feet deep : both point to the Station, and 
down the precipice, fifty feet high, to the 
river. 

I observed a stone in the street, con¬ 
verted into a horse-block, three steps high, 

with the figure of a man, in a recess, eigh- 

/ 

teen inches in height, in a Roman dress, 
and in great preservation. I wonder the 
boys had not pelted him out of the world. 
I inquired its history of some elderly peo¬ 
ple ; but all I could learn was, “ It stood 
there before my time.” I believe it to be 
a Roman Chief. 

The Wall then proceeds from this ele¬ 
vated 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


225 


vated Station down the precipice, where it 
crosses the river Eden, to Carlisle; and 
makes a remarkable bend to the right, 
evidently to cross at the narrowest part, 
and to include the city, which was a place 
of consequence in the time of the Britons. 
There are but two places of magnitude in 
the whole line of the Wall, Newcastle, and 
Carlisle, and it makes a turn to grasp in 
both. 

Stanwix is but about four hundred yards 
East of this city; and that space consists 
of meadow and water; perhaps, in a flood, 
all water. 

The Wall points very near the North 
foot of the Castle-hi 11, keeping the Eden 
on the right, all the way to the sea. 

While in the desolate, the rocky, the 
mountainous regions, I enjoyed the pleas¬ 
ing curiosities of the Wall, the banks, the 

Sta- 




226 


HISTORY OF 


* . 

* 

Stations, &c.; but, now I am travelling in 
the beautiful and cultivated parts, I am 
travelling without my friends. I search, 
but cannot find them. 

Camden, and Warburton, u thought the 
river formerly ran near the Castle, at Car¬ 
lisle, and had changed its course since the 
time of the Romansbut give no reason. 
From a survey of the ground, I think it 
has not. . 

At Kirkandrews, I saw a precipice, 
along which the Wall had run, and where 
it did not need a trench. One hundred 
yards within the Wall, I saw, running 
through a corn-field, the faint remains of 
Agricola’s and Hadrian’s works. Some 


little may also be seen near Wormanby, 
and at Beaumont. 


THE 

u 


I 


THE ROMAN WALL, 


22 ? 


TIIE 


SIXTEENTH STATION 


Axeloxxunum ; 




now 


Burgh. 


Although Several, wherever he 

could, chose high ground for his Station, 
and Ills Wall; vet here he was obliged to 
chuse, for the first, a low meadow, about 
two hundred yards East of the church, 
called The Old Castle ; the foundations of 
which are visible ; the whole about the 
usual size, one hundred and thirty-six 
yards square. I am now five miles West 
of Carlisle, and eight from Boulness. 

I was taken into a garden where a stone 

with 



228 


HISTORY O! 


with a Roman inscription was shewn me; 
but none of us could read it. 

In the belfry of the church, they shewed 
me a door about live feet high, but very 
wide, made of iron bars, resembling a jail 

window, once the prison door of the Castle. 

\ 

I overtook a farmer driving his team. 
cc Sir, 5 ’ says he, “ are you a Doctor?” 
(a Quack, no doubt, with my budget 

i 

stuffed with laxatives.) 

“ No, I am not; but I can prescribe at 
a venture, as the Faculty often do. What 
question do you wish to have solved ?” 

“ I have a brother dangerously ill.” 
u What is his complaint ?” 

“ We cannot tell; but he has kept his 
bed eighteen weeks, and taken nothing 
but a little wine.” 

u Then, I fear, your brother is not long 
for this* world.” 


How 


the Homan wall. 


229 


How easily I might have picked up a 
tee ! I was sorry for him. He felt for a 
brother! 

Stones have been frequently ploughed 
up at Burgh with the mortar adhering to 
them, which shews the annihilated state 
of the Wall; nay, I believe every farmer, 
through the whole line from sea to sea, 
can point out the spot where it ran in his 
own ground. 

Edward the First, resolving to reduce 
Scotland, assembled an armv, and en- 
camped upon the sands, a mile from the 

T; i 

town, on my right; but was seized with a 
flux, and carried off. Upon the spot of 
his departure, Henry Howard, Duke of 
Norfolk, proprietor of the land, erected a 
monument, twenty-eight feet high, in 
1685, declaring the event, in Latin. 

Time, and the weather, have reduced 

this 


230 


HISTORY Of* 


this monument; and the fragments now 
lie round the spot. Lord Lonsdale is pro¬ 
prietor of the estate, by exchange of pro¬ 
perty with the Duke, and, I was informed, 
had promised to erect another; which the 
country wait for, or would erect it them¬ 
selves. Edward's bowels are said to have 
been interred in the church. 

After quitting Burgh, which is a long, 
flat place, and deemed the largest village 
in Cumberland, we enter a flat marsh, 
three or four miles square, the road in the 
centre ; the marsh is sometimes overflowed 
with the sea, is full of cattle, and deep 
ditches, to carry off the tide. I cannot 
suppose, that either the Wall or the mounds 
ran along this marsh. 

As Severus certainly proceeded on our 
right through Burgh, and as certainly 
crosses the road from left to right, as we 

rise 


THE ROMAN WALL. 231 

rise the hill, at the extremity of the marsh, 
entering Drumburgh; it proves that the 
Wall crossed the way at Burgh, and pro¬ 
ceeded a considerable way on our left, out 
of the reach of both marsh and tide. 

Jaded with labour, nature calling for 
sustenance, and melted with a July sun, 1 
asked a person, upon this marsh, “ what 
public-house I could apply to at Drum¬ 
burgh ?” 

“ There is none,” he replied. 

“ Then, like other beggars, I must try 
the Christian charity of some kind inhabi¬ 
tant; for there is no supporting life with¬ 
out food, and rest; and money itself is of 
no use, when the thing we want cannot be 
purchased.” 

He offered me his horse, and gave me a 
pressing invitation to his house; but it lay 
too wide. 


I entered 


232 


HISTORY OF 


I entered the Castle, made a slight apo¬ 
logy to a woman engaged at the fire, in 
dishabille, whom I supposed was the mis¬ 
tress, and the only person there.—I sat 
down.—-She returned no answer.—I held 
a momentary conversation by way of fill¬ 
ing up the time, and winning the stake in 
view. She not only refused a reply, but 
would not even look at me.—I considered 
myself an unwelcome guest, and enter¬ 
tained the idea of departing.—She retreated 
without either word or look, and I gave up 

all for lost. 

% 

In two or three minutes she returned in 
a better dress, loosely put on, with a large 
tumbler of brandy and water. Former shy¬ 
ness was dissipated in a moment; Female 
delicacy, I perceived, had been wounded, 
by what she thought an unbecoming dress, 
exposed to the eye of a stranger. 


The 


THE HOMAN WALL. 


233 


\ 

The whole family instantly became 
friendly with me. I was pressed to din¬ 
ner, to spend the day, and take a bed; all 
which I declined; for I considered time 
the most valuable article I possessed. 









1 S V . 


u- 


vr. 

i 




THIS 


234 


HISTORY OF 


vync.ciii . , i... it 


r 

• ' L* .> •• • /• f • » ;; 

HJC-J + 'J • :. , / JL 


,V n 

A 1 


! L.:i if / . . I 


* • - • I a * /r.-j * . , orf) [•. 


■ , s 


mu j 


■ 


•* ■ { ; J : - ' - ’ . . I ! J ! A i’t 

THE 


' T 




g<rvt t ^ 

SEVENTEENTH STATION, 


x cm) 


GaIJROSENTUM ; 


now 

Drum burgh* 

X AM now nine miles from Carlisle, and 
four from Boulness, the termination of the 
Wall. The Castle stands upon a rising 
ground, at the extremity of the marsh; 
and was erected by the Dacres, two hun¬ 
dred years ago, with the materials of the 
old Castle, and upon the old foundation. 
Their arms are placed in the front. It is 
no more than a large, handsome farm-house. 
My kind friend took me, with a candle, 

into • 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


235 


into the lower regions; where I saw “ dark- 
ness visible,” which brought to mind the 
horrors of a dungeon. 

Though the dim light could not carry 
the eye to the extremity of the thickness of 
the Wall, yet I could perceive it was three 
or four vards thick, and seemed to be 
formed for eternity. 

The site of the Station, now an orchard, 
garden, &c. is, with the ramparts, perfectly 
plain. My friend too, directed my eye to 
the course of Severus’s Wall, which came 
from the South of the marsh, crossed the 

f '' > • »* L c -* C-« 4 

turnpike road at the Station, and would 
proceed on my right, where I perceived 

V ^ 

Severus’s trench fourteen vards wide, and 
four feet deep. 

At the bottom of the lane, three miles 

* 

farther, where I open to the sea, the Wall 

crosses the road, and continues to run one 

1 ' * • • 

x 2 hundred 


236 


HISTORY OF 


hundred yards on my left. Here I saw the 
Wall recently stocked up, and the stones 
laid on heaps for future use. 

At this lane’s end, the noble works of 
Agricola and Hadrian are supposed to 
have terminated ; which is probable. 

One mile prior to the extremity of out 
journey, and at the distance of one inclo¬ 
sure on our left, appears in majesty, for 
the last time, Severus’s Wall, being five or 
six hundred yards long, and three feet 
high; but, as in the mountains, all con¬ 
fusion. A fence grows upon it, which be¬ 
comes its security from an arrest either by 
time, or the wicked hands of man. In two 
places it is six feet high, eight broad, and 
three thick ; but has no facing-stones. 

The cruel farmer gloried, “ that his sa¬ 
crilegious fingers had destroyed such and 
fcuch a part of the Wall/’ 


i 


- I hoped 


th!e roman wall. 


237 


“ I hoped/’ in reply, “ the next stone 
he disturbed might break his mattock; 
and begged not one of them might be 
touched till my return!’ 

He made a promise to my wish, perhaps 
as binding as that of a lover. 

I saw Gretna Green , that source of re¬ 
pentance ; but, being myself half a century 
above par, and not having with me an 
amorous lass of eighteen with as many 
thousands, I had no occasion for the black¬ 
smith. 

My landlord and his wife, where I slept 

at S-, had been handsome. She told 

me, u that hers was a Gretna Green w ed~ 

t 

ding, which cost a few guineas; and that 
she was descended from a good family.* 
But it was easy to see, that poverty, a pot 
of ale, and the sorrow of fifteen years, were 
the result. 


The 



238 


HISTORY OF 


\ 

The Rev. John P-, however, does 

not always act the farce for a few guineas. 
Interest prompts him to carry a stamp of 
every dimension; and he sometimes pro-* 
cures a note of a hundred from the happy 
bridegroom, which stands a chance for 
payment should the lady’s papa come to a 
reconciliation. 



THE 



< 


THE HOMAN WALL. 239 


THE 

EIGHTEENTH STATION. 

Tunnocelum ; 

f s • \ 

' r 

now 

. •• ' ' .. 

\ • ” , ’ • - * 

Boulness, 

Nothing is left of this Station but 

the spot which marks it, upon a rock on 
the verne of Solway Frith, thirteen miles 
West of Carlisle. 

* * ' V > 

Severus must have done almost infinite 
service to the world, by erecting the Wall, 
Half the churches, houses, barns, parti¬ 
tion-walls, and roads, nay, even down to 
a very horse-block, were raised out of this 
Wall. Here the church and village of 
Boulness had their origin. 

Whether 




240 


HISTORY OP 


Whether the extremity of the Station 
was made perfectly secure, by carrying it 
far enough into the water, is doubtful; for 
the Scots frequently came over the Frith, 
at low tide, in bodies ; murdered, burnt, 
carried off their booty; and drove away 
their cattle. 

In 1216, they stayed rather too long 
before their return, owing to a thirst of 
gain; when their whole body, with all the 
property, was swept away by the tide. 

Our historians say, “ The river was 
choaked up with the multitude.” They 

never saw the extent of the Frith, or they 

* 

would not have ventured the expression. 

Horses, carts, &c. frequently pass over 
at low water. As I walked by these sands 
to Boulness, they seemed dry, a small gut¬ 
ter or two excepted. 

Weary, and melted, I dined at a public- 

house ; 


t 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


241 


house ; but was surprized when I returned, 
thi 'ee hours after, to see a vast expanse of 
sea at my feet, with vessels of magnitude 
sailing upon its surface. 

Scotland, on the opposite shore, looked 
beautiful. 

I now approach Carlisle, where I first 
entered, having crossed the kingdom twice, 
under a burning sun, and, without a drop 
of rain, in seven days and six hours. 





> 










242 


HISTORY o:F 


CONCLUSION. 

HAVING thus far proceeded in my la¬ 
borious, my romantic, and even my Quix¬ 
otic undertaking, the double tour of the 
Wall; I shall close the work with some re¬ 
marks upon the Authors who have gone 
before me ; upon the mode of building the 
Wall, and the nature af the stone. I shall 
give a concise list of the Stations and the 
intermediate places, from the East to the 
West end of this grand line. I shall no¬ 
tice the inscriptions ; state my return, and 
the journal of the day. 

I am more confirmed in my opinion, 
\ , that. 





243 


THE ROMAN WALL. 

) 


that none of the writers ever passed the 
whole length of the Wall ; that very few 
have even seen It; but that the first His¬ 
torian, however ignorant, like the first 
horse in a team, was implicitly followed 
by the rest. 

\ 

An old Author says, “ Hadrian was the 
first who drew a rampart of prodigious 
hulk, as high as a mountain /” This 
proves he never saw it, nor knew its 

Another evidently mistakes Antoninus’s 
work in Scotland, for Severus’s in England. 

A third says, ( ‘ The Wall was begun by 
Hadrian , and finished by Severus. 7 ’ This 
supposes only one work. 

A fourth says, “ Sever us only repaired 
Hadrian s Wall. 

A fifth, “ The Wall was thirty-five 

i 

miles long.” 

A six<> 

• * I 2 ■ » * 

* 



/ 


/ 


i 




244 


HISTORY OF 


A sixth, “ One hundred and twenty-two 
miles long.” 

Even the venerable Bede “ cannot allow 
that Severus built a Wall, because TVall 
Implies a work of stone. Can we sup¬ 
pose, that he ever saw, thought, or in¬ 
quired about It ? although a neighbour to 
the place. He, and Gildas, both observe, 
“ that, when the Romans quitted the 
Island, they advised the Britons to build 
a Wall from sea to sea, to keep out the 
enemy which shews how little they 
knew of the matter. Yet these are reputed 
our best antient writers. 

Again. “ They made the Wall between 

K ' 

two straits, or bays of the sea, a thousand 
miles !” Surely this must be charged to 
the printer. 

\ Some authors have amused themselves 
^d readers with a brass pipe running 

through 


THE ROMAN WALE. 


245 


through the internal part of the Wall, to 
convey intelligence. 

From the above absurdities, and fifty 
more which I could select, can a reader 
form a regular set of ideas, as he peruses 
a work ? The eye of the Historian should 
see ; and it rests with him to cause the 
reader to see as he does. 

From the destruction of so large a part 
of these magnificent works, I fear, I shall 
be the last Author who shall describe 

them. Plunder is the order of the day. I 

„ \ 

wished to see Severus’s works in a superior 
style, but am an age too late. They have 
suffered more during the last century, than 
in the fifteen before. 


v i xA 


THE 


246 


HISTORY OR 


' *' 


J 1 




if 




THE BUILDING. 


SOME authors say, “ Hadrian’s If'all” 
as they term it, 66 is built of earth and 
stone but I believe there was no more 
stone than was promiscuously thrown out, 
with the soil of the neighbouring ditch, 
of which it is composed. 

' v 

Again : “ that Severus’s Wall is faced 
with casing-stones on the outside, and the 
internal part filled up with stones placed 
in an oblique direction;” Part of this re¬ 
mark is true. The stones are faced on 
both sides of the Wall, and very often 
shaped in a diagonal line, that is, like the 

key 




K 


thl Homan wall. 247 

key stone of an arch* and always laid with 
the end to the front, although three or 
four feet long* the narrow and broad end 
alternately, by way of dove-tail; and the 
internal part not laid at all , but stones of 
all sizes promiscuously thrown in, and the 
mortar as promiscuously thrown in among 
them. 

i 

I tried the strength of the mortar, and 
found it equal to that of the stone. 

m * * r c r v *f • • , • r 

• «, * • . r *. * . » » / I ** 

'. 4 | I i .. i. **.*.' mJ / k i L t » - » • / - I ilfr 

- ■ - - -- \ . 


STONE. 

/ 

I SHALL find it difficult to support an 
opinion when all the world, from Bede to 
the present day, are against me; to which 
must be added that of the whole country. 
But, as it is not the fashion, as in a former 
day, to burn a man for his opinion, allow 


me 




248 


HISTORY 03T 


me to state mine, and I will attend to 
yours. 

All agree, “ that the stone of which Se- 
verus’s Wall was built is not a native of 

’• N* '• 

the country, for the grit differs.”—But no 
evidence is produced where it was brought 
from. 

I observed only two kinds of stone in the 
whole line ; and with both, the country 
abounds. That towards the East has a 

i \ 4 

whitish covering, like unbleached linen, is 
of a flinty texture, and when broken is 
nearly the colour of lead. 

That towards the West is of a softer na¬ 
ture, brown, a little the colour of saffron. 
Of this the cathedral and w alls of Carlisle 
are composed; and the Wall of Severus 
seems to have been made of these. They 
seem, also, to be the same kind as those I 

•m 

saw stocked up at St. Oswald’s, at Hare- 

hill, 


THE ROMAN WALL. 249 

\ I 

I 

hill, and at Boulness. I observed too, se¬ 
veral places where stone had been got. 
Besides, it is not easy to see how they 
could bring from a distance so vast a load; 
neither the reason, when there was abun¬ 
dance which suited at home. Perhaps this 
is one of those wonders which takes pos¬ 
session of the human mind, ever fond of, 
and ever seeking after the wonderful. 






















* 








■ - ■ 






IN- 


250 


HISTORY or 










\< • ' " 


INSCRIPTIONS, 






I HAVE treated but little of Roman in¬ 
scriptions, or of Legions, and Cohorts, for 
several reasons. They are all totally va¬ 
nished from the Wall and Stations where 
they were placed. Some few have been 
preserved by the connoisseur, in dusty lum¬ 
ber-rooms, which seldom see light; more 
are converted into slabs, steps, lintels, or 
used for viler purposes; and still more are 
destroyed. 

The few inscriptions that remain are 
nearly obliterated ; and, were they not, 

they 




THE HOMAN WALL. 


251 


they are written in half characters, and in 
Latin, not easy to understand; and, being 
unacquainted with the Latin tongue, it 
might seem presumption in me to attempt 
it. Besides, with what success could I ex¬ 
plain that, about which the Learned them¬ 
selves differ ? And, if they could be ex- 
plained, what do they amount to ? only that 
such a regiment, or company, resided in a 
certain place, when all are equally un¬ 
known ; and to the generality of readers, 
nothing is more dry. When he has 

4 

laboured through a parcel of miserable 
letters, what is he the wiser ? 

I allow, a stone of such antiquity 
becomes a curiosity; but a piece of anti¬ 
quity, when not understood, sinks in value; 
and still more, if not of moment. The 
hungry inquirer, who can relish a dry husk, 
may find in Warburton all which have been 

Y 2 discovered 


252 


HISTORY OF 


discovered in latter ages, to the number of 
one hundred and fifty-two; also in my 
friend Mr. Gough’s edition of Camden’s 
Britannia. 

I design this work a present to a Book¬ 
seller. As it will be cheap to him, I wish 
it cheap to the purchaser. I would have 
it sweet as the apple; but, if I load it with 
parings, like putting garliek into his repast, 
it will swell the book, the price, and the 
disgust. 



I SHALL 


■ 


THE ROMAN WALL. 253 


I SHALL concisely state, from the 
Wall’s end to Boulness, every Station as 
it occurs; with the intermediate places 
through or by which this grandest of all 
British monuments passed. 

1. Wall’s End. — By Cousen’s house, 
now Baddle’s—Slate’s house—Stile in the 
Valley — Old Walker’s-hill —Byker’s hill 
— A windmill — Crosses the road thirty 
yards North of the Toll-gate—Ewsburn— 
Redburns — Another windmill — Pandon 
Gate. 

* 

2. Newcastle —Near the West gate— 
On the right towards the Toll gate — 
Crosses the road, and runs twenty yards 
left of the Quarry house — Elswick wind- 

^ mill 


* 






254 


HISTORY OF 


mill—Fenham Lodge — Mr. Orde’s house 
—Mr Bowes’s house. 

3. Benwell Hilx—M r. Orde’s other 
house—Denton Dean — Chapel houses— 
Mr. Mouritague’s house on the left—Wall- 
bottle — Newburn Dean —Throcklow. 

4. Rutchester—H igh Seat—Harlow 
hill—Wall houses—Sir Edward Blacket’s 
— Halton Shields. 

5. Halton Chesters — Port Gate — 

. 

St* Oswald — North Tyne river. 

6. Walwick Chesters, or East Chesters 
—Walwick —Towertay. 

7- Carrowburgh—C arrow—Shewen- 
shields — Ethel’s Chair — Cat’s Cover — 

8. House Steads—H altwhistle Burn. 

9. Little Chesters—W all Green. 

10. Great Chesters — Cock-Mount- 
Hill—Wall Town—Wintergap Cross. 

11. 



1 



THE ROMAN WALL. 


255 


11. Carvoran— Tippall river—Thirl- 
well Castle — Stone Gap —Willoford — 
Poltross — Irthing. 


12. Burdoswald — Midgham foot — 
Wallbowers —The Banks — Hare Hill — 
Bank Head — Birchshaw—Randilands —- 
High-Wall-Town. 

13. Cambeck Fort, or rather House 

i 

Steads — Irthington — Newton — Come- 
ranton—Old-Wall-Town—Wall Head. 

14. Watch Cross —Bleatern—Wallby 
— Taraby. 

15. Stanwix —Cross the Eden—North 
of Carlisle Castle—Kirkandrews—Beau¬ 


mont. 

16. Burgh— On, the right a windmill 
—South of the Marsh. 

1^. Drumsurgh— Glaston—Kirklands. 
18. Boulness. 


RETURN. 



256 


HISTOKY OF 


I 




\ 


RETURN. 

I NOW quit the favourite Wall, perhaps 
for ever; where I entered a stranger, and 
returned well known : for many knew me 
who had never before seen me; they had 
heard of the man in black, with his green 
umbrella and black pouch; and I have 
reason to think, from the treatment I met 
with, I could travel the Wall a third time, 
with the expence only of a few shillings. 

I quitted it at Carlisle, where I first 
entered, after crossing the kingdom twice, 
between the German ocean and the Irish 
sea. 

In the evening, after walking twenty- 
eight miles, I approached Hesket, ten 

miles 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


257 


miles South of Carlisle, and seeing two or 
three signs before me, I asked a person 
which of them could furnish me with the 
best lodging ?” “ There is none that will 

suit you. Go to the upper village;” where 
I succeeded. 

The next day I passed through Penrith, 
Clifton, Lord Lonsdale’s grounds, which 
are not so beautiful as they might easily be 
made, and stopping at the next village to 
dine, the name I think is Thrimby, I found 
the larder thinly stored. There was no 
meat, porter, cyder, or liquors; and, as I 
eould not drink ale, I gladly accepted a dish 
of milk. 

A landlady is not apt to smile upon the 
man who is unfriendly to the tap. I re¬ 
marked, “ A thunder-storm is coming on: 
I will stay a little longer.” She replied, 
You may get to Shap (four miles) before 
• it 


~ > 






I 


258 HISTORY OF 

it comes. Besides, there is a farm-house, 

\ 

two miles off, where you may shelter.” 
This was a hint to depart. I paid sixpence. 
She was giving me change. I told her 
“ to keep the groat/’ — she smiled; and I 
might have staid longer. 

Before I arrived at the two-mile house I 
was caught in the storm. I entered the 
fold-yard, with a view to secure myself in 
one of the out-buildings. “ I will beg 
leave, Madam, to shelter a little while.” 

“ The storm,” says she, “ is over,” 
casting an eye upwards. 

This was a second hint to depart, which 
I obeyed. A terrible rain ensued. 

I was directed to a public-house in Shap, 

I think the Hound , u where I should be 

* 

well accommodated but, when I arrived, 

I found about half the building was taking 
down for repairs. They treated me kindly, 

and 


/ 


l 


THE ROMAN WALE. 


259 


and promised a bed; but, when the hour 
of rest came, I was taken through the rain 
to a neighbour’s, where they had provided 
one for me. I found It was upon a solid 
ground floor, where every think felt cold 
about me; the bed perfectly damp. I was 
obliged to rise, half dress, and lie between 
the blankets. 

I left a shilling upon the table, and re¬ 
treated at four the next morning, without 
seeing one soul; nor do I know whether 
the house was inhabited. 

- j ■ h~A 



SHAP 


260 


IIJSTOKY OP 


t 


\ 


SHAP FELLS* 

I IMMEDIATELY entered upon these 
Fells, a region which surprized me. During 
six miles did I wander over a most barren 
and solitary desert, without the sight of a 
human being, a house, cottage, tree, or 
even an acre of cultivated ground. The 
freehold could not be worth half a crown 
an acre. Had the proprietor been there, 
he would have blushed to own the property. 
Had George the Third been there, he would 
have been sorry he was King over such a 
region. 

All the prospect before me was only hills 
upon hills ; and yet this could not be the 
place to which David referred, when he 
\ * said. 




THE ROMAN WALL. 


261 


said, from the Almighty, “ The cattle 
upon a thousand hills are mine;” for, al¬ 
though there are a thousand hills, yet all 
the cattle I saw upon them were not worth 
fifty pounds. It was more probably the 
place were Jove and the Giants fought, 
and where they pelted him with mountains; 
for there was ammunition enough. 

My road led me through Kendal, a large, 
handsome, populous town, and in a fertile 
country. The castle stands in a beautiful 
spot; but is, like others, in ruins. 

Slept at Burton, twenty miles ; and the 
next morning breakfasted with my little 
family, at Hest Bank , nine miles. 

We stayed in this delightful place four 
days; and were still more delighted with the 
company we found there. If to enjoy social 
conversation with freedom, and with sen¬ 
sible people; if fascinating mirth attending 

the 


262 


HISTORY OT 


the hours as they pass, and friendship 

f 

rising to the highest pitch to which it can 
rise in so short a period, —* constitute hap¬ 
piness ; I must rate these four days among 
the happiest of my life. These agreeable 
associates were from Kirkby Lonsdale. I 
am sorry delicacy hides their names. 

By easy marches I arrived at Birming¬ 
ham, August 1801; after a loss, by 
perspiration, of one stone of animal weight; 
an expenditure of forty guineas ; a lapse 
of thirty-five days; and a walk of six 
hundred and one miles. 

As so long and solitary a journey on foot 
was, perhaps, never wantonly performed 
by a man of seventy-eight, it has excited 
the curiosity of the town; and causes me 
frequently to be stopped in the street to 
ascertain the fact. I shall, “ to satisfy all 
whom it may concern,” give the Journal of 
the day, in the following table. 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


263 


THE JOURNAL. 


1801. 

Slept at Miles. Addit. 

Total. 

July 4 , Sat. 

Lichfield 


id 

5, Sun. 

Stone 


22 

6, M. 

Hulmes Chapel 


25 

7, Tu. 

Warrington l8 

1 

19 

8, W. 

Liverpool 18 

3 

21 

9, Th. 

Ditto. 



io, F. 

Tarlton 


21 

11, Sat. 

Garstang 


21 

12, Sun. 

Haysham 17 

3 

20 

13, M. 

Ditto. 



14, Tu. 

Hest Bank 


6 

15, W. 

Newby Bridge 18 

1 

19 

16 , Th. 

Ambleside 15 

l 

16 

17 , F. 

Penrith 


25 

18, Sat. 

Stanwix 20 

1 

21 

19 , Sun. 

Burgh (return from 




Boulness) 


22 

20, M. 

High Wall ton 


15 

21, Tu. 

Twice Brewed 


14 

22, W. 

Harlow Hill 


22 

- 

Carried < 

over 

325 


) 


i 



264 


THE ROMAN WALL. 


1801. 

(Slept at 

Miles. Addit. 

Total. 



Brought over 

325 

July 23, Th. 

Newcastle 

17 1 return 18 

24, F. 

Walwick Chesters 

22 

25, Sat. 

Glyn Veit 


18 

2 6 , Sun. 

Hesket 


28 

27, M. 

Shap 


19 

28, Tu. 

Burton 


20 

2 9 , W. 

Hest Bank 


9 

30, Th. 
3E F. 

Ditto. \ 
Ditto. > 

3 

3 

Aug. 1, Sat. 

Ditto. ) 



2, Sun. 

Preston 

25 1 

2 6 

3, M. 

Wigan 


17 

4, Tu. 

Knutsford 

- 

25 

5, W. 

Newcastle under Line 

24 

6 , Th. 

Wolsley Bridge 

21 


7 , F. Saltley, near Birmingham 26 


6 OX 


. 


INDEX. 








265 


INDEX. 


Abali ABA, the fourteenth Station, 214, 
Adventure at Newcastle, 132. 

- — . . .atWalby, 218. 

-at Stanwix, 220. 

Agricola’s Work, 9. 138. 

Aikin, A. his opinion of this work, x. 

Altar, Roman, 184. 

Ambleside, 118. 

Amboglanna, the twelfth Station, 202. 

'Asica, the tenth Station, 193. 

Authors who have written on the Wall, re¬ 
marks on, 242. 

Axelodunum, the sixteenth Station, 227. 
Bank head, 206. 

Banks, the, 20 6, 

Bannockburn, Battle of, 42. 

Beacons, 29. 

Beaumont, 22 6. 

Benwell Hill, third Station, 142. 

Bleatern, 217. 

Blood Hounds, 82. 

Borcovicus, the eighth Station, 1S1. 

Boulness, the eighteenth Station, 239. 
Bowness, upon Windermere, 11 6. 

Bradley Hall, 185. 

Bridge, Roman, 161. 

z British 





266 


INDEX. 


British Critic, opinion of this Work, viii. 

B road Water, 119. 

Building of the Wall, what composed of, 246, 
Burdoswald, twelfth Station, 202, 204. 

Burgh, its Barony, 34 . 

-the sixteenth Station, 227, 230. 

Burton, 2bl. 

Busy Gap, 175. 

Cam beck Fort, thirteenth Station, 189, 210* 
Cambeck river, 210. 

Carlisle, 124. 

Carriers, 179. 

Carrow, 169. 

Carrowburgh, seventh Station, 167. 

Cartmell, 112. 

Carvoran, eleventh Station, 189, 197. 

Castles, 20. 

Castle Steads, 145, 211. 

Cat’s Cover, 174. 

Centre of the Kingdom, 186*. 

Chapel-house, 145. 

Chester Holes, l6‘2. 

Child, its character, 2. 

Cilurnum, sixth Station, 1^3. 

Coekmount Hill, 195. 

Condercum, third Station, 142. 

Congavala, fifteenth Station, 220. 

Constantine, 2 6. 

Cow, King James, 38. 

Crag Lough, 18b. 

Critical Reviewers, their opinion of this work, ix. 
Cumberland given to Maschines, 33. 

Debatable 


/ 



INDEX. 

• * 


l 



Debatable Ground, 37, 53. 

Delamain, 121. 

Denton Dean, 144. 

Drawdykes, 219. 

Drumburgh, seventeenth Station, 234. 

--castle, 234. 

-treatment there, 232. 

Dunmallard hill, 121. 

Edward I. institutes the Marches, 41* 

-his Monument, 22 7. 

Emont river, 120. 

Ethell’s Chair, 175. 

Facing Stones, 157. 

Family at the Cow and Boot, 208. 
Gabrasentum, seventeenth Station, 234* 
Garburrough, 120. 

Garstang, 101. 

Gate, Roman, at Burgh, 228 
Giant’s Grave, 122. 

Gildas, on the Britons, 28 

Gough, Mr. his opinion of this work, xii. 

Grames, the clan of, 80. 

Graves, in the Rock, 105. 

Great Chesters, ninth Station, l88» 
Gretna Green, 237. 

Hadden-on-the-Wall, 146. 

Haden, 207. 

Hadrian’s Work, 11, 139. 

Halton Chesters, fifth Station, 154 

-Hall, 154. 

-Shields, 152. 

Hare Hill, 20 6. 


Harlow 







268 


INDEX. 


s 



Harlow Hill, 149. 

Hesket, 256 . 

Hest Bank, xviii. 10fi, 111, 261. 

Heysham, 104. 

High Seats, 149* 

High Wall House, 152. 

High Walton, 208. 

House-Steads, eighth Station, l8l, 182. 
Hulme’s Chapel, 95. 

Hunnum, fifth Station, 154. 

Hutton’s Adventure, 177. 

Hutton, Catherine, letter to Mr. Pratt, giving 
some particulars of her Father’s journey, xiii. 
—— John, of Penrith, 177. 

•-William, his mode of travelling, xv. 88. 

taken for a clergyman, 133, 1G8. for a spy, 
151, lfi8, 204 . for an exciseman, 1G8. for 
a surveyor of land, 206 , 213. for a phy¬ 
sician, 228. 

Inscriptions, Roman, 250. 

-one at House Steads, 184. 

Journal, 263. 

Irthing River, 200. 

Irthington, 215. 

Keir river, 108. 

Kendal, 26 1. 

Kent River, 108. 

--Sands, lOfi. 

Kirkandrews, 22 6 , 

Kirkstone, 118. 

Lancaster, 103. 

Lichfield, 90. 


List 






INDEX. 


269 


List of Scotch Robbers, 56. 

-English, 70. 

Little Chesters, ninth Station, 188, 189. 
Liverpool, 97. 

Lyulph’s Castle, 120. 

Magna, eleventh Station, 197. 

Man, his character, 2. 

Map of the Roman Wall, 125. 

Midgham Foot, 205. 

Monthly Reviewers, their opinion of this work, 
vi. 

Monument of Edward I. 227. 

Morville, Sir Hugh, killed Becket, 34. 

Moss Troopers, 82, 1J6. 

Mounsey, William, king of Patterdale, 120. 
Newby Bridge, 112. 

Newburn Dean, 145« 

Newcastle under Line, 94. 

Newcastle upon Tyne, second Station, 129, 130. 
Newton, 212. 

Nichols, John, Dedication to, iii. letter to, xiii. 
Oath, Juror’s, 44. PlantifPs, 44 . Defendant’s 
' 45 - 

Old Castle, 227. 

-Walton, 213. 

Ormskirk, 100. 

Oswald, St. 15S. 

Patterdale, 120. 

Penrith, 121. 

Petriana, thirteenth Station, 210. 

Physician, the author taken for, 228. 

Piets described, 7. 

Pillars, 



2 70 


INDEX. 


Pillars, Roman, 183. 

Poltross River, 200. 

Pons JEYu, second Station, 130. 

Pooley Bridge, 121. 

Port Gate, 155. 

Prescot, 97. 

Preston, 100. 

Procoliiia, seventh Station, 167. 

Raid, a Play, 86. y. ^ 

Return, 256*. 

Richard III. 123. 

Roman Bridge, 1 6 1. 

-Chief, figure of one at Stanwix, 224. 

-Inscription at House-Steads, 184. 

-Inscriptions, remarks on, 250. 

Roman Wall, Map of 125. 

-Views of parts of, 144, 156 , 158, 

160, 164. 

•-Mistakes of Authors concerning, 

242 . 

-building, 24 6 . 

--stone, 247. 

Rudgley, 93. 

Rudchester, fourth Station, 147. 

St. Oswald, 158. , ' 

Sands, Kent, 106. 

Scaleby Castle, 21 6 . 

Scotch and English, play so called, 86. 
Segedunum, first Station, 126. 

Severus’s Wall, 12, 139, 141. 

Shap, 258. 

--- treatment there, 259. 

» 4 


' • A 

Sliap, 










INDEX. 


2 71 


Shap Fells, 260. 

Shewenshields, 174. 

Solomon, Doctor, 99. 

Solway Frith, 239, 240. 

Solway Moss, Battle there, 46. 

Stations, 19. 

-South of the Wall, 189. 

—-as they occur, enumerated, 253. 

Stanwix, fifteenth Station, 220, 225. 

Stone, 93. 

-of the Roman Wall, its nature, 247. 

Stone Gap, I99. 

Sutton Coldfield, 89. 

Sword, that which killed Becket, 35* 

Tarraby, 219. 

Theodosius, 27. . 

Thirl well Castle, 198. 

Thrimby, 257. 

Throck low, 14ft. 

Tippal River, 198. 

Towertay, lbb. 

Trees on the Wall, 150. 

Tumulus, 195. 

Tunocelum, eighteenth Station, 239. 

Turrets, 21. 

Twice Brewed, 178, 181. 

Tyne river, 199. 

Ulls-Water, 119. 

Vindobala, fourth Station, 147- 
Vindolana, ninth Station, 188. 

Wall, height, 18. 

-thickness, 18, 139, 144, 159; 19^, 201, 

Wall’s 


1 






2J2 


INDEX, 


Wall’s End; first Station, 12fi. 

Wall bottle, 145. 

Wallbv, 217. 

Wall Fell, ltfl. 

Wall-green, 192. 

'Wall Head, 213. 

Wall-houses, 151- 
Wall Town, 195. 

Walton Crag, 196. 

-High, 208. 

Walvvick Chesters, sixth Station, ](>3, lfi4* 
Warden, 41. 

Warrington, 95. 

Watch Cross, fourteenth Station, 189,191, 214- 
Wheelwright, Rev. Michael, his civility to 
the Author, 219. 

Windermere, 112. 

Works, measured, 136. 

-perfect, 156. 

Wormanby, 2 26. 


THE END. 



Nichols, 3on, and ftentley, Printers, 
Red Lion Passage, Fleet-street, Louduu. 




















































. 



































6 3 7 



■ 













r' *v 




0° * " 'p s* * 

- oa s 

. 

v*»« 0 ’* /',.o *V» 7 T> 

* CV V * ° ' 

t 'P, . y 



~0 C* j> * ^ ^ \ ''' •-<■' * r\ / 

'> *' 1 ’' > s' ’ ' '*'% ' 9M0 / 

aTV *&4 g 5 , * , A- V -~- 

•A £V tdKT • ^<. .. r\ \ ^ ,A \ Q 

° «> v u 
z 



c>~ * 

° 

C jV J> * 
aV 'JV ® 



.A-' ' f ./> o y// wv 

,* '• ^ V 

\\ A .1.., '••>* 



:? 'sho’' >, »,,,»' ^O 1 =■ *aT°’ V# 

. v, ' /\ ' x * * ■ 1 i r* 

^ </> i\V Or ^ 


•>u C’^ * v^' 4 ’ — * *?' n o 

\ v -a , l % V « ,f ^ ^ 

tV </> & <* vL -P> 

; ** ^ «** 

<* * / s .A 

O N C -<* 1 


Y * 0 





. , , , V/, y 0 , x * ,aO <C, v , * , s 

*»V * ,% c° .«■ °JL C ♦, \ '* 



sv* V 

O 0 





V '- s I * 1 • V ^- ^ 

„ -u ' •■■!* W,* * 0< ?* 

s' c <o y VN>3 ^ * ^ * <> 

9,Al '\ 0NO v V V •*, % —•>%••, 

S \ ° %*W$ *' -$ \. % W ' : M •• W> ^ o 

o.< %'°v */ c on c, B ; 

^ I v , V ?^ - ^ ’ _V 

^ z . e -^. kV ^ fc . , *- t » 4J A z 



V 

O0 


+ 


° ^ ^ 


Y ® 0 


*“ r\ ’ ^ '* \v- ^ 

S ^° ... %.'*:■■>'>'<&■' 


V \\ 


5*, ■ "^ ' r- 

</» (C v « 


'.If; 

«* •■ ^ ,v*, J/ b ’ ° “■ * 0 ^ c 0 ^ « « -Zf, 

* + v'X 1 Y 1 o f Y » ^ ^ 

^ 4.X ^ jt;- '*p -s v <*. ^5 'v^ - r 

TA S 6 •* V O ^ 

OQ <■ 



* <, s 




>■ ^ 





n H 


■1 Kl 0 









CL ✓ «, oP j, * 

O <y ■> cl » >>V 

, +t* 9 •} K 0 \V & „ 

r- 


r CV c oN c « <5> ' ** S \. 

s A \ 

** aa 







u* % 

! -4 «v ^ • 

• * aC' V < * 

. V ' A \ W 

< = ^ - *A V* 





r\ 

,„•' * 9 ' 

& s"L’« "o 

•S' ^ <* \jfRSJ3s^ " -^, 

„<; 7^,^,^ * -V. \\‘ 

°tr* ;c\^ 



00 C y>> 

■ 

\* N ^ d * 

4 _r-S^f\ ^ 




, ®*.'*»:«•’' .**■ . "W 

r */ C k \ « 

** 


■*> ^ 

^ v <<-, 







a> ,/> 

AV '/\ 

-<J— > ^ ^ 17 5? 

** s ' , X \ X ,m. y <‘ * 

/ ^ rr-l". °o] 


■%. V* 


\ 0< =<. 




'•L . ■ Sa 




^‘^•’V ^ v.rf/ 







vOo 

a*' /dfe*'. '*« 

AV . * 1 ' < ~o r\v A k - 0 K C . * * a\ 

I *jMtVtk \ ' 0° . t ^y. V *+ -V s .'■* 

w r^^la; +*■ v 









"</' v y 

<p ,y\' 


V V % * * 0 A *> 81 t O> s " 

^ -.78 



, <, 0 > ! * , ' •. ' -^ ^ N ^ 'Vv , . ■ > Oc- 

V v' L’*», "> "’ *'■•'*-%. “ N ° v,V^ 

* <r> .\X' ♦ oA • • 4 r A ^ ♦ *• ..... ^. * c f.f 







cP * 

G o> c " f % *+ . &\y U c« n ^ ^ 














